Breezy_Pete

And really logical for at least a few. The EGR is fully electric, not vacuum operated. That hose goes to the airbox, conveying a small quantity of filtered air to the valve. If it's disconnected, it simply conveys unfiltered air instead; nothing in or beyond the EGR valve could detect this change. The fault code, if there was one, may have pointed to an EGR fault (which are not uncommon), but clearing it - which he probably did - may be enough to prevent recurrence of any such fault for some time. Garages and mechanics like to change as many parts as they can convince you might be worthwhile, because they get paid both in the mark-up on the parts and the labour to fit them. Throwing away working parts and replacing them with new ones that may well be lower quality is dumb. Your current fault seems completely inconsistent with one or more failed coilpacks. If you mean that literally, then every battery ever glanced at is probably 'looking OK' unless one of the connections is actually dangling off the side. Yes, but primarily to check that neither is completely loose, which might occur by forgetfulness during the work on the loom and coilpack. That would be highly consistent with 'all or nothing' type behaviour you're seeing. Very unlikely, I think, but if you have the means to check its state of charge (voltage before starting the engine), do so.

Hello Briskodians, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to a few Skoda models, as well as one or two VWs. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y2959802 Fitted to later Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. 6Y1959801 Fitted to Very early Mk2 Fabia and Roomster until end of October 2007; as well as 9N3 Polo and a few Transporters. (And some late 9N Polos I have learned). Private Message me a VIN if you'd like me to check whether your car has this part number fitted. (As described a few posts below, either of the above part numbers + suffix A on the end can also be repaired. Also happy to try with units of the subsequent generation, with part numbers 6Q1959801F, G, H, or J.) Note that both of these are driver's side units, the difference in part numbering is due to the orientation/positioning of the motor module on the panels they mount to. These parts suffer a type of intermittent, progressive failure where they 'sometimes work fine, sometimes don't work at all'. Eventually they just completely stop working. This is what I can fix for you. I will test your faulty unit, confirm the problem, repair it to full working order and post it back to you for £59, total. You'd post it to me - less than 1Kg so can be sent for around £4.25 on a tracked24 service purchased online at Royal Mail. I would aim to turn it round within 2 days of receipt, and send it back tracked24. This is the what the part looks like: Central locking via remote will still work in the absence of the window module, so you will be able to secure the car as normal while it is away. Obviously you'll want to ensure that both front windows are fully shut, as in the absence of the driver's side module the passenger side one will not operate. New units are no longer available from Skoda/VW, and ebay 2nd hand ones with these part numbers tend to go for big bucks. I will charge you just £59 including return postage. Cheers, Pete Edit 30/08/25: To get in touch, please click on my username which will take you to my profile, with contact info.

Despite Ross-Tech themselves talking about VCDS reading absolute pressure, I have reason to believe it is based on a misreading of some VW group published info, and has no basis in fact. Empty systems (or sensors in open air) read 0.0 bar in my experience, which they would not if sensor G65 read absolute pressure (they'd say 1.0). A compressor shutdown code of 0 means it has not been actively shut down. If you do take it to a garage, checking high and low side pressures with system running should take a matter of minutes (single figures) and involve only connecting a gauge set to the two ports.

You can read (with VCDS in minutes) the pressure read by sensor G65 in one of the measuring blocks of the HVAC module. Do so at ambient temperature with ignition on, engine off, engine/bay all at ambient temperature.

Well done on the test. Also glad it's running well, and efficiently for you.

I think it sounds neat. Care with hot fluid handling being necessary though. Please be very careful if you have pets (or neighbours do). Do not allow them anywhere near open containers of antifreeze, or spillages/puddles. Lethal if ingested. May be worth prior checking that your radiator fan(s) work too, if trying it in high ambient temperatures. People generally do it cold, and generally fail to change a significant proportion of the total; and indeed it's easy to create temporary air pockets. These usually resolve themselves during a subsequent drive.

This wasn't a fix for anything. The EGR will work fine with that rubber pipe unconnected. Sheer luck (or temperature change or some other factor) that things started working better after this. I don't think this latest fault sounds like it's related to the ignition coil wiring, it sounds more 'global'. Checking battery clamps for tightness would be a first easy step.

Up to date test manual available here: MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Our Fabia doesn't have an alarm at all, but does have the little flashing light when locked with the remote. Is it maybe an indication of 'deadlocked'? Possible fault in the lock unit with the wire or solder joint at pin 5 of the lock unit, or the earth wire/solder joint on pin 7.

Check carefully the joints of the hard plastic sections of the brake servo vacuum hose. They split and leak air, making the MAP sensor give readings to the engine ECU that confuse the poor thing.

No.

Both of those codes relate to sensor 1, according to my Google. Part number seems to be 036 906 262G. Probably stamped into the original sensor somewhere if you want to confirm. Check wiring and connector for damage before buying anything though. It plugs into the wiring loom somewhere just in front of the starter motor.

I think your car must be a Mk1 by the way, as BBZ didn't make it into the mk2 model range, I don't think.

There aren't any bank 2 sensors, there is a bank 1 sensor 1 just at the top of the cylindrical part of the exhaust manifold/pre-cat: Bank 1 sensor 2 is just after the main catalytic converter, further back under the car.

Fuse 9 powers the heaters in both sensor 1 and sensor 2, so removing the fuse should generate faults relating to both heaters. Pin 2 of sensor 1 (and pin 1 of sensor 2) should have 12V with ignition on. The control of the heating is done by the ECU earthing pin 1 (pin 2 for sensor 2) for varying proportions of time (pulse width modulation). Could you re-check the connectivity of pin 2 of sensor 1 connector? I think you should see a few Ohms from that pin to ECU connector pin 63 when sensor 2 is connected normally. You are effectively measuring the resistance of the heater inside sensor 2 by measuring this path, as well as confirming the connections in and out of that heater.

Mach-E Front Motor: Sandy is Blown Away by Great Design - YouTube Same car, same reviewer; sorry if that's too much for your prejudicial, binary perception to cope with.

I'm going to quote it directly just in case the link is causing trouble, then I'm out. Re-reading that, below, I wonder if the first instance of the word 'following' is the problem, I'm going to say that is a mistake, and the info makes better sense without that word. [I have struck through the spurious word in the quote below] E10 petrol is cleared for use in all following ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exception: Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer.

Did you not see in the post I linked that unless you have a Felicia 1.3 you don't have to worry?

Not sure where his source was for this info, but it may reassure you:

All seems OK to to me, with the following observations: I think maybe you labelled the two tables wrongly, the first one is with fuse out, the second with fuse in? It makes sense that way, because with fuse in and ignition on, there are pathways for connectivity 'backwards' through the fuse and battery to the power rails. These connections don't matter. It does prove that the connection from oxygen sensor connector pin 2 to fuse 9 is intact though. Your connector pin numbering for the ECU connector seems wrong with the 12345 section mirrored with respect to the remaining pins, it should look like this: Just by correcting that, everything seems OK, because the only connection that looks wrong is Oxygen sensor connector pin 1 to ECU pin 2, which should instead be ECU pin 5. This comes out OK once you correct your numbering on your drawing.

It'll be a vent temperature sensor, I should think? What's on the other side of the board? Look for a round hole that that o-ring will just jam into. Or a smaller hole that the board and the nearest white plastic will go into, possibly with some rectangular holes that the bayonet catches will go into; possibly a push in and twist to lock thing? o-ring may be a face seal rather than a radial seal.

I can read it fine, because it's beautifully clear! Will check over everything this evening, comparing with my car for anything that seems surprising.

Often seems to be that pin, you may have seen a video of me wobbling it in another thread. 20200910_155143.mp4

I thought that's probably what you meant, didn't want to assume though.

What's "I level", a typo or a real thing?