Breezy_Pete

UK MOT lighting stuff: 4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment - MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles - Guidance - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

What about unplugging the connector of the temp sensor you've replaced and see which temperature reading changes/disappears on your scanner?

OK, now unplug the connector of the one you think might be sensor 3, and see if it now reads wildly different, or says error or something.

You could unplug one at a time, go for a drive and see what fault codes get created each time? Different code, wrong sensor to replace. Just an idea.

No, I think they are just using a misleading title for the EZ chill product?

So you can buy (from Halfords) STP EZ chill which I'm told isn't R134a even though the title on the web page says that term. You can't buy (from Halfords) the STP Auto freeze that is covered by that MSDS, unless I'm continuing to be daft with their search box. That linked document is from Jan 2018, so may not reflect the current formulation of STP Auto Freeze, I suggest, wherever you might be able to get that from.

13.1V is a very low charging voltage for a 12V lead acid battery, 13.8 or more is usually applied, for even trickle-charging, I think? In other words, it will only recharge very slowly at that voltage.

Halfords don't seem to currently sell either that or the EZ chill, unless I'm being daft? UK Site Navigation | Halfords UK Edit: looks like I was. And their search is a bit crappy EZ Chill Auto Air Conditioning Recharge - Gas R134A | Halfords UK

That's not STP EZ chill though?

Checking the strip fuse is just a case of looking at it, and if you're not sure whether or not it's cracked, give it a gentle poke downwards in the middle with a finger. If it's cracked, it'll break in two and become obvious. Checking the battery light is shown here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/401778-battery-light-and-associated-problems/

See here: 00301 - ABS Return Flow Pump (V39) - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA It'll be strip fuse no.6 above the battery, unless the car is a late one (e.g. 2006>) It's worth answering my question about the battery light even if you believe 'voltage is good'; it takes approx. 1 second to check. There's a very common charging system fault that can be diagnosed with this simple check.

Oh, in that case it's probably a broken fuse. What year was your car made?

Possibly something like the CAN bus connection not working due to a wiring/connection fault. As I understand it, that would only affect the speed-sensitivity of the steering assistance, which might not be obvious if it defaulted to high assistance all the time. Or a low voltage condition. Does the battery light illuminate when you turn the ignition to the position where various warning lights go on and off?

Didn't work for me?

@KeithCheetham have you looked (all) around yours with a UV torch? In case there's more leaks than just the condenser. Ideal time to replace any o-rings which might be starting to go. Will your new condenser not come with new o-rings though?

Cool, well done. It's the evaporator in the cabin, condenser is the one in front of the engine coolant rad.

@JoeF You didn't answer my question about whether you'd looked at all the other potential leak sites? It's easy to find something that looks bad and think "Aha, found it!"; but there may be others or even worse ones.

Try measuring the dc resistance of the solenoid valve. Maybe it has failed open circuit?

Plumber's Gold has never let me down on sealing tasks. If the leak site was spotted via wheel arch liner, I'd think that full removal of that will give you sufficient access.

Can you not return the EZ chill containers for your tenner unless they are empty?

Unrelated fault, I think. Recirc motors/potentiometers tend to wear out over time due to the fact that they are commanded to shut the flap to outside air every time reverse gear is selected. But they don't seem to be designed to be robust enough to survive such frequent use.

No worries. In that case I think the unit you've found is faulty.

Or did you mean that you measured 12V between pins 2 & 4?

The feed to fuse 39, and on to this unit, pin 2, is via the so-called 'load reduction relay', which is definitely energised when engine is running. I didn't want to take the chance of suggesting checking it with just 'ignition on', in case that relay isn't energised then. Odd that you're seeing 12V on pin 4 though, as that's supposed to be the earth connection.

Fuse 39 feeds that black/red wire at pin 2, so see if you can measure 12V on one or other side of the fuse socket when engine is running (or both sides of it if you can measure with fuse in place).