Breezy_Pete

Dunno about priming but I can't imagine you'd have any trouble with fault codes.

What are the last 6 digits of your VIN? Actually, don't bother. Only the rack and angle sensor changed during model year 2003, pump is same before/after; as sepulchrave says.

Find the oil pressure switch and disconnect it. Then take it for a short drive, check that you get a low pressure warning. This is to see if the previous owner has somehow disabled the warning system to conceal an oil pressure problem.

It is for a given model, https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2014-753/6/615-615060/ 253mm here.

Try knocking that middle bush inwards a little first, to break the stiction between it and the outer one, then it'll probably pull out easily. When you do get the glass out, take a photo of the area on the glass that these bushes pass through. If it's exactly the same arrangement as the mk1 rears, there's a trick/shortcut to putting the glass back in.

Looks to me like the type of retention system on the rear door glass of a mk1. To remove the glass you find a long screw that will just go into the inner plastic tube (M5 on a mk1), screw it in until it holds, then use it to pull out the tube. The outer plastic tube may then be loose enough to pull out with some long-nose pliers or similar, then the glass will be free to lift out.

Partially correct Ken. Sump sensors were installed on Mk1 Fabias, but not ones sold in the UK market. And they are oil level and temperature sensors, not oil quality sensors. Just service the car every year, or every 10 000 miles or so if that's sooner, and use 505 01 oil which is generally cheaper than 507 00.

Item 4 here, I think door handle, exterior - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2006 year] (7zap.com) N90846502 Only 14mm long Any VW-group dealership should be able to get them for you. Or any scrappie with a mk1 Fabia. Ensure you use the correct XZN bit to fasten/unfasten these. They aren't Torx.

Do the outer ends have any VW group part numbers on them? I presume the rack doesn't or you would have quoted it? Guessing that the whole rack including outer ends is a replacement for the factory fitted set, and that all the bits are different lengths to the original bits, but the totals add up.

Let us know how you get on, and sorry to have been the predictor of bad news.

Sounds very similar to this thread? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495675-air-conditioning-stops-working-after-100km-driving/

I'll be interested to hear whether it was really fuse 61 or 52 that got changed. Both are 15 Amp rated so when the fault is fixed it needs to be put back to that, whichever fuse.

A 2003 64bhp will be code AZQ, so I fluked the correct wiring diagram. BME engine replaced it in 2005 or late 2004, I forget exactly. The spark plug needs to be removed and checked. Coilpacks aren't especially expensive, £20-odd quid for a mid-price one I expect, genuine from dealer will be a chunk more, and probably no better. 036 905 715F is the part number recommended in the parts catalogue. Plug/Wiring it's probably OK to harvest a second-hand connector plug with a few inches of wire at a local scrappie, and crimp or solder the connections to your existing loom beyond the damaged parts. If you read the part number off the plug (possibly one of the undamaged ones if No.3 has melted in the relevant area) you may find new or 2nd hand connectors on ebay, possibly complete with wire tails.

First diagram I've looked at (AZQ engine from Feb 2003) suggests that fuse 52 should have failed first, has that been checked? It supplies coilpacks and a switched power feed to the engine ECU. Doubt there's anything major wrong.

Wow, dramatic pics! I'm a little surprised that there isn't a fuse that supplies just the coilpacks (will look it up if you tell me year of car and engine code (AZQ or BME?). Any fluids evident down the hole the coilpack fits in?

The part numbers ending 702 are for the right hand side belt, your required part number will end 701, followed by a letter suffix. three-point safety belt - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2004 year] (7zap.com) It's not a yellow car by any chance? Three-point automatic seat yellow/satin black 6Y0857701A UWN | oemVWshop.com

505 01 or 507 00, no oils will be both, as far as I know. No other details need your attention.

As a local hero of mine recently said: "The regulatory ratchet never stops clicking, does it?" If you read the linked article you'll see that initially it can be switched off at the start of a journey, or over-ridden on the go with the accelerator pedal, so not necessary to tinker with any software.

For a mk2 Fabia or for a 2011 Octavia as suggested by your profile? If it's for your Octavia, is that a mk1 or mk2? 7th and 8th digits of VIN will be 1U if the former, 1Z if the latter. Welcome to Briskoda by the way.

Relay position 1, nearest the middle of the fusebox under the bonnet. Doubt there's any relevance to the other fault codes, but who knows. Check fuse 10 in the same fusebox for looseness or dirty/corroded contacts as it feeds the relay coil. Purge valve slight misbehaviour or hose leakage is a possibility for the observed symptoms/other codes. Another is brake servo vacuum hose. Always worth a look/feel, in case there are splits in the hard plastic sections of the pipe run, at junctions with other items like non-return valve. VW group don't cover themselves in glory by the design/materials of these, unless planned obsolescence is the intention...

Hi, and welcome to the forum. I'll give that a go. Bear with me. Symptoms other than the code?

Hmm. You know that manual A/C systems in some (most?) Skodas have have had variable-displacement compressors for more than 20 years, right? So they can be 'partially on', in exactly the same way as climate control compressors (which may well be the very same units).

The viscosity is guaranteed to be suitable by the given oil meeting the relevant VW group spec. A 2006 car will not be compatible with 508 00 or 509 00 specs (which is what you mean by 0W20 I guess?). It's tempting to think that higher number VW spec means better, and assume backward compatibility, but neither is necessarily true.

If there are any straight-line tool paths, you can probably do it remotely with two long-handled screwdrivers. Once the one is inserted (but not yet twisted) in the gap shown in my vid, the 'push on pressure' could be exerted on the wiring-exit side of the connector with another screwdriver. Then - while maintaining the push-on pressure - the twisty action on the first could make the latch click. I have a feeling that once you've heard the click, you can release both 'hands' and then pull the connector off without it re-latching. The screwdrivers used could have whatever length handles necessary to get into clear space (if there is any!) for hands. Can anyone confirm the 'not re-latching' bit of that from memory, or trying out? I have a feeling that I wasn't aware of that until recently, and it makes a big difference if true. Can't quite summon the energy to wander down the garden to refresh my memory.

Sep's dead right about the vital 'push on' pressure, as there's a rubber seal inside that needs to be compressed before the latch is free to move. When it does move, there is a reasonably noticeable click noise, just discernible in the video. I find that a flat blade in the gap shown, twisted gently to expand the gap slightly but not excessively is ideal for making the latch open without risk of breaking any plastic, once that 'push-on pressure' is present. Access to achieve all of this will be your main issue, I suspect. 20210718_164741.mp4