Breezy_Pete

The feed to fuse 39, and on to this unit, pin 2, is via the so-called 'load reduction relay', which is definitely energised when engine is running. I didn't want to take the chance of suggesting checking it with just 'ignition on', in case that relay isn't energised then. Odd that you're seeing 12V on pin 4 though, as that's supposed to be the earth connection.

Fuse 39 feeds that black/red wire at pin 2, so see if you can measure 12V on one or other side of the fuse socket when engine is running (or both sides of it if you can measure with fuse in place).

Ah, there's a connector on the back! Pin 2 of this connector:

Probably not, as the device I'm referring to has a total of 7 wires going to it! It's shown in the wiring diagrams for Climatronic as J126 "fresh air blower control unit" but can't be the same thing as that. Where does that connect to? If it's an inline connection, what colour are the wires of the mating connector? I seem to not know what I'm talking about. See if you can find a thing anywhere nearby with 7 wires.

Does it get 12V power on the red/black wire (pin 2 of connector) with engine running?

That was easier than I expected. No idea whether your manual has same info, have a look: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/489235-radio-issue/?do=findComment&comment=5493895

I seem to remember this coming up before (for some or other Skoda model) and it turned out there were options in some menu of the radio system that just needed re-setting to what they were pre-battery change. Choices of when the radio was powered on and off. If I can remember what model/forum it was and some suitable search term, I'll link you to the thread.

Both Xgemone and NickolasCastagna appear to be spammers/spambots. Reported as such.

It is where it is. It's where it's designed to have the pressure monitored by the pressure switch and where the test gauge is designed to be plugged in: Quoting from the link I posted on previous page: Test preparations – Remove oil pressure switch -F1- → Chapter. – Screw the connection of the oil pressure tester -V.A.G 1342- into the hole for the oil pressure switch. So I don't see much validity to what the garage are saying. Check the oil temperature next time you've out on a decent length run. Do you know how to get this display up, if it isn't shown all the time?

He already changed the switch, I think I read. Not sure where else one could plug a test gauge into other than where the switch is normally fitted?

6R0611701H for the flexi hoses. Has he not got a steel spare he could fit that would give access to the hub nut for loosening?

It does look well below the 0.8 that the test suggests is minimum at idle; depending on gauge accuracy and zeroing.

Yep. PN: 03L957147A

You're looking for a 3-way connector with blue, black and brown wires in positions 1, 2, 3. Might be hiding under the upper cambelt cover if it's not anywhere readily visible.

OK, so what was the pressure at idle? Maybe on diesels the 'below 1500, ignore' threshold thing I mentioned is set lower. Would make sense as they generally operate at lower rpms. Something else to check before getting too worried - is the engine running hotter than it should be? Difficult to tell from the coolant temp gauge as they use 'customer soothing software' to make the needle reluctant to move off the middle. Oil temperature readings may give a clue though, see what they're doing in various driving conditions. Might be something easy like a dodgy radiator fan. Hotter oil = thinner oil = lower pressure.

Suffix A version was superseded by suffix E on 1st April 2010, apparently. https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/06h103495a.html#replacements That was replaced by suffix AC on 1st April 2014. https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/06h103495e.html#replacements

How does this soot get to the valve if there's no gas flow because the valve is closed?

@xman look back upthread at one of your recent posts, where you referred to a 'loss of dramatic oil pressure.

Please don't divorce Brisky, we'd miss you too much.

I'd've thought the label would be somewhere it could be seen with just door card removed, but could be wrong. I count 7 different possible part numbers for RHD, depending on date of manufacture and equipment options. single parts whitch are not included with the par... - Yeti(YET) [EUROPA 2012 year] (7zap.com) Guess if you're buying new from a dealership you can let them sort that side of things though.

Slight misting is not a problem at all. Hence no test failure. Clean up and monitor over the coming months/year.

If the pressure in the pipe is above atmospheric, then atmospheric pressure air will/can not be drawn in. Seems obvious to me. Bye.

You're very welcome, sorry I couldn't get there more quickly and efficiently for you both.

Yep, in that case it's the one marked 100. The diagram I posted shows (all of) the fitting position numbers, many of which will be/are unoccupied on any given model variant. The wiring diagrams are organised by engine code, which is why I needed that, but they only show fitting position of the relays (9 for BNV glowplug relay), not the markings such as 100 or 53 that may be printed on them. Has the row of strip fuses in the fuseholder above the battery been checked?

The suggested pressure for doing it as read from @BerkCo's first image is 2 bar... Seems ample to me to prevent any backflow. It would be good to see a German or Czech language version of the erWin info, as the confusion over the bleeding order may be simply translation error? Anyone from those places with the relevant info reading?