Breezy_Pete

Pressure switches can fail by leaking through themselves, after the diaphragm fails. that's why I suggested examining it locally. Might not leak much, but shouldn't leak at all if intact.

Examine the pressure switch for signs of oil leakage there.

How many miles done in its life so far?

Bloody good prices! Where was this, exactly? Or did you miss the leading 1...

I know nothing about what voltages to expect, except that the position feedback potentiometer has 5V (pin 1) and earth (pin 3) connections, so its output on pin 2 can be expected to vary somewhere within those extremes, as the flap moves. The end positions (maximum open and minimum open) are generally what are memorised by the engine ECU during adaptation of a new valve.

New matrix very unlikely to be required, I'd guess.

Here's a thread from a while back that you advised on. PLEASE HELP skoda fabia vrs leaking pics inside - Skoda Fabia Mk I - BRISKODA

The TDIs also have alloy pipes leading to that connector, or instead of that connector. More trouble than the rubber pipes ISTR, to the point that some convert to rubber.

That's the position feedback signal from the flap, so more likely an issue at that end, or setting-up problem. ECUs tend to be extremely reliable. What 'computer' is telling you about this voltage range, do you mean VCDS? Try adaptation or basic setting of the flap; whichever is recommended when replacing.

If the engine has an oil level/temperature sensor, it will probably be quite evident by looking at the bottom of the sump.

More likely a problem with the connections; seem to remember they're troublesome on the TDIs.

Or in this view... So front row leftmost is 32, back row 2nd from left is 15.

I'm in Oxfordshire so you'd have to post it, but I could post it back same day as I get it. Pins 15 and 32 of the green connector are the only relevant joints to check/reflow for the fuel gauge, I think.

I find just removing all the rust until you get back to the original flat surfaces is all that's necessary. It doesn't seem to return that quickly either. I don't know of any shims that fit, but I've never looked. Was this Polo from the same point in history, approximately, and did it have FSIII calipers? 9N Polo doesn't show any such shims: disc brake - Polo/Derby/Vento-IND(PO) [EUROPA 2002 year] (7zap.com)

Did you try reflowing any connector joints? I can tell you the relevant pin numbers if it helps; or even do it for you if you can be without the cluster for a few days. Don't think it's plug and play, there may be some immobiliser problems but not too sure.

All the parts differences ought to be findable in the various diagrams here that relate to the three variants AMF, BNM and BNV. I don't have enough interest to look for you. engine Fabia (FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com)

Skoda Catalog [europa] (7zap.com)

This thing here, with the wires.

The temperature sensor is read by the engine ECU, which then forwards the data by CAN messages to any other modules which care; the instrument cluster, obviously, but probably others. Does the gauge sit solidly at 90/vertical once the engine is up to full operating temperature?

All mk1 Fabias use the same engine coolant temperature sensor, part number 06A 919 501A. Have you checked for broken wiring, or dirty contacts in the loom connector? Non-genuine can be had very cheap, but have mixed reviews. (Claimed) Genuine one here including o-ring and clip for just over £20 which seems good value, especially if it isn't 'fake genuine'. RRP from Skoda considerably more. GENUINE VW AUDI SEAT SKODA GENUINE 2 PIN WATER COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR 06A919501A 714819415398 | eBay

Did the wiring look OK as you plugged it into the new v157/G336? You could check for 5V on pin 1 (yellow/grey) relative to pin 3 (brown/green) with at least ignition on. If that's OK, test continuity of the three wires to the engine ECU, #2 on 5-way to 27 at ECU (purple/black wire); #4 on 5-way to 35 at ECU (brown/green); #5 to 50 (red/green).

Obviously. I think Truckbus and I were responding mainly to Expatman's assertion that once an engine is bust, the car is history.

Just stick "CBZB engine" into the ebay search box. Loads on there I would think. It's actually not that hard to swap whole engines in/out of cars, certainly less work than trying to repair one that requires a big stripdown.

Old news, as demonstrated by root-toot's links.

Having looked at wiring info and parts info, it does look like your car is equipped with two dual-speed fans, wired in parallel. They should both start up in low speed after a short time once A/C is enabled. Is it the Climatronic system or manual A/C? I suspect the former? To confirm low speed function/disfunction you can unplug the loom connector from the radiator thermoswitch, and link pins 1 and 2, red/white to red wires. As long as the relevant fuse is intact (giving 12V on pin 2), then both fans should start up at low speed.