Breezy_Pete

I don't know what is available in there, doubtful that it will have output tests that are physically/electronically carried out by another module, but not sure. If the coding for either module had accidentally got changed to 'no rear wiper fitted' that might explain things.

It looks like the signals from the switches get processed OK by the steering column ECU; but the relays that operate the wipers and washers are in the Onboard Supply control unit (J519/module 09). When you're successfully activating the functions with VCDS, is that via output tests in J519/module 09? Or are you achieving that via module 16? Wondering if J519 is getting the correct info, but something else is inhibiting it from carrying out the outputs? Has the coding/adaptations of any unit been altered recently, or any battery changes/power interruptions?

Which ones? In terms of VW group specs?

Do you mean the steering column electronics control unit? That's what the wiper switches seem to (only) connect into.

If you look on erWin at the approved oils list (you'll have to register, but that's free), every single oil approved to 508 00 is also approved to 509 00. Interestingly there are some new grades I was not aware of, 508 88 and 509 99, which are all 5W40 grades. Possibly for annual/fixed interval servicing of recent cars??? (Pure speculation on my part) Aaaannnnd a 511 00, which has a mixture of 0W40s and 5W40s in its list. Things are getting even more complex! Not sure if any of that is relevant to the OP of this thread though.

1cm is a lot of extra oil; you should remove some of that to get the level at or below maximum on the dipstick. You didn't maybe mean 1mm? But I doubt that has anything to do with the oil level warning light, the loose connector is much more likely to be causing that.

If the broken part is in the wiring connector (probable) rather than the sensor, you could replace that connector. There will be a part number written on it somewhere in tiny characters. Or you could maybe find a way to fix it in the fully-engaged position. Not much to attach it to though unless you use superglue or something.

That is the one. First thing is to check that the connector is pushed on fully; it looks like it may not be? The connector latch may be broken if it pushes further on but does not 'click' into position.

Oil level sensor is shown as item 37 here: cylinder block with pistons; oil sump - Superb(SUP) [EUROPA 2002 year] (7zap.com)

Which engine does your car have? You will need to look from under the car to see the sensor in the oil sump, if there is one.

Could be the oil level sensor, if the oil warning light is yellow, rather than red. There is a fuse for that, No. 5, but it also feeds several other things so is unlikely to be at fault. Check the wiring near the sensor in the sump for any breakages.

Hi, I have exactly this engine in a Polo, so I should be able to make some comparison measurements. The car is not road legal at the moment, but I can run it in the garden. I guess there's nothing obvious like a coolant temperature sensor reading -40°C at ambient temperature or anything? Have you checked the PCV valve diaphragm by feeling for suction at the pressure equalising port?

There's a valve in there which should close off and retain the system contents as you unscrew the sensor. It probably leaks a tad as you undo it, just as a tyre valve does when disconnecting pump.

Earlier (pre mid-04, window modules with 6Q.... part numbers) cars had units that connected into the CAN bus so probably had a bit of control from more central stuff. After that, the modules with part numbers starting 6Y... are more 'stand alone', or actually 'stand together' cos the only data connection they have is a one-wire LIN bus connection between just driver's and passenger side modules. There are a couple of signal/status connections to other modules but no central control. My impression is that this makes them less reliable. The wiring and connectors are different, so without considerable work you can't just fit the older style modules, sadly.

Oemwolf.com is a handy site for looking at what's been superseded by what. I checked your old part number on there and it changed to suffix CN in two steps, with something like suffix BB in the middle.

As sepulchrave suggests, it may well be OK to extend your search to include BBY and maybe even AUA engines from Fabias, assuming that you're OK to swap any ancillary bits off your BKY that differ. As far as I know all AUA/BBY engined Fabias, at least in the UK market, were paired with automatic gearboxes, so the block should be the right variant. Not sure how much is different between BBY and BKY, but patient trawling through the parts catalogue could probably answer that. Not enough to make it difficult, I suspect. Does your BKY have an EGR valve? Later ones didn't. And what's the problem with the old engine?

You're wrong, see here Engine specs help - Engine, Transmission and Exhaust - Club Polo

ETKA gives 036100104GX for the block to suit auto applications, 036100104SX for manual. Some piccies of the SX from 4 angles and the GX just from the back. Backs certainly look different.

I had a great engine from these guys earlier this year, not sure what they may have available? Probably worth giving them a call even if they aren't currently listing one of what you need. Forest Auto Salvage cars and parts | eBay Stores

That's even got caps to top up the electrolyte levels by the looks of it, proper old school.

Make sure you've definitely got the right size disc on the far end of the Gen2 arrangement, smaller one for extraction, bigger one for refitting!

I guess you mean item 27 here?: gear housing; 6-speed manual transmission - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2005 year] (7zap.com) Looks like you'd have to measure it to get the right part number, unless it has a part number on the side you can see?

I think you'll be OK with the combination of the hard pull from the tooling plus a hammer-blow to shock it free.

Near-simultaneous calculator bashing!

Just did some sums to work out the equivalence versus CO2 emissions from normal driving. To start off with, I'd say it's fairer to imagine you'd only release 50-100g of R134a if you did illegally vent a non-working system, because if your system contained more than that, it would probably still be working to some extent. Let's go with 100g. So an equivalent of 130kg CO2 now. Let's pick 40mpg as a decent real-world average for a petrol car, apparently that equates to about 170g/km of CO2 emissions, or 270ish g per mile. So for the 130kg CO2 equivalent R134a release you would actually travel only 130000/270 = 480 miles Doesn't seem quite so dramatic now, although I'm in no way condoning deliberate release of any global warming gas for zero benefit, as the OP's original question suggested he was considering. What does seem dramatic is chucking out somewhere around 100kg of CO2 per tank of petrol used, tank size dependent obviously! Sounds mad considering a (40 litre) tankful of petrol only weighs about 30kg. Oxygen is heavy stuff! That's about 55 000 litres of pure CO2 gas volume at 20°C, I think?