Breezy_Pete

The wiper motor does have a bimetallic strip type thermal trip near to the brush connections, but I would expect that to self-reset fairly quickly after the motor stops, and the stalk is put back to the off position if it were that triggering.

Yep. Could do, if you mean pull fuse, put link wire in between connector pins 3 & 4, then refit fuse to test? Don't be surprised by a little arcing and sparking, especially on breaking the circuit, if the motor runs.

Yeah try it when they stop working next, you're effectively 'externalising' the relay operation by linking wires, so if it's the motor at fault, it still won't work by linking wires, but if it's the relay, it probably will. The wipers won't park by linking as described, they'll just keep running for as long as the link is there. Can't be done as an 'on the road' fix though, because pulling that connector does deprive the control unit of its main earth, so do it with engine off, keys out of ignition to minimise 'system confusion'. Have a look what access is like to the unit/connector. On mk1 Fabia it's a pain to get at cos of dash undercover trim, but on 9N Polo and I seem to remember mk2 Fabia it's not as covered up? I did try it on my Polo (same wiring, same control unit as mk1 and early mk2 Fabia) this morning and it worked. I got the speeds the wrong way round, it's pin 3 to pin 4 that gives normal speed, and that would be all you'd need to try I think. I see from your intro that the car's done quite a lot of miles so it might just be the motor. Only unexpected thing on mine was that the radio came on as soon as I unplugged that connector, off again when refitted. Haven't worked that out yet.

Best of luck old pal.

Thanks for the good wishes Rob. All OK here thanks. Wasn't meaning to suggest Australia was beyond beyond, just that erWin was the result (AiUI) of EU anti-monopoly laws, so might not have applicability/access worldwide. How many electric windows on your car?

Could be that they've been replaced previously with 256/255mm ones.. Rust always expands the native metal so it might be? What thickness are they if you file away all the rust from the lip? (Or measure on a bit the pads have kept clean if you have the means to) 255mm discs start at 10mm thick, the 260mm ones at 12mm thick. Such a mess! On this page for the smallest discs, titled 255mm, item 7, the disc itself is described as 253 x 10! https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/6/615-615060/

I'll try this on my own car - tomorrow or Saturday - before suggesting anyone else does; but testing the motor appears to be as easy as unplugging the connector from this socket of the onboard supply unit, and connecting pin 3 to pin 4 on the loom connector with a (thickish) link wire for slow/normal speed wiper action, and pin 3 to pin 5 for high speed. If you do decide to try this please note: pulling that connector does deprive the control unit of its main earth, so do it with engine off, keys out of ignition to minimise 'system confusion'. This unit lives above the accelerator pedal on RHD cars, above clutch pedal on LHD.

Check motor operation by connecting 12V directly to the appropriate pins. May be easier to do this from the cabin end of things, rather than in the scuttle area, will look at pin numbers/connectors later for you. If that works on both speeds it may be the relay on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/473170-wiper-relay-replacement/

Measure battery voltage before and after starting engine.

Possibly some wiring damage due to flailing belt as it broke?

1K0698451D superseded to the suffix -G part number in late 2007 according to oemwolf, a handy site for looking up such things. So should be OK. https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/1k0698451d.html#replacements

A great starting point is to figure out the part number of the original springs. This can be done by looking at the coloured paint mark sequence on them, then referring to sites like 7-zap,com which 'parallel' ETKA. Can't do much without those colour mark sequences in my experience. By the way your typo conjured up a great mental picture for me, setting me up for the day with some comedy - "otters online".

No j393 central convenience module fitted after April 2011 to your car as far as I can see, so the locking is controlled by the combination of lock units, centre console switch unit (got a photo?), door control units under the switch panels on the doors (these are what the front lock units themselves connect directly and only to) and BCM, I think. I don't understand the system, but do have circuits which may be useful. The two front door control units are connected by CAN to the network. For models with rear electric windows, the door control modules are connected by LIN to the front ones on the same side. You can obtain these diagrams yourself for a relatively small fee (under £10 here) if erWin Skoda works from down under. I believe you can also get wiring diagrams specific to your VIN, but only to view or print rather than download. May still be the way to go for your situation, to simplify things as much as possible I'll have another look around the appropriate general wiring diagrams today, and see if any testing/diagnostic ideas 'leap off the page'. How many electric windows on your car?

What year is the car Rob? For cars made before May 2011, J393 central convenience unit is behind or under the glove box as far as I can tell from wiring diagram. As far as I can see, all the lock units contain are microswitches, motors and resistors, so I don't think there can be a 'master'?

Check strip fuse no. 3 in the battery fusebox.

I think that's a bit hasty and relatively unlikely to be honest. I would proceed to try to eliminate each wiring leg until you run out of candidates. Take off battery negative first to be safe from upsetting anything, then unplug washer motor, retest at rear wiper motor for shorts to earth from either white wire. If still present, unplug one of the black or white 52 way connectors from the BCM, etc.

Usually 100mm or so above the bottom coolant hose connection to the radiator. Access may be easier from below, not sure what's in the way of access from above on your engine/car.

For the calipers? 1K0 615 423M left 1K0 615 424M right. The part numbers ending C were superseded by the ones ending H, which were again superseded by the ones above, on 23/01/2008.

Check for broken wires at the radiator thermoswitch.

I thought you'd already left in a huff?

^ Good observation.

I think it's one motor that runs in opposite directions to send water to front or rear. One (water) input, two outputs. Can't visualise the internal details TBH! Unplugging either the white 52 way, the black one, or both while checking for shorts at the rear wiper should tell you whether the fault is on one or other of the wiring runs, or the BCM itself (I think, but it 's a bit late for thought).

Actually it's both, the pin 3 wire becomes green/white at pin 3 of the five-way connector on its way to pin 43 of the black 52-way connector at the BCM. En route it tees off to the other side of the washer motor to the aforementioned wire.

OK, so judging by your photo the short is between the brown earth wire and the white wire nearest to it? That white wire becomes a green/red one at pin 2 of the five-way connector you've found. From there it heads forward to the BCM, pin 2 of the white 52-way connector. At some point before getting there, it also tees off to the washer pump motor, so there's the possibility of a short in that leg of the wiring too. Do the windscreen washers work, front and rear? BCM is located 'below the right dash panel' on RHD cars. A Yeti owner is likely to be able to help with access/location much more than that, I trust!

Some people have problems with their cars, others have problems that are even more difficult to solve.