Breezy_Pete

That first video looks like clutch slip? Rapid change in rpm with very little change in speed?

This is the truth of the matter. Here's a photo of the FS2 set-up with 239mm disc and corresponding carrier part of the wheel bearing housing: The gap is less than 4mm. A 256mm disc won't fit.

Something else to bear in mind is that the sensor itself may be blameless, but a wiring fault/short-circuit may be the problem. If you get the sensor out, and measure resistance of a few thousand (guessing here) Ohms between its contacts, it is probably OK. Look for water ingress into the connector, which might explain short-circuiting too.

Comparing those linked pages, it probably makes no difference?

Climatic or climatronic system? It looks to be close to the pollen/cabin filter, item 28 in this diagram (climatic system) or item 29 in this one for the climatronic. Those diagrams are for LHD, so mirror everything for RHD.

https://carinfo.kiev.ua/cars/vin/skoda Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't.

I don't think so, but I'll see if I can do some comparative measuring tomorrow, as I have FS2 and FS3 cars to hand. There's a Ukrainian website you can stick your VIN into that may give you your full car data, including front brake PR code, I'll find you the link, hang on...

Look for the part number on the wheel bearing housing, you may only see a subset of the full number, but the AC/AG will be visible. On the inside if I remember right. The 1.2 htps came with both set-ups. Our AZQ-engined one is PR code 1LB, 239mm/FS2.

The wheel bearing housings have a different part number, AG at the end for 239mm/FS2, AC at the end for 256mm/FS3. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/4/407-407010/ That suggests to me that you can't switch easily.

Pin 3, white at sensor connector, turns to red/green at pin 6 of the 8 way plug/skt connection, originating from pin 14 of engine ECU (which also feeds 5V to the pressure diff sensor) Pin 4, green wire at sensor, becomes black/yellow at pin 5 of 8-way, ending up at ECU pin 83.

The pick-up strainer that takes the oil up to the oil pump. That may be all that needs doing, if it's significantly blocked up by solids that have accumulated over the years/kms. Clean or replace, depending on replacement cost/availability.

It will be OK, relax. Top up the oil again to compensate for what has spilled, With the cap off, the engine has a major 'false air' input that will have temporarily messed around with the engine control electronics' ability to regulate air/fuel mixture conditions. Hence the warning light and juddering. Once it 'relearns' normality with cap fitted properly all should return to normal including disappearance of warning light. May take a few drive cycles.

Peak Power at 4000rpm in that table.

Is the square thing maybe a captive nut, into which the bolt screws? I doubt very much that it will move enough to cause you any trouble as the bolt comes free.

Interesting twist to this tale just now. I bought a (recent) secondhand slave cylinder of the part number superseding the one I bought at the time of the clutch replacement, with a view to maybe modding it as a workaround solution to the clutch engagement/disengagement point being so low on the pedal. So the one currently connected to hydraulics (dustier one on the right) is a genuine 6QE721261; the one that turned up yesterday for me to have a play with possibly extending is 5Q0721261. Looking at the latter after its arrival yesterday, I had a nagging suspicion that the plunger/actuator seemed a shade longer at max extension than what I saw in the car last weekend, so here's them side by side: There's a good 5 or 6mm difference there, which is ballpark what I was thinking of trying as a modification. So maybe I just need to fit this other slave cylinder. Stand by for the next installment over the weekend...😀

What about the power curve? Can you post an image of both? Or link to these data? I would expect it to be power that's needed to get up hills.

Oh that's good news that it's still working for some. The PR codes are dead useful on parts sites where there are several possibilities that need to be narrowed down.

The alloy has corroded to the surface of the brake disc. Nothing else to undo, but may take some brutality to break the corrosion bond. Make sure the car is safely supported before kicking etc.

Get a bunch of Amphours of charge into the battery and those figures will improve, which can only help.

Don't worry Kev, chimaera's right, but there'll still be plenty of customers for something cheapish that promises a lot. 50% of people are of below average intelligence, after all.

Problems with the PAS system do seem to correlate with battery state of charge issues. When 'busy' the pump can draw several tens of amps. Try charging the battery for a few hours and see if symptoms change? The rad fans also take a fair chunk of current (and are activated when A/C is on), as does the cabin fan on higher settings, so it all tends to depress the system voltage.

That's OK according to my reading of the MOT manual as posted on a previous page. I've highlighted the relevant sentence in red: 4.1.3. Switching Dipped or main beam headlamps must immediately light up when they’re switched on (depending on the position of the dip switch). Headlamps must switch immediately between main beam and dipped beam when you move the dip switch. Moving the dip switch must do one of the following: extinguish all main beam headlamps and leave on at least one pair of dipped-beam headlamps deflect the main beams to make them dipped beams Dipped beam headlamps can remain on or switch off when main beam is selected. Headlamps are not needed on vehicles first used before 1 January 1931. When optional headlamps are fitted: if one is fitted it must dip if 2 are fitted, either both must dip or one must dip and the other switch off Defect Category (a) Headlamp ‘on’ switch does not operate in accordance with the requirements Minor (b) Headlamp ‘dip’ switch does not operate in accordance with the requirements Major

Engine running figure is fine, others a bit on the low side. Do you have a battery charger you could stick on it for a few hours to give it a top-up?

You must do, otherwise it would.

Gravity?