Breezy_Pete

What's the registration plate, or VIN please? The 70bhp 3 cylinder is a 1.2 litre non-turbocharged engine. The work to replace the tensioner (on that engine) is almost the same as for the whole chain, so I think this garage are not too sure what they're dealing with. There's a fairly straightforward way of checking the chain timing on this engine, without significant time or disassembly work. Sounds like they're unaware of this. Whereabouts in South England are you?

Yes, windy up there.

Gale force winds from the WNW may have some bearing on this??

Was there a fault code relating to it?

Left one is purge valve. Connects to intake manifold and to a pipe from the charcoal canister at back of vehicle, probably comes up with fuel pipes?

I'll repeat the above question; Does the driver's side switch panel backlighting work when the vehicle lights are on?

What made you think that it was this one that was causing the fault light, rather than the one before the SCR cat?

LHD car shown, expect the drain to be the other side of the matrix pipes if you have a RHD car.

Drips down from there, yes.

Hiding under a bump in the sound insulation on the firewall, engine side, next to where the heater matrix hoses go through into cabin.

Yes.

Thank you for making me aware of a missing part on our car.

The absence of it will not cause any problems or warning lights.

A correctly connected one (ebay listing photo) Any piece of hose that fits (and doesn't melt with engine heat) should be OK. It's not listed as a separate part.

No, the v-fitting is just a connection, both parts open, to 'forward' the EGR connection onwards to the part of the airbox where the filtered air is. Here's a photo of the two remaining parts of the linking hose. If you zoom in, the one on the left looks a bit like a blank, with partly flat end, but I guess the hose attached to the broken edge.

Interesting! The v-fitting is supposed to link these two parts of the engine cover with a pipe, broken at both ends here, and missing. I didn't know that had happened on our Fabia. 😁

My partner will be home soon with her car, so I can remind myself if it has that v shape fitting or not. Ideally both pipes (from EGR and from valve cover) should be connected to sources of clean, filtered air from the downstream side of the air filter. Any unused connections at the air filter/ engine cover should be blanked off to avoid unfiltered air entering instead.

Just block off that other part of the v shape fitting. Edit, or just try moving the EGR connection onto that one and see if the other one is sucking or not.

The connector for the oil pressure switch (green plastic body, last photo) looks very oily on the outside of it? I think that is leaking and needs replacing. That should solve the oil pressure light fault, I think. The vent pipes should be as follows, I believe, and there should be nothing on the v-shape part where the blue tape pipe is. Green square to green square (air intake for rocker cover) Red square to red square (pressure equalising feed to EGR valve)

Only if you tell me the reg plate number or VIN.

I can't see where the pipe is connecting, at the end with blue tape. Take the engine cover off for a better view of everything. Is the oil light yellow (low level) or red (low pressure)? If it is red try unplugging the 1-wire connector for the pressure switch (right in front of you with engine cover off) to see if it has leaked oil inside.

Windscreen washer nozzles are likely to have local connectors at the individual nozzles, probably easily spotted and disconnected.

Hardcopy manuals struggle to keep up with changes over time.

From May 2012 fuse 9 is listed as the following: 9 - Fuse 9 on fuse holder B -SB9- 5A - Control unit for cornering light and headlight range control -J745- , Air conditioning system control unit -J301- , Climatronic control unit -J255- , Radiator fan control unit -J293- , Parking aid control unit -J446- , Heater element for left spray jet -Z20- , Heater element for right spray jet -Z21- , Multi-function steering wheel, Steering angle sender -G85 So you'll need to find which of those consumers is causing it to blow, fix that and you should be good. If the car has heated washer jets try unplugging those for starters.

This is a method worth trying