Breezy_Pete

How many miles has the car done Tony? The original cats will be bigger and contain far more catalytic materials compared with an aftermarket replacement, which are probably capable of scraping through 2 or 3 MOTs only, and I think will universally omit the precat at the start of the section, So a grafting in of a flexi is a good option, but not entirely straightforward. I believe you may find 'kinks' in the 3D shape of the front section, close to the flexible part on at least one end, which will need careful planning and marking to ensure a viable fit if welding it in. I think the front section part number is 6Q0254502RX, still available from Skoda if you have a grand or so to spare. Aftermarket versions can be found at around a tenth of that cost on ebay, if you search that number. I can be more confident of that being the correct part number for your car if you supply reg or VIN.

If you'd like the current part number for the coilpacks, ping me the reg or VIN. Unless someone made a mistake (or only claimed to replace them...), plugs fitted in Oct '24 can't really be a problem already? Check no.3, sure.

@ThomasP, if you would like the wiring information about which engine ECU pins the G62 sensor connects from, please share your VIN by private message so I can look up for you. May be useful to an autospark, if not yourself.

A condition check of the spark plug in cylinder 3, if not all, would be wise prior to any parts spending, to be honest, if garage have not done so.

Cylinder 3, I think Gaz. See full description under this vid: https://youtu.be/1ZyIgvil_9A?si=DKGeqbpjK8ZPBPVu I would certainly not replace unfailed ones, but I might acquire a spare to keep in the car, for potential roadside repairs.

PM'ing you about this now.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to either of those questions. Front bumper may well have to be removed to replace it, which adds a bit of labour time. If you can DIY, it may save a fair bit. Shame there don't seem to be any aftermarket units available yet.

@Stevept80, I didn't check for you the other day, but having just done so, I see that the part number you quoted was superseded by Skoda to 6V2941015F, which is what they presumably quoted for, £496 + VAT? (£595.20) Which makes the LLL one seem relatively cheap; although it's now showing as check availability, so may be illusory. A suffix-E one on ebay at similar price https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134827777739

Physical damage to existing unit, or internal failure?

This may be marginally cheaper, but still eye-watering https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/6V2941015E/vag-led-headlight-6v2941015e

Well done for persisting and winning!

Terminal 30 simply refers to anything that is a permanent 12V connection.

Driver's door motor module needs repairing. Classic symptoms described in your post. Message me or look in the Entrepreneur section for details of repair service, if you wish.

Yes, I believe so. Could you maybe solder the wires straight onto those pins coming out of the regulator?

That photo would make me think it's a connection problem, right there.

Possibly a problem with the voltage regulator part of the alternator, is it original as far as you know? What voltage do you see across battery terminals with engine running?

Pin 1 brown, earth Pin 2 black, +5V Pin 4 blue, signal.

Water pump on the end...

What year is your Yeti? Which fuse (number) did you look at? (Owners manuals are sometimes incorrect/out of date). Broken wire(s) inside boot at A-pillar where the door loom plugs into the cabin loom, possibly.

Yep, 507 00, whether on fixed or variable servicing.

My other suspicion would be that the sidelight failed a while back without being noticed, and the headlight is the shuttered, single-bulb type and that has failed.

I have a feeling that I've seen people successfully repairing this component or similar versions from other models. A ribbon cable within it breaks and can be re-connected with some care, I think. One alternative is an offputting £245.50 plus VAT price tag for a new genuine one at a Skoda dealer's parts counter. Not sure what, if anything, is available aftermarket.

No stop/start = no coding required.

If the indicator isn't working as well, I'd think maybe the connector to the left headlamp assembly has come loose?

I think I need to have a tinker with my 9n Polo, currently off the road, to measure those WW and INT connections during the action to see directly what occurs.