Breezy_Pete

The second time the missus stalled it yesterday she was going round a mini roundabout. PASless it's a beast to steer, as I found out the other day. Not that a separate belt would've helped in that situation.

How would I know the crank is at TDC when one of the marks that I'm supposed to line up with is on the locking tool?

PWMed single electric fan on this one, not sure how easy it is to shed. I did pick up some gloop for the corners of the gasket, ta. I think the compressor and PAS are all on the same aux belt? Think the belt is first target though, maybe this weekend, or next week. Nothing much else is going on, right? 😄

Oh, I didn't think of that. Would explain why there were no scary numbers. Thanks so much. That link in previous post looks like a wealth of info to digest. Got a spare cam cover gasket this morning at GSF, and ordered a set of timing tools to come tomorrow. Just hoping I can get enough access to get the crank lock thing in without having to hinge the front of the car forward. From brief attempts with some of the accessible fasteners, I'm pretty sure the front bumper has never been off. [Which, now that I type that, makes me wonder if/how the belt was changed in 2020, as the service book claims...].

Observed something interesting yesterday evening while looking at measuring blocks. Nothing I actually saw being weird in the measurements, but with a mid-temperature engine idling in a car park, I found that I could make it feel like it was misfiring by raising the revs to a particular speed around 1150 or so. Whole car shaking a bit. Scanned through lots of MVBs while it was doing this without noticing any 'stand out' numbers anywhere!

Yes, most of the roads round here don't ever get quiet enough to do anything other than modest speeds, but it just never gets to 90C within the first 12-15 miles of a journey, and usually seems to linger nearer 80. Surprisingly, the dash gauge does seem to pretty accurately display what VCDS reads from both NTCs within the green dual sender. Oil temp is consistent with both of those two, although I guess all three could be suffering downward drift. Might swap in a spare sender I've bought to see if it's all just an illusion.

You can adjust the position of the latch with two or three Torx screws.

You need to be underneath the car to access the fasteners of the oil separator, and it's not totally easy then, cos the subframe gets in the way of good visibility. If you don't have trolley jack and axle stands to raise/support the front of the car safely, don't bother trying.

Can't remember what has gone before with this car. Have you inspected or replaced the oil separator/PCV valve assembly on the back of the engine block?

It's heat that they don't like more than cold.

15 years is a good innings for a battery. It will probably have visible VW group part number on the top surface if it is factory original. Maybe a date code too. With a bit of luck, you'll find you don't need to mess about putting the new one on charge so regularly, unless there's a parasitic drain.

Like someone who wants their front fogs to be LED rather than any other type of light source isn't going to want them on all the time to show everyone...

I think it may be best to try another light switch if you can find a cheap secondhand one with exactly the same part number as yours.

The relay being referred to earlier in this thread is actually a control unit for bulb failure warning, housed in a (wide) relay-like box. It spanned positions 13 and 14 of the mk1 relay panel. It had no connection to the CAN network and there isn't such a thing as the 'canbus light system' in a mk1 Fabia. It featured on mk1 Fabia, but I have a feeling the function would have been incorporated into another control unit such as the BCM by the time a 2012 mk2 Fabia was built @Hogstar Edit: a quick look at the earliest mk2 circuits suggests it wasn't a separate control unit even at launch of the mk2. Does your car give bulb failure warnings? Which rear lights aren't working? Have you checked the bulbs?

Please note that the wiring info even in the later of the two documents there may not be a perfect match for your car, which being 2005 will be a facelift model. I think the later document amongst those only goes up to the end of pre-facelift. Feel free to ask if anything seems different to what you find on the car. erWin Skoda can be used to download the more recent circuit pdfs, for a small fee.

Check prices at Tayna.co.uk, you may find they're significantly better.

How many more years might the car be kept? Operationally, they'll seem indistinguishable IMO.

Another log this morning, on arrival after 35 minute drive to work has me wondering if the measured torsion value might be maxing out at -1.5. (VCDS says -3 to +3 when you hover over the box, but...) Engine doesn't warm up properly to 90 due I think to thermostat not closing fully (new, genuine replacement a few months back), but the behaviour when mostly warm differs in that a throttle blip now doesn't reduce the negativity by 0.5. Torsion number just sits solid on -1.5. Or could it be that the disappointing economy is just related to the engine temperature not getting above about 80°C at the moment; I wonder? Planning to revisit thermostat over the holiday. LOG-01-004-012-013.xlsx

A large quantity of useful info is available here, including wiring info: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

1. No Wiring goes from stalk switch to fuses 30 and 23 (both 10 amp fuses) for left and right main beam bulbs respectively. Check for voltage at these two fuseholders when main beam is selected on stalk. 1.2 Yes, e.g. ebay, but why do you think it needs replacement. Minor config coding required if it is changed, unless with an identical part number including suffix, and from a same-model car with exactly the same features. 2. Check bulbs first if you haven't. This thread has info on bulb types as well as fuses. The MkI Fabia Fuse Layout Post *updated with bulb types* - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA 3. Yes, with VCDS or registered copy of VCDS Lite, if that is what is happening. The self locking when parked (if a door has been opened since unlocking with button on keyfob) suggests there may be a problem with recognition of the door having been opened. This is often caused by problems with the microswitch, its wiring, or the solder joints of the connector on the lock module, on the side of the car where door opening isn't being 'seen'. Auto locking when in motion is related to a minimum speed being achieved (15kph?), rather than a time since departure; so a very slow crawl away from standstill may help to decide if it is or isn't the autolock function. 4. VCDS Lite, freeware downloadable from here: Ross-Tech: VCDS-Lite Download together with a laptop to put it on, and a third-party FTDI/KKL interface cable.

Interesting. Sounds like attempting to tweak that towards 0.0 just now might be a waste of time, unless I've got time and inclination to do a load of experimenting. Thanks again.

Ta. Think I might need to do some basics over the Christmas break, like checking that the belt isn't a whole tooth out, having a look at the cam and the injector loom. Partner stalled it twice this morning without doing anything silly, so there's definitely something significantly amiss. I'd better grab a gasket for the cam cover. Thanks for the support.

The log has a couple of minutes more data, including a few blips of the throttle, which as per a youtube video I watched first, briefly reduces the torsion value to -1.0 each blip. Not much else seemed to vary.

Thanks mainly to @Golf-Fiend and @SuperbTWM in another thread that has become a bit polluted; I've just grabbed some data that appears to show an issue with the timing, not sure how bad, but probably worth tweaking. Injector deviations also logged briefly, at or near idle, with warmish but <50°C engine. I'm not sure what engine temps are best for logging either torsion value or deviations. Anyone know if that -1.5 needs a clockwise or anticlockwise turn of the cam to reduce towards zero, please?

We being who? Many rainforests round your 'neck of the woods'? How much pressure do you think you can put on countries with significant amounts of rainforest, realistically? It's sweet that you think they just haven't realised, and now you've told them what to do all will be well.