Breezy_Pete

Probably a trim level thing whether all the possible lights work or not. Vehicle lighting seems to have degenerated into primarily being decorative as opposed to functional, over the last decade or so. Indicators keep shrinking and getting masked by adjacent lights. Sad really.

A case of ETKA sketches being a bit confusing whilst trying to show two different variations of something in one image.

That could only be fitted if you had pipe 16 to fit it to. So no. The red o-ring does the job on your engine.

Apparently Skoda stopped supplying the red EGR one in 2022, so you'd have to go aftermarket or NOS for one if you did need or want to replace.

No, your 19 goes straight onto 1, no 14, 16 or 18. That was the old style on the Axx code engines, I think. If both o-rings are present, wouldn't bother replacing, probably. Get that adaptation done, if you clear fault codes first it might work.

Red EGR one is 036131550J TB to mani one is 036133073 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/1/133/133025

Can see the red o-ring between stainless EGR pipe and manifold I think. Still stuck in mani. TB to mani one is green, I think, part number coming up.

Yours doesn't have adaptor pipe 16, does it? VIN would be handy, or reg number.

No gasket between throttle body and manifold?!

Rectangular section o-ring, from memory, like TB to mani one, but smaller.

Will look up the gasket PN after eating. That being missing may have been the main problem, big air leak straight into inlet manifold, I'd imagine.

Don't really need greasing. Was mainly an issue in days gone by when the sealing wasn't so good round the posts, and battery acid might wick up onto them. Dry works great for me. Be aware that the posts are slightly tapered, so if you seem to be running out of squeeze on the clamps, Loosen off again and push them further down. Then tighten while holding down as far as they can go.

Let us know how you get on with accessing the relay panel please Robert, preferably with photos. Forum info on such things tends to be sparse, because the need for access is relatively rare.

Assuming you mean AGM type was and is now fitted, then you have coded it correctly. Factory or dealer must have made an error when coding original or possible previous replacement battery.

Should find it in position 9 of the relay panel and may say "100" on the top of it. I think relay panel will be behind and above fuse panel. Deeper and higher in dashboard. Fuse panel probably has to come out to access? Think you have the wrong relay too. Yours should be more conventional cuboid shape, part number 7M0 951 253A, superseded by 4H0 951 253, according to parts catalogue.

Red/blue and blue/purple are the wires going to the motor in the passenger front door lock. Slightly thicker than the other wires going to the lock (except the brown one). They will be polarised oppositely depending on whether the door is in the process of being unlocked or locked at the time of measurement. You will probably need an assistant to be pressing buttons while you try to measure voltage between these two. If one wire never shows a voltage it may be broken at the door hinge. Feed volts directly in at the points you can access, until the door unlocks. If you do see reversing voltages in the wiring, then the problem is the lock module itself. The accessible section of the lock wiring is shown in the green rectangle here (passenger side on a UK/RHD car):

Yes, I believe it is possible to reach the 3 Torx head screws at the bottom of the card, but not easy with seat in the way. Then door handle unscrewed, window switch wiring disconnected etc. then pop out the 3 clips at rear and front edges from bottom upwards. Front edge will be difficult where dashboard overlaps doorcard, I think. Will check wire colours to lock motor now. Maybe there's another screw up near the door opening handle on inside, can't remember?

Passenger front door lock or wiring/connections to it. Everyone reading should note that the time to address such issues is when they are intermittent, before the door cannot be unlocked. If you can wrestle the door card off, despite the door being shut, I can tell you which wires (which will now be accessible on inner side of door) drive the lock motor. You could then pierce insulation and measure voltages to see if power is getting that far.

OK, so there is a bad connection in the driver's door wiring, but with remote-activated unlocking, I believe that would not affect the passenger door lock. With RF remote central locking, the individual lock motors are driven by relays in a central control unit, which is also the receiver for the remote radio signalling. If you only had key in lock central locking, a fault on driver's side could affect others, as the lock/unlock command signals (key position really) come from that door lock module, rather than central convenience unit

So when you try to unlock with remote keyfob button, all doors except passenger front door unlock?

That relay looks like one that would be mounted in the engine bay. Can you offer reg number or VIN so I can check where yours should be. What's below the light switch? Looks like a panel or something between light switch and diagnostic socket?

What year is the car, and does it have RF remote central locking, or just key in lock C/L? I think it's quite unlikely to be the damaged wiring in driver's side, unless you can see broken wires inside the damaged insulation. Usually the wires last a long time even when the insulation is cracked, in dry locations.

Please confirm that when you are measuring voltages with your meter, you are connecting the negative probe to something that is unpainted metal, connected to the car body? The outer connection/tube of the cigarette lighter socket would be an example of this.

Fuel supply relay has permanent 12V to connections 30 and 86, as seen in the diagram, red wires. Ignore that one for now though. Focus on fuel pump relay connection 85. Positive meter probe in that, negative meter probe on chassis earth, with ignition switched on so that the instrument cluster lights up various warning lights.

Fuel pump relay is in position 14, fuel supply relay (triggered by door opening only) is in pos 10.1