Breezy_Pete

Is there a removable panel somewhere below the light switch?

Not much cranking power required for a 1.2 HTP so I'd say just go with something with a decent length guarantee, above all else.

Are you certain that one bulb had not failed before this? Anyway, checking bulbs and if failed changing them would be my approach.

A problem with one of the relays that are supposed to switch off these items while, and only while, the starter motor is cranking the engine, I believe. These relays are in position 4 and position 11b on the cabin relay carrier.

Do a compression test.

If you're lucky, those codes may be on a sticker in the boot, next to spare wheel well.

Yes, it must be frustrating. I hope that you will find some wiring damage somewhere soon, which may explain all of this stuff.

It seems very, very unlikely to me that there would be anything wrong with the blue wire(s) that connect relays 14 and 10.1 to one side of fuse 30, but it may be easier to probe such connections from the front side of the fusebox and relay panel?

I don't believe this is true. Some of the wiring comes from the Onboard power supply control unit, pins 2 of the white 52 way connector and pin 43 of the black 52 way. These get to the wiper motor pins 2 (INT) and 3 (WW) via a couple of intermediate connectors, a pink one at the left C-pillar and a black one in the rear lid. The wire colours are green/red and green/white respectively, all the way. the other two connections at pins 4 and 1 of the rear wiper are an ignition switched supply (black/violet) and an earth (brown). The washer pump motor is solely connected in parallel with INT and WW connections, for both front and rear wash functions, and as well as not being labelled as CAN wiring, this is more evidence in my mind that these wires are nothing to do with the CAN comms system.

I don't know. Don't think so. did you check the fuse mentioned yesterday:

There isn't really such a thing, at least not as a single diagram. Different versions of mk2 Fabia from different years, with different engines and options all have different fusebox details. Even with your VIN, I don't have anywhere that shows the exact fuse assignments of your car, except if I were to go through every page of the whole wiring document picking out which options your car has, and compiling a list. I won't be doing that, sorry. Fuse 30 will have two cables coming from the back of it, as shown in Jocko's diagram, a blue cable and a blue/white one.

If you share either the reg number or VIN with me, I can dig out the wiring info for the rear wiper.

Is there a removable piece of trim at left-hand end of dashboard, visible with door open? That may give you a view of motor and cogs.

I didn't look that closely at the parts diagram, which doesn't even show the flaps, but I think there's only one motor up there, yes.

Yes, assuming cyl 3 is the one that has the special plug. Part number is 03L 905 061G, superseded by 03L 905 061L. Latter is £138 + VAT at Skoda, for reference.

Be aware that there is another version of the cabin A/C stuff, Denso rather than Valeo, which has a separate diagram page, with different part numbers. Denso version I seem to remember that knowing which system your car has is not totally straightforward, and probably involves looking at the part number label on e.g. the blower motor. You probably won't be able to with that motor fitted, or not without damage anyway. See if you can see it first!

Recirc flap motor is above the pollen filter, shown in the diagram here as item 18. Diagram shows a LHD car, so in RHD it is probably at the left/passenger end of the dash instead. Possibly accessible via a removable end section? Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

Yes, I think so. Not sure where I would start on that one though. Does it keep happening each time you switch on ignition?

If it's like most VW-group connectors, pushing the whole housing firmly onto the mating part while lifting the latch usually helps it release. Once you hear it click, stop pushing and start pulling. The relay in position 4 is the X-contact relief relay. This switches off various things when the starter motor is energised, so that maximum power is available. I think you will only hear it click just as the starter is energised, and then just as it stops being. (Never tried though, so that's theoretical). I suspect the problem you are having may be that the coil of either the ECU relay (position 13, number 429; or the fuel pump relay position 14, number 53), is not being energised for some reason. If the ECU relay isn't being energised, the fuel pump relay can't be either, because the engine ECU is controlling it's coil. Check fuse 3 (5 amps) and see if the terminal labelled 6 and/or 86 on the ECU relay holder at position13 gets 12V when the ignition is switched on. Do the same at position 14 for the fuel pump relay positive coil feed. Again with ignition switched on, but this time it is the terminal labelled 6 and/or 85 that should have 12V.

One way to test the wiring from fuel pump relay to fuel pump, is to link the two bigger connections (30 to 87) of position 14 in the relay holder, with relay not fitted. That should make the fuel pump run for as long as the link is there. But running it for 1 second will prove wiring OK.

Try another fuel pump relay if the wire paths seem OK. Just because a relay clicks, doesn't mean it definitely works. The contacts can be badly burnt so that it doesn't carry enough current. Judging by one of your photos above, it's the one with 53 written on the top of it. The lack of fuel pump action when opening door may be an unrelated wiring fault, meaning that the vehicle voltage control unit (which senses door opening and triggers the fuel feed relay) may not be sensing that the door has been opened.

You will just have to work with Jocko's diagram, checking continuity of wires between the various points, especially fuse 30 terminal to fuel pump terminal (the blue/white wire path). Take out the fuse, use meter on resistance range to measure from pin of blue/white wire at pump connector, to each side of fuse. One side of the fuse position should show zero Ohms to there. You may need an assistant and possibly an extended meter wire. The brown/violet wire at the fuel pump connector should go to chassis/earth.

Your car was built on 1st October 2009, and has CEVA engine code. The circuit relating to fuel pump and the two relays involved is exactly as in @Jocko's post a few pages (and months) back. So fuse 30 is the correct one. Actually a much clearer presentation of the involved circuit than the manufacturer's own diagrams. Is that from Autodata? Do you get fuel pump activation when you open the driver's door for the first time? If you do, that would confirm that the wiring to the pump from the fuse is OK.

It's built into the expansion tank, so you just replace that if you have ruled out wiring faults. Do you get a warning if you run engine with it unplugged?

These three are the main ones to focus on. I think the one you have with an 86a terminal is probably the engine ECU relay from position 13, which has a diode between terminal 86 and the coil but not from 86a to coil, explaining your measurements. Fuel pump relay, which is the one that may not be OK, is in position 14. Fuel feed relay in position 10.1 is the one that provides a short run of the fuel pump when the driver's door is opened, after the car has been unopened for half an hour or more.