Breezy_Pete

Yep, that offfside drive flange is a pain if left in. Good work though, and glad the problem is clear and readily fixed.

I don't know much about the CAN-based pre-facelift units, but can have a look at circuits and have a think about this for you, most likely tomorrow. I'd hazard a guess that this may be a wire problem, rather than a module one.

That's an odd one. As far as I know, there shouldn't be a mode where the rear wiper runs continuously, except as part of the wash/wipe cycle, so I suspect the problem may be internal to the rear wiper motor/module. For what it's worth, the control connections for the rear wiper functions are in parallel with the wires going to the washer motor at the reservoir bottle, which you will have been near to in nearside wing when doing gearbox removal/refit, I guess? May be worth eyeballing for damage or rubbing of wiring on metalwork somewhere. A wealth of info about everything for mk1 Fabia, including circuits, can be found here: MK1 Fabia workshop manuals - SKODA Fabia - BRISKODA

Exterior color / Paint Code D9 / F6C

I can look it up with the VIN, I think.

Hi Goz, and welcome.

TPS, dealership, LLL parts (probably too slow) or an ebay seller called "VAGbolts" are probably your best options. If you literally just mean the ones that connect bellhousing to engine, I wouldn't bother replacing, just re-use. More important to consider replacing the vertical gearbox mounting bolts I'd suggest. Also, super-important to be aware that the rear dogbone mount bolt is 61mm long, compared to a few of the other bolts of same thread that are 65mm long. If you mix them all up and put a 65mm one back in there by mistake, you're going to bugger up your steering rack.

FWIW this is what the official Skoda maintenance manual says for raising Mk1 Fabia with lift or 'workshop jack': Doesn't say anything about axles stand positions, because official workshops probably don't use those often. There's a bit of a non-sensical translation at one point - "in the make axle"; but the arrows may be useful. On other models, near the front of the longitudinal box section is suggested, and I happily use that for stands, as well as console bush housings. Some trim levels have plastic covers over the underside that shroud the box sections though, and jacking or axle stands onto the plastic cover won't go well. I fitted the Audi TT jacking things on ours, and on my Polo, but they're hard/expensive to source these days. The front ones fit to those points shown in the diagram, the rear ones just inboard of the sills from the arrows. I'll add some pics of those on the Polo later, if I get out at lunchtime

Take a sander to the shoes and see if problem diminishes or vanishes with minimal material removal. Or just reuse the old drum.

I expect there are a few different versions, but the first circuit I'm looking at suggests that power comes in to the sidelight part of the switch on a red wire on pin 15 of the 17-way connector. Outputs to sidelights (BCM actually) in either 'lights on' position are on pins 13 and 14 on grey/blue and grey/red wires, for left and right sides respectively. If your connector doesn't resemble this arrangement, stick up a photo, but I expect the output wire colours will be common to any variants.

Probably a trim level thing whether all the possible lights work or not. Vehicle lighting seems to have degenerated into primarily being decorative as opposed to functional, over the last decade or so. Indicators keep shrinking and getting masked by adjacent lights. Sad really.

A case of ETKA sketches being a bit confusing whilst trying to show two different variations of something in one image.

That could only be fitted if you had pipe 16 to fit it to. So no. The red o-ring does the job on your engine.

Apparently Skoda stopped supplying the red EGR one in 2022, so you'd have to go aftermarket or NOS for one if you did need or want to replace.

No, your 19 goes straight onto 1, no 14, 16 or 18. That was the old style on the Axx code engines, I think. If both o-rings are present, wouldn't bother replacing, probably. Get that adaptation done, if you clear fault codes first it might work.

Red EGR one is 036131550J TB to mani one is 036133073 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/1/133/133025

Can see the red o-ring between stainless EGR pipe and manifold I think. Still stuck in mani. TB to mani one is green, I think, part number coming up.

Yours doesn't have adaptor pipe 16, does it? VIN would be handy, or reg number.

No gasket between throttle body and manifold?!

Rectangular section o-ring, from memory, like TB to mani one, but smaller.

Will look up the gasket PN after eating. That being missing may have been the main problem, big air leak straight into inlet manifold, I'd imagine.

Don't really need greasing. Was mainly an issue in days gone by when the sealing wasn't so good round the posts, and battery acid might wick up onto them. Dry works great for me. Be aware that the posts are slightly tapered, so if you seem to be running out of squeeze on the clamps, Loosen off again and push them further down. Then tighten while holding down as far as they can go.

Let us know how you get on with accessing the relay panel please Robert, preferably with photos. Forum info on such things tends to be sparse, because the need for access is relatively rare.

Assuming you mean AGM type was and is now fitted, then you have coded it correctly. Factory or dealer must have made an error when coding original or possible previous replacement battery.

Should find it in position 9 of the relay panel and may say "100" on the top of it. I think relay panel will be behind and above fuse panel. Deeper and higher in dashboard. Fuse panel probably has to come out to access? Think you have the wrong relay too. Yours should be more conventional cuboid shape, part number 7M0 951 253A, superseded by 4H0 951 253, according to parts catalogue.