Breezy_Pete

Spoke to a helpful fella at my local TPS about the servo hose. Not able to order it any more and none showing at any TPS or dealership in the whole UK. ☹️ Just messaged an ebay seller with a suitable vehicle listed as breaking. Reluctant to do battle with it until I've got something that could fit in there if I destroy it trying to extract it, cos that would render the vehicle undrivable.

No progress on the servo NRV; access is horrible in the scuttle, wiring conduit and A/C pipes in the way. Vaguely wondering about plumbing in a new, additional NRV somewhere more accessible. Genuine replacement pipe is NLA, doubt there's anything aftermarket. 8E2 611 931M, dropped from supply by Audi a few months back. I replaced the foglight damaged by the deer crash today, as well as the ARB bushes and links. The latter was suggested by a near neighbour as a possible solution to the clatter/knock I get at low speed on rough road surfaces. I will be pleasantly surprised if it's made any difference. Couldn't see much wrong with what came off. Oh, and of course, of the 8 ARB fasteners I had to undo, one seized and had to be sawn off. The joy of old cars.

Smoke is what it was failing on.

Well done. But don't stop looking to see why it was a bit smoky, improvement in that is likely to improve economy and power.

Good luck with that! Lots of folks only seem to come on here for an argument. 2 is correct though.

Guessing generally leads to very expensive errors. Have a look at* the throttle valve as suggested, or get a VCDS scan to see if any faults show up. * Edit - as in examine visually by disconnecting pipework from it, not as in 'buy a new one'

There would be a hell of a lot more threads on here with people trying to fix it if it were. AA man is probably harbouring the mistaken idea that any fault light is a fail. Never been true AFAIK, though often claimed.

Battery light wouldn't come on at all if that wire was broken.

I realise he hasn't yet done it, it's just my suggestion of the best plan of action. 👍

Putting it on charge with the battery charger he says he has, for an hour or two once a week, between now and when he can use it again would do the battery least harm.

That's why I was asking the year. I had a quick glance at circuits, and I think I concluded that Chris's car predates such BCM involvement. Not fully sure on that though.

What year is the car?

Check the engine-running voltage across the battery. Brightness of incandescent bulbs goes up with the square of applied voltage, so you would prefer not to have a lossy charging system.

Is the engine speed sensor (crank angle sensor) something that has been checked or replaced?

That part number can be relied on. Thought it might help. Having said that, the ETKA page also says "Before parts order, physical inspection of old part necessary" So yeah, leave it to the people who'll do the work.

Your reg number gives this part number for the flywheel - 028 105 269 B Judging by the image (if representative) on this page, I think that isn't dual mass, but I'm no expert. Flywheel 1.6TDI, 1.9TDI Sachs 028105269B

As expected, left rear door has only single LIN-wire comms with left front door, via pin 19 at the B and A-pillar connectors respectively. It's a lilac/white wire. Fuse (32) that covers rear left is shared with rear right, so if rear right door is OK it can't be that. Front left door has CAN bus connections into convenience system, is that (front left door stuff) all working fully? If so I think the LIN wire to rear left, or an earth at rear left door seems the most likely problem. Will PM you the relevant pages of circuits.

Will have a look in the morning for you.

Reg number or VIN would help. That would give me build date and options, which will affect which wiring diagram is most appropriate. I have a feeling it'll show that the rear door module is in communication with just the front door module on same side of the car via single wire LIN bus.

If it's RHD, I'd suggest checking wiring to left/passenger front door for wire breaks.

LHD or RHD car?

Acquired a similar vehicle myself recently, a 2007 and manual transmission but otherwise equivalent. Liking it so far, but lots to learn. @ColinD should read at least your first paragraph @dsolds.

Is there something in particular that you are trying to find? Wiring diagrams have two sets of J519 pinouts for cars built in 2011, one set covers cars built up until end of April 2011, the other set from May 2011, not sure if that coincides with the pre/post facelift timescale for Yeti.

The throttle body on your car is connected only to the engine ECU. The engine ECU has no permanent connection to 12V, it is only powered when the ignition (contact) is on or engine is running. So if it is making noise when the key is not in the ignition, there is a fault with the car's electrics, not the throttle body. I think the ECU relay would be my first suspect, perhaps its contacts are sometimes welding themselves together. This relay is in position 12 of the relay carrier in the cabin. The emissions problem may be a lambda sensor being too old, or possibly the catalytic converter. Or if you still have not checked cylinder compressions, then it may be an exhaust valve problem.

If it's the factory fitted original unit, you won't need a code.