Breezy_Pete

Fuel pump relay is in position 14, fuel supply relay (triggered by door opening only) is in pos 10.1

Because the fuel pump relay is not being energised. If you look at the back of the cabin fusebox, you may be able to see solid metal 'busbar' connections linking two groups of fuses. One busbar will connect all the fuses that are permanently 12V. A second busbar probably connects all fuses that should be switched on by ignition switch. The others are not so easy to describe, where there are wires going to both sides.

Can you post a close-up picture of the relay sockets, especially position 14? Need to check that you are measuring correct point.

The second thick black wire, to the right of the missing fuse, is bolted to fuse SA2. It is supplying 12V to interior of car including that connection of ignition switch. Is that rust or red dust all over that fusebox? You must have continuity through that fuse or nothing in the cabin would be working, now I think about it. Just to check, when you are turning the key to switch on ignition, you are seeing lots of stuff illuminate in the instrument cluster, right?

Much more likely to be the light switch, I think.

No, I mean check that there is 12V on both ends of the fuse, to prove it is not broken. I do not know the steps to access ignition switch. Locking problems are unlikely to be related to this.

May be quite easy, but can't remember the technique just now. Involves pushing it inward (opposite of turning on fogs) and turning one way or the other. Then pulling.

There are 3 coils, one plugged onto the top of each spark plug.

Post a photo of the fusebox on top of your battery, and I will highlight SA2 for you, but I expect it is labelled. Ignition switch is under the steering column, operated by the key.

Look again at Jocko's diagram. If connection 85 of the fuel pump relay position (14) does not get 12V when ignition is on, that relay can never be turned on/energised. The wiring to it is simple. Strip fuse in engine bay to ignition switch, then ignition switch to relay holder.

Try 'working' the light switch a bit to maybe clean contacts.

Try leaving the car with the indicator stalk up or down, see if the front and rear side lights on side you indicate towards stay on after you close door and lock up (Parking light function). That could prove bulbs and wiring from BCM to them, if both sides work.

Looks like an error to me. In the circuits I'm seeing a feed from a 40 amp fuse in engine bay to light switch, then the sidelight outputs from there to BCM, then from BCM to the side lights. No individual fuse related to just side lights, although that one (23) is shown as being for interior lighting. Baffling to me, unless it's a light switch fault. What happens if you spin the switch dial a few times each way to maybe clean up the contacts a bit?

I edited my previous post to include a question about where you've seen fuse 23 listed as being for side lights. Owners manual? Random internet site?

Listed where? It isn't in the tables of fuse allocations in Skoda official wiring as far as I can see. Check a bulb, unless you are certain that they were all working recently.

I can't see fuse 23 being involved, that appears to be for interior lights. Have a look at fuse 17 instead.

@Neily03 makes a valid point.

Good question. My first clutch job was on Jen's Fabia, between Christmas and New Year six or seven years back. Had a very low roofed open-ended garage to work in, with a flimsy tent bit across the front to keep the snow off cos the front of the car had to be outside a bit to have enough height. So much fun... 😆

Have you come across Kevin Albert Williams on youtube? Mobile clutch mechanic. This one must be very similar to yours:

Just seen another interesting one, after watching this guy on the subject of farmer's inheritance tax, which is also a good listen.

No worries. It's a common error thinking that the suffixes on part numbers are 'just a revision level' or whatever. So much so that I made a little thread about it once. Sometimes they are, but often they're not.

Take your time with the driveshaft screws, make sure you have full tool engagement in the heads, don't want to round any off. From memory, there are two bolts low down that go from engine side into bellhousing that need exhaust to get out of the way, and there's another midway up the rear side that comes from offside direction, may be hard to spot.

LLL one is genuine too. I've used them a few times, without problems.

£100 each probably including delivery here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/5Q0513029ST/skoda-gas-shock-absorber-5q0513029st? Delivery can be a little slow with this lot though, but then Skoda-parts.com would be too, cos coming from Czech.

Extremely wise to be worried about that. If you let me know the VIN, I can look and see if there's a previous correct version listed, that's been superseded by the suffix NA, which may be more recognisable by the aftermarket.