varaderoguy

I would electrically check the old pump if you still have it. Check it electrically and also with a power supply. If it works then the issue is probably not the pump, it will be wiring somewhere (check earth's on the tailgate). BTW.... aftermarket devices are not good. Did you electrically test that one before installing it? Just because it's new it doesn't mean it's any good. BTW...I have found VAG products are usually similar prices and at least you will have a good known product.

It obviously depends on the Skoda dealership, but what I quoted was minimum labour time at a Skoda Dealership (at least here in the UK). If you have a relationship with an existing dealer or specialist with ODIS then please use their services.

I am not advocating hacking the firmware to enable certain features. However, each person to their own; if you wish to do this, then its your responsibility if it goes wrong. I don't think I mentioned anything to do with one hour.

Have you done a CCA test on the battery?

Broadly yes. Its signifies that any re-gen process (even on a petrol engine) is completed, that the battery is optimally charged and that there are no electronics on the car pulling excessive amounts of current.

It is a good shout @Gerrycan. However, these are tyres from 2021 (Dunlop Sport) which I think were OEM for this car and they have loads of tread on them. The car has only done 13k miles.

Depends on the battery in all honesty. Again I refer back to the official VAG/Skoda way of doing it; you need a battery maintainer.

Auto-stop/start is disabled and rpms are higher than normal. Best go drive the car some more until the process is completed.

More stability for Carplay and Android Auto.

thats a little worrying....I've not seen a DSG do that before. Its almost like the car is either not sure whether it is in normal drive or manual drive mode - or it thinks its moving. Can you do a gearbox relearn please? Reset Procedure Put the key in the ignition and turn on – Do not start the car. Hold down the accelerator pedal fully for at least 10 seconds (many suggest 20 seconds). You will feel a little click under your foot at you push down the pedal fully. Release the pedal – turn the key in the ignition. Can you also confirm when the DQ250/381 gearbox has its last oil change?

It depends is the answer to that question: If your car is doing a re-gen, it will generally idle higher than if it isn't doing a re-gen. TDI's generally idle the same (except when on re-gen); TSI's idle higher for about 30-50 seconds, then idle down a little when cold.

I don't think so - what happens if that the last character is usually a revision number. When the company puts in the part number with a J at the end of it, their system will tell them it has been superseeded by the same part number, but with an M in it. Its quite usual VAG processes to do that.

Well, there are 'hacks' of course, but you have to be a fairly person to go invalidate your warranty or support on your system. VCDS cannot 'hack' the system per-say - its more of a configuration tool. Its an hour of your dealers time on ODIS to get CP removed.

Apologies (I speed read too much)....but you still need a MK3 parcelshelf. Try this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/145498681497 A bit more expensive. What happened to your current retractable parcel shelf?

Sadly, not to be. You need ODIS at a Skoda dealer to get the Component Protection removed....and you must provide proof that your Head Unit is not stolen.

Have to be *super careful* when discussing anything to do with oil pressure. It could well be the oil pressure sensor has presented inplausable information to the ECM. Firstly, check your oil level. if its low, you know what to do! Secondly - because it could be either the sensor or a real indication of a further problem (such as the oil pump), I would *strongly* recommend getting the car trailered to a VAG specialist/Skoda dealer to be properly diagnosed. Don't EVER drive your car with oil pressure issues (even if its just a failed sensor).

Sounds good. Who do you think would be good people to go to - to get this done? We have an independant VAG specialist here in Edinburgh - Autohaus. Any recommendations?

Welcome to Octavia MK3 section. The ACT engine is fine; no major issues with the unit. Like all VAG products, please use them, do regular oil and filter changes and the car will keep you sweet for many years. Also....no annoying MK4 MIB screen issues (dig dig dig)....so best keep this car in good nick. Re: mileage. Perfectly possible. I picked my L&K 2019/2020 with 12.2k miles on the clock. Low mileage examples are out there, but with lack of mileage causing more issues than cars with mileage on them, I would go through it with a fine toothcomb. Oil/Filter intermediate needs to be done and also a new cabin air filter/air filter (this is my OCD speaking here).

I agree with Admin Dean. Screen is phoobard'd. I can see that there was a revision M on the screen part number. This means that VAG revised the hardware, obviously due to an issue.

Usually around the pump housing itself. HumbleMechanic (on Youtube) recently did a MK7 Golf video on how to replace the waterpump. Its quite involved.

I'm afraid I didn't. Car is no longer with me. Skoda quoted me a multi-thousand pound bill to fix the issue. They really need plastic welding to put back on, but couldn't find anybody locally to do that.

Its close but probably no cigar. You own a MK3; use MK3 bits! A quick ebay check reveals: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256382161449

Having the oil sitting at 98C is fine. How old is the engine oil and when was the last oil/filter change done? My next thought (although I'm not too familiar with the 1.8TSI) is that I want to *very carefully* clean out the cooler groups/package at the front of the car. Make sure that the radiator, oil cooler, intercooler, (transmission cooler/HVAC cooler) are all clear and clean on debris. This might require carefully disconnecting out the cooling package, disassembling it and making sure there is no blockages. For reference (and only because I keep on forgetting this) - Australia is still in Summer in January, so sufficient cooling and airflow is important.

Hello Peeps, Been piling on the miles on my 2019/69 plate Octavia L&K. Lovely car. On 18" low profile tyres 225/40 ZR18. We also own a Golf of a similar era and I notice how better and less crashy the suspension is on rough road services. For such a plush car, I am expecting more 'waft' and less harsh riding. Having taken part on several postings about the 18" Vs 19" wheels and tyres, I'm not unhappy with the wheels per-say; I am aiming to better ride handling for the L&K on the slightly dodgy roads up here in Scotland. I know the suspension profile is different between the Octavia and Golf; I am looking for more compliant suspension (maybe springs with a softer profile/more spring turns to give more compliance.) Maybe ride quality something akin to what would be an R-Line in terms of the VW line-up?? I like the standard firmness, I think I'm looking for springs that are initially soft and then harder further down their travel. Had a look at Bilstein and also at Koni. Happy to look at other suppliers too. Happy to stick with a passive system; maybe look at a semi-active system with more compliant springs? Thoughts please.

It's also potentially the cap to the header tank failing. Might be worth changing it out for a new cap to see if that stops it blowing coolant out of the overflow.