varaderoguy

There are two sets for sale. Trying to sell off all my odds and sods of Skoda stuff. I have a set of OEM Indicator repeaters - 5E0.949.102 and 5E0.949.101 originally from a 2017 MK3.5 Octavia 1.0 tsi SE spec car. Should fit all MK3.5 cars. Would like £20 + £3.50 P&P. Full working. email: max(at)maxeaves.co.uk / 0797 369 20 21 or PM me via this forum.

I think that having the engine running is less than ideal in this case. Three reasons: 1) it wastes fuel idling the vehicle 2) it can potentially cause the car to throw CANBUS errors if it suddenly stops seeing the MIB system with the engine running. 3) The service guide states that you need to connect the vehicle up to a battery maintainer whilst you do this activity. VAG would not have given this advice on the servicing guide if it wasn't the correct way to do it. You add in an extra element of risk doing it with the engine running.

I would allow yourself about 20 to 30 mins depending on the speed of your sd card.

Motor flap for sure in that case. CANBUS should have thrown an error to confirm that.

Sounds like you need a new blower motor and fan. Suspect that the cardon between the fan and blades has failed. Please also check your cabin air filter in the Glovebox to make sure it is not blocked.

The official way of doing it is with a battery charger connected. Not doing that brings in a risk of your system shutting down due to low battery voltage which is a bad thing in the middle of a firmware update. High risk.... don't do it.

Kinda normal on Octavia MK3 TDI's. It either requires a new strut-top or lubrication of the struct-top.

oohhh....be super careful here. I am aware that 2.0 TDI engines (Euro 5 and 6) should have normal glowplugs on 1,2 and 4 (at least on 150 and 184bhp engines). Cylinder 3 has the special glow-plug in it with sensors. I've recently seen a spate of these (age related) - especially cylinder 3. Basically, it means the glowplugs have getting out of specification for the engine to operate correctly. However, there are numerous different engine codes and VAG do build engines differently for different markets. Can you identify what your engine would be (e.g. something like CUNA)? Firstly, I hope your garage coded in the new battery properly. If not, you will get a host of issues on your car cropping up. Secondly, I know the sensor glowplug is definitely more expensive that the non-sensing plugs and this is why cylinder 3 is often overlooked. General rule of thumb, if one plug is failing, its time to replace all of them. You also need a different tool to remove the sensoring plug.

Semantics dear boy - semantics. Clearing up my earlier statement, the Octavia design works well for European drivers (who drive on the right), but badly for UK drivers (who drive on the left); however, I understand the norms of LHD and RHD and I should have used those standard terms.

Yes, the fix design for this situation works well for the European (right hand drive), but badly for left hand drive markets. It would have made more sense to put the emergency lock on the passenger side door....but who am I anyway?

Okay - your 2019 car would have been filled with G13 coolant (ready mixed) for UK climate. However, due to complexities and the issues with leaky silica teabags etc in the coolant bottles, VAG have now decided that they will replace it with G12evo. G13 has been deprecated and G12evo has replaced it. Coolant in VAG world is a nightmare. It started with G11, then G12, G12+, G12++, G13 and we now now back at G12evo. Its all to do with the chemical composition. G13 is more environmentally friendly than G12. Never use G13 concentrate or G12evo concentrate. Always dilute them (with de-mineralised) water down to the correct dilutions depending on what you are protecting down to: In Kent and SE England, you will be okay down to -20C protection. In Scotland, you might want to make that closer to -30C protection (we got down to -18C last winter in Scotland). The most important thing (especially if you remove the silica teabag) is that the coolant should be renewed every 5 years.

Yes - its toast. The screen driver has probably failed. You can either get a replacement screen - the headunit in the glove box will be fine. If you need to get a replacement system, why not upgrade to either a SOP4.x MIB2.5 Bolero or Amunsden unit. It will need to be coded in though for your car. Speak to @pab567 who can help.

Supermarket fuels on their own - long-term are not good for vehicles and fuel standards are different on a country/country basis (as the OP was based in Romania). However, we seem to get into this issue on a posting/posting issue and its getting stupid and disrespectful. I drive huge amounts of miles; I know what the cheaper fuels do to vehicles - they drive poorly, yield poor MPG, make the engine sound terrible and I've seen inside the valves and cylinder heads of cars that run exclusively on these fuels. Its not good. Fuel additives are there to try and improve the situation; either by adding back in additional lubricants and cetane that are taken out by the desulphurisation processes (diesel) or adding in lubricants and improving the RON values of Petrol. These lubricants are there to keep the various engine components happier. We are each entitled to our own opinions and experience; whilst you might not agree - please be polite in your disagreement.

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No - they don't tend to rise steadily. Especially an issue if you stop/start the car. Unless the car is overheating or loosing coolant, you don't need to worry.

Okay - its probably worth running some EGR cleaner through the car. Peeps think I'm into this stuff for kick-back, but it keeps the TDI engine working very sweetly: https://www.hydra-int.com/diesel-power-blast.html you only need a very small dose (not even the 1:1500 ratio). Basically, the improvement of the cetane in the fuel additive will improve running, keep the DPF and EGR and turbo actuator clean.

Cambelt is done due to the age of the belt - its either 5 years or roughly 100000 miles.

This is symptomatic of a falling battery. Get the battery checked out and check the SOC (state of charge) to see what the battery is doing.

There are two ways forward here; you can either delete all of the files and put the new files onto the card and install the new map files OR: You need to format the SD Card to a small cluster size. Assuming SD Card is drive E: for example: format E: /FS:FAT32 /A:4096 /Q Others might want to chip in - as I'm not a Windows person..... One formatted, re-insert the drive and put the files onto the SD Card again.

You can do a forced re-gen - via VCDS or ODBEleven Pro. As previously mentioned, it isn't a panacea of fault resolution. You may have to have the DPF manually cleaned out if push comes to shove. Heat is what you need to fix this; short journeys kill DPF's.

7L6941329B is the control module to control the motors and the lights - but not the actual motor itself.

You can drive immediately. Gaskets don't need curing time. If the mechanic said they do, then it has put sealant into it..... Ask the mechanic to take some photos before you agree to have to work done and phone around some other VAG specialists. It might be easier to get a breakdown company to move the car to a more appropriate place and get the work done properly.

You need to speak with @pab567 who will hopefully be able to assist.

ooohh - @fabdavrav - I think there is a bug in Briskoda - I'll let administrators know. I quoted posting from @3rdoctavia and it seems to have put your username against that. The quotation boxes are generated automatically when you highlight text. Sorry - please don't take offence. Its a bug....

One of two things has gone wrong here. The MIB system is now in emergency boot-mode. You have either tried to patch the system with SOP2.x or SOP4.x firmware. Version x4xx firmware won't work on x3xx systems - or you have corrupt files on your SD Card or you have extracted them incorrectly. Just make sure you have the correct SOP3.x firmware for your system (0363 is your latest), then copy that software onto a freshly formatted SD Card, then restart the MIB unit. You will also need to remove any other SD card in the system other than your update SD card. You also need to make sure that you haven't copied the files using a MAC - as this leaves files on the SD Card that stops the upgrade from working properly. Use Windows or Linux for this operation.