varaderoguy

Probably worth getting a short vid posted up here or an audio file of some kind.....one person's Moo'ing is quite different to another person's idea of what a moo sounds might be....joking aside....audio/video pls.

Oddly enough - if you phone up your local Skoda dealer, they will probably have a good offer for a spare wheel kit (including all the tools, the strap and the foam insert needed to get wheel bolts on/off etc). When I had to do this for a VRS I used to own, it made sense to go down this route.

I've seen that a lot of 'budget' branded brakes and discs aren't as good as tolerance as the OEMs - and therefore the pads clonk as they move around in the carrier. Probably best sticking with new OEM pads and discs....

There is a possibility that as your car was an MY13 build, it might not have the stop/start (and in which case, you might not need to code up your new battery, but that's not a hard/fast rule). If you have a genuine Ross-Tech system, I think (if I remember) rightly - there is two or three ways of coding up the battery (i.e. the modules seem to change from year/year and therefore the method of coding changes. Have a look here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

Oh - our friend P2102 - its your accelerator pedal. The Potentiometer has failed/is failing. You need to replace the pedal itself. Its highly unlikely that the connector for the pedal is not connected, but none-the-less, worth checking,

I would make sure you reset the MIB system. Most dealers don't know how to do this; I had to do this on my 2019 when I collected it in December.

Well, I'm guessing at the sequence here. If you are using E10 fuel, it is highly likely that water in the fuel (attracted by the ethernol) might have caused the petrolium to freeze. Try using some E5 and from what I can see is available - 98RON for a tank or so. I suspect that you might have some bad fuel which is causing these issues. My guess is that some dirt or sludge has partially blocked the injector for cylinder 1. This will cause the ECU to try and manage the problem - and so that you don't get excessive fuel in the oil or cylinder washing occuring, the ECU has disabled firing on that cylinder. I am hopeful that a decent tank of 98RON will fix your issues, but it maybe a rough ride using up the old fuel. I would also then stick with 98RON if you can do as you should get better MPG and the smoother power delivery. IMHO - 95E10 should be avoided.

What version of firmware are you running on your MIB Columbus system?

I'm over in the Scottish Borders if you need me.

Not too terrible. Unhook the centre plastic with spuggers - which should give you access to the area where the button console is based. Make sure you order the same (or revised version) part number - as there are many different options available for these switches. Its one module.

It is possible that you have an air leak with the turbo, but that would probably throw a MAF sensor fault - or you have an exhaust leak somewhere. Maybe worth paying for a diagnostic session with a VAG specialist - a quick google shows there is one in Wallingford (I do know this dealer when I used to live down 'souf) https://www.brightwellgarage.com/volkswagen-services

I suppose it depends on whether you plan on keeping the car long term and whether you are worried about retail value etc. I personally use Skoda / VW dealers as their all-in-plans tend to be a cost effective way of keeping the cars working as they should, but of course, it is entirely up to you. I think the niggles are when there is an issue and getting the specialist knowledge. Another alternative is finding a good VAG specialist. If you just want to do a oil change and filter, this is relatively easy to do yourself (a pair of front ramps and the correct tools - its not too hard) and the service light can be reset without too many issues.

We might have to wait until somebody who has the Wabasto in their Octy - comes along. Its not a very common option here in the UK unless you have a camper van or something similar. Have you tried speaking with them? Webasto Thermo & Comfort UK Limited Webasto House White Rose Way, Doncaster Carr, DN4 5JH Tel: +44 1302 322232 Email: [email protected]

oh - sorry you didn't get far on that one. What you can do - is enable diagnostic mode on the MIB system via VCDS or ODBEleven. I am sure that one of the functions it will then show you if you are getting a signal from the GPS or not.

That error code is saying that the fuel pressure in the pressure rail is too low. Either pump problem or fuel pressure regulator issue. The black smoke is caused by the car trying to over compensate by enriching the mixture. You will find your long term fuel trims are probably maxed out and the fact the glow plug is showing just means you have a fueling issue. Also check you don't have a bad batch of fuel from somewhere or that the fuel filter is not blocked. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16471/P0087/000135

I have to deal with Western Volkwagen in Edinburgh and West End Skoda for our Golf and Octavia (although it would be lovely if I could take the Octavia to Western VW in Fort Kinnard as its soo much easier to get to). In terms of booking; West End Skoda were operating 6-8 weeks out, Western VW were operating 4 weeks out. You can already get servicing packages for Skodas up to 10 years old anyway - nothing new there. It just that VW's were only restricted up to 7 years old for servicing packages. I don't think the screenshot above is much more that VW acknowledging that the owners cannot afford to buy new cars and that the 3 years and swap-car routine that has been pervaded for the past x years model is now broken. They are just adjusting to the market conditions.....and anyway....we [in this section] love our MK3/3.5 Octavia....so long may they roll on.

Of course you can do whatever you want for your car and for low mileage owners, fixed servicing is probably fine. I just fret about the mechanics of the vehicle. Ideally, everyone should rely on the oil condition sensor in the vehicle for determining when a service is due. That's my perspective. @Rooted it is good to be reminded of the schedule and the difference....and yes, my brain is probably wired the old way of doing things.

The panel gaps look like they are all over the shot. The Body Shop is right - they are basically saying that the frame could be out of kilter and that the repairs that have been done are not good. That panel gaping is not normal and I might suggest that this car has been in a front end incident. Did you get a report on the car before buying it? I am thinking something like a "carvertical" check - where at least you could see what damage was caused which meant it became a Cat N write off.

Like all faults that peeps bring to us here on Briskoda, Could I please ask that a proper scan of the car is done via VCDS or ODBEleven first? We are assuming that this car is a TSI245 engined beasty. Engine noise rattles from cold are not usual, but do need investigating. My concern is that the timing chain adjuster has stopped working properly or your timing chain has stetched - something that is a problem if the oil is not regularly changed.

Ouch - that's not good. It sounds like the storage memory which holds the Operating system for the MIB unit has corrupted. This does occassionally happen. I would probably suggest sticking with an existing VAG unit (only because you will loose a load of information about the car if you get a generic headunit. Speak with @pab567 who can probably sort you out with a new headunit.

Can we have a read-out / print out from either ODBEleven or VCDS please?

For us imperial folk here in the UK, that's a 93k mile service. Firstly, don't rely on any stickers. Secondly, whilst you can have fixed interval servicing, I wouldn't recommend it (especially if you are planning to keep the car long term). The car should be on variable servicing and @Stonekeeper is right. Best keep the oil changed every 10,000 miles. To show you the remaining service schedule before servicing due, go to the MIB system, go to Vehicle/Car and go to Settings. Now go to Servicing. This will show you how many miles you have before you are due a next service. If you car gets all shouty (because that's what it looks like its just done on you), book the car in for a service right now. At least get the oil and filter service done if nothing else. Discuss your service schedule with your Skoda dealer.

I would definately investigate Darkside Developments based in Barnsley. They are amazing when it comes to performance tuning. Re: TDI engines. Your engine will probably make 190bhp from standard, but just to let you know that if you want *reliable* improved performance, the TDI engines probably won't make anymore than about 220-230bhp without some serious hardware improvements.

Hello IanVFR750, I used Sighthill branch in Edinburgh - and its West End Skoda. Thanks Max

Hey there, Is the car throwing any codes at all? Thanks Max