Monkhai

So looking at all sorts of EV's most seem to have high list prices, so it's going to be lease/PCP or a subscription. Sadly our company don't run an EV salary sacrifice scheme, so that's out. What do people who have purcased one find is the best way to "own" one? The cars we're looking at need to have an official range of 300 miles and a real range not much less, along with at least 100kW charging, ideally more. There is some room around that as real world is king. For example, the ipace is only 100kW and 292 miles, but achieves 275 real world... which is more than other 330 mile cars that get 250 real world.

I saw something similar on an older Skoda, although i only remember one cut out and it was more briefly losing headlights lights or power steering going off etc. Dealer couldn’t find anything obvious and said bring it in if it happens again. It did, but as the battery was 7+ years old and cheaper than a diagnostic I changed it for a good quality new one. All problems went away and never came back. I imagine the battery is struggling, especially if it’s been parked up for a long while. Funny thing with modern electronics is they appear very sensitive to the power supply.

No idea on the rumours, but first thing to do is find out if the grant is paid on delivery or order date. Other thing is to look at it and how much deposit you put down. If you paid £500 but stand to save a couple of thousand, then you might as well cancel and reorder. Until it’s released you won’t really know.

Checked where the cable leaves the car into the boot? In many vehicles of all makes that area gets more damage than those outside of flexible trunking. Doors often have the same issues of cracked cables.

Sounds a bit Racist to me blaming chips from South Korea... I mean if it's samsung blame them (Doubt it is). If it's another company name them. Or you might think it's just a particular dealer trying in their own way (which looks a lot like racism) trying to make people doubt the korean car manufacturers. Kind of like people did skoda a few years back.

Press the phone button... Then you can press the gear icon at the bottom. It will probably give you the word bluetooth somewhere in there. This will allow you to manage the paired devices. FWIW with MIB1 it won't be carplay with the screen sync, just bluetooth audio.

Does the radio have a phone button on it?

Don’t get me wrong I know you can do zones on systems like yours. And that internet based temperature compensation is to the nearest area rather than my houses true value. Still better than heating regardless of the temperature in an hour/externally. I was just saying I couldn’t just add it to mine as my piping would require redoing to allow for piping to appropriate zone valves. That would involve much mess and cost in a system that’s in and is likely run to minimise pipe use not allow for upgradability.

So our boiler modulates the flame/gas flow using load and return temperatures. It does have a three way valve, but no it’s not truest local external temperature compensated. (BTW you don’t need to use the internet temperature it can use learned time to heat/cool too) I know temperature compensated systems are standard in Europe, but they’re not common here. What the Evohome gives me is a programmable stat in every room, where I can turn every room into a zone. Each zone/room can have its own temperature set points automatically changing 6 times a day and additional overrides. I can heat only the room I am in automatically based on times or a press of a button to override. The system you describe doesn’t do that without zone valves. It will however probably be more efficient in pure gas to heat terms. As an example the south of the house got to 28 degrees, with the north ground floor at 18 today so the need to zone the house is obvious. If I was putting a system in from scratch I would have an external thermostat, and six zone valves with stats. As a cost to retrofit when it’s built as a single system with no thought to zoning this way is way cheaper. I’m much more comfortable, saved a huge chunk on the gas so far and didn’t have to make any holes in the walls/floors. Total cost including 7 TRV, the controller/gateway, relay, extra remote stat and fitting was about £350. Am I completely missing a point here? EDIT: Just put some clothes away and noticed a cable down the flue which is labelled IFOS. A quick google suggests it may actually be an external temperature sensor on the boiler flue which the boiler uses internally.

So yes different needs/goals. Your way is probably more efficient, our house really required 2/3 zones, so this is cheaper than zone valves. Its a good easy compromise

Weather compensation using online data, so not as accurate as real compensation. The boiler has an integrated thermal store as opposed to a separate tank and I has plenty of flow temperature monitoring as well as a flow diverter to make sure it’s not heating if not needed. No it’s not your system, but every room sets it’s own temperature, switches off if a window is open, has individual set points over a day and monitors how long each room takes to warms up/cool to optimise heat up/turn off. I’d say it’s about as good as you can get in a house that has a standard Uk boiler and just a single stat/zone. That’s of course just my opinion, others may like their way, but it’s done what I needed here.

Moved it to the Mk2 Octy for you. I assume somebody has checked it's diesel not petrol. Far too easily done and also overlooked when you're not thinking about the contents of the tank when doing work. I seem to remember there were some issues with starters that wouldn't crank fast enough to start a warm car and then later at all, but that's from memory so I could be wrong. Worth checking the earth strap and leads to the starter are all in good condition and undamaged/not rusted. I'd suggest looking at fault codes from a VCDS scan if you have somebody local to you who is willing to help. Otherwise this might be helpful if you're in a DIY mood:

Further update in case anyone is looking for a new system. Evohome has been fantastic. All the rooms are individually set based on occupancy time and comfort is much improved. Due to only using what you need when/where you need it, our gas bills were a good third below the previous years and I would say most of that is due to the change. Sadly we don’t have an open therm boiler, but it’s a big jump. We’re actually warmer/more comfortable and have saved energy. Anyone that’s considering a smart stat. Definitely add it to the list to consider 👍

Very old thread, but an appropriate time to update our system. We went evohome and I have to say, it’s fantastic:

Tbh I would remove the screws at the rear only the front liners and pull put the leaf build up. I’d then flush it through from the top with some water check it flows then put the archliner screws back. Even if it’s not that it’s a good place to start and good general maintenance.

Due to a large number of similar threads created by the user, these are locked and the two with most content were merged. The resulting thread can be found:

It’s possible that there was a leaf buildup in the drains. If you let it run freely out you may have cleared it. Also check the seals on the door carriers as that could explain damp carpets.

Worth adding your battery was a bit expensive, as even retail halfords is less: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html They're made by a reputable company and actually a very good battery. Trade get a discount on that too. As such £179 for a battery, seems a lot since Halfords are not exactly known to be the cheapest. The £25 fitting service even mentions registering the new battery with the car (not saying I'd use it, but if they know, you'd hope a specialist garage would have known). Worth calling a couple of main dealers and getting a price for supply and fit (inc coding) of a new battery and see how it compares to other prices you get. If it's about the same it's usually worth going to the dealer.

I would put a new AGM battery in and correctly code the battery management system. The problem could be as simple as the car thinking you have an old battery, but as you don't know the state of the replacement and it's your income, I'd just start with a known good battery and a known good coding. It could be that the new battery sat for a year almost unused, which would kill it too. The cars here have been on a smart charger once every 4-6 weeks during lockdown. Others who didn't do that ended up with dead batteries that re-charged, worked for a bit and then didn't have enough grunt to start the car. A jump start/charge would fix this and then the same would happen again a little later. It could also be the charging system, but a coding will affect how that behaves, so I circle back to the new battery, correct coding and see how it behaves from there.

It was fairly normal to be able to pour a little bit out of intercooler hoses on older versions of the engine so I can move around especially with an EGR in play. I’m not an expert or normal/not normal, but I do know they won’t be dry.

I think the flushing oil thing depends on a number of factors, including if the car is PD, how long you leave it in and how dirty the oil is. Helping clean a car up that had been “ serviced” every year but the oil filter date was years old and the oil like treacle I did a few things. 1) Immediate change of all filters and oil change. 2) Early second oil and filter after about 5000 miles. 3) Normal oil and filter change at correct interval. By that time the oil was only as dirty as you’d expect on the change. At the next change I warmed up the car a bit, added a can of flushing additive to the old oil, then gently drove the car around the block. Upon draining the oil was filthy, so I put in the cheapest oil of the right spec and a new filter and drove the car for a week then did it again with good oil. It was a huge effort, but since then the oil has stayed thinner/cleaner a lot longer after each oil change and come out in good condition. I’ve not put a flush in since and nor would I add anything to the oil that claims to improve it. However what I can say s a suitable flushing oil used sensibly and only occasionally if required isn’t a bad thing. In your case I’d do (as you suggest) a couple of short oil changes first, but if all else fails it might be worth considering a one off. edit: I didn’t realise it was four months old when I replied. Oops. Did you sort it out?

Have a search and you might be able to find another thread with a vrs owner with this engine snd high oil consumption. I believe it was a damaged piston/piston rings. As for that oil in your turbo pipe… there will always be a tiny amount that can get there. I’d suggest that he amount you have pulled out isn’t that abnormal. I would get the individual cylinders compression tested before throwing money at parts. EDIT: found the thread

If it’s the same as mine, the divider is only suitable if you do not have the variable boot floor 👍 Edit.. Thst manual now says on lowest position only. I’d give them a call as they were helpful to me. As the non variable floor is pretty soft, I imagine you’d want some suitable ply etc underneath to strengthen it anyway before installing any point loads.

If it's just a secure folder, then the above free software will so the same using any USB drive

It has… I’m fairly certain the external light circuits had to have switched live and neutral when we had some work done. I’m guessing there sort of things are your preferred route: https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/switches/cat7320002?smartcompatibility=smart&switchproducttype=light