Monkhai

Which is exactly what I do. Eco engine mode, sports steering, everything else normal 👍

So a heat pump opperates constantly. I get what you're saying about keeping heat into the system, but as we already have a pull close to 100A single phase, then it isn't about just that. I will either need to put in 3 phase (Bonus of 11/22kW charging) or add a battery/panels. Both cost significant sums up front so when added to the higher price of the car makes it harder to self finance. With this, it's all down to personal opinion and risk aversion. I may be right, you may be right, neither of us may be right. Servicing wise of course it's lower on an EV, but then you still need to do brake pads, the coolant ciricuit and the usual gubbins. What I find odd is that as may garages won't touch EVs, you find the cost to do things for EVs on the network appears (admitedly only from what I've read) to be substantially higher than non-EV cars. Well you combine the charge data with the MOT data and if the car has done substantially more miles than logged against it it's a fine and you need to prove you don't owe the tax. Where there's a will theres a way... plus arguing with HMRC is rarely a good idea for an individual. Not saying it will happen, just that it's not hard to see how it could happen.

Make sure all the radiators have standard TRV valves as that way if you do go evohome, then you can just unscrew the old head and put the evhome TRV on. You might also want to look at getting your new Rads oversized sufficiently that they could heat the room from a lower temperature heat source (45 degrees water temp is what I've been told). That way if you ever go heat pump, you don't need to necessarily change them. They do a low input temperature special version of many rads, but I don't know if they can cope with the higher input temperatures too. 👍 This was HR91 kit I used, although sadly the price appears to have increased a reasonable amount in the last couple of months (hardly a surprise with gas prices). https://theevohomeshop.co.uk/honeywell-home-evohome-connected-value-packs/321-honeywell-evohome-essentials-pack-atp926g3001.html I added 1 additional TRV whcich i fitted to the middle floor halls, which allows the hall radiators to be dropped lower. This probably wasn't necessary. The rooms not on HR91 which are either on standard TRV or bypass, just run whenever any other radiator runs, so this gives me the ability to shut off the other rooms and run the hall/towel rails (on standard TRV) for 30 minutes if we have guests in the summer. The only other thing I added was the controller wall mount plate, which i placed in the position of the previous thermostat. It allows charging of the face plate and keeps it out of the way, which we like. Finally useful to know, the controller uses 2 x NiMH batteries, which last ages. The TRV use 2x Alkaline batteries, that last 2 heating seasons approx. I just changed the first pair, however replaced them with enerloop batteries that work fine.

Again if battery tech changes, then actually the old batteries become a disposal cost, not an asset. I'm not confident enough things won't change enough in 5 years, that the current batteries/cars will be worth more. Like options on a new car, they make make it more desirable vs a 5 year old petrol/diesel, but doesn't necessarily mean it'll get 50% of initial value @ 3 years. Fuel duty on home charging is relatively easy to do, as all new chargers at home are mandated to be smart chargers if you want the grant. So all you do is ask the smart charger how much went into the car and add that the the electric bill. If it can't talk to the government approved servers at the energy provider, then it can't charge. Not really hard to do. Mileage based car tax, I can see. Rapid charging being heavily taxed, less so, because then you get people hanging onto older diesels to do the 600 mile round trips. Long and short, so far it seems that the lease and care or even subscriptions are the models that make sense.

I agree about the space/size not being an issue. Having sat in a golf and an ID3 back to back, even though they're almost identical in external length/width, the ID.3 has much more interior space. This is mostly down to the lack of bonnet length vs the golf as it doesn't need to hide an engine under there. I'd say an ID3 has at least as much room as a golf and you could probably compare to vehicles half a class up, rather than a class down.

Tried that, and if the other half can cope with the horrible touchscreen interfaces VW have, with a real world winter range of 250 miles, then she'll have it and I'll have a diesel as I do the longer journeys. That 250 miles is for a real world visit to families, with almost no charging bar a 3 pin plug, so it's her condition. Sadly the VW user interfaces from the mk8/ID3 platform are truely toxic as she is complaining about it a lot. At that point she will get a small diesel estate and I'll end up in electric. Luckily my longer routes tend to involve a good amount of motorway, so I can start nearly full, DC charge either at the end of the motorway up to 80% or at the destination, then go from there. Still I'd need a real 250 miles to make it viable too. A second hand leaf/zoe is tempting and the range on the newer zoe is not too bad, albeit not quite in the stated range. It's a tough one to try and balance right now. I imagine that's why the lease and care deals are what most dealers are pushing for EV. Pay lots per months and we have a nice care to sell in 3-5 years. Sadly one of the cars is over 15 years old, so there's no chance on that one. This last MOT was expensive and wouldn't have been done had the second hand value of cars not been so high. As it was a banger of unknown standing was more than the repair bill. You really think so? I'm not convinced, but then I was lucky enough to have a previous diesel on PCP not outright so didn't get exposed as badly as I could have to the diesel price drop caused by dieselgate. The sums I've been working on are over 5 years, but the maths on the leccy make sense. However how to finance the substantially higher purchase price when we've already got to factor in 3 phase/solar and batteries to manage it is the main issue. (Our peak load is already pushing up against the 100A before heat pumps/EV/etc). What I will say is servicing is not zero, as you've got coolant changes (battery cooling circuits I believe) and some other items are inexplainably more expensive for an electric car.

Just to clarify here, when I say "buy", i'm not talking outright, but leased/PCP etc for 2-4 years.

The HR91 rather than HR92 TRV's minus the displays help massively as they've about 60% of the price. Then add in a starter home pack of the controller (Which now includes the gateway, saving more money), the relay and 6 TRV at a very reasonable price and it makes a big difference. I agree when I looked at some of the old configs and all the parts or not using a starter pack, it stacks up quite quickly.

My Logic is that I don't intend to dump 40-50k on a car that in 4 years time is likely to be useless in terms of range/charging vs what's available at the time. I have a feeling that second hand values would be toast if somebody comes out with a 400-500 mile range, super fast charging that actually works and the like. It's a huge risk, which would mean if that was the only way, then it'd be another diesel instead.

So looking at all sorts of EV's most seem to have high list prices, so it's going to be lease/PCP or a subscription. Sadly our company don't run an EV salary sacrifice scheme, so that's out. What do people who have purcased one find is the best way to "own" one? The cars we're looking at need to have an official range of 300 miles and a real range not much less, along with at least 100kW charging, ideally more. There is some room around that as real world is king. For example, the ipace is only 100kW and 292 miles, but achieves 275 real world... which is more than other 330 mile cars that get 250 real world.

I saw something similar on an older Skoda, although i only remember one cut out and it was more briefly losing headlights lights or power steering going off etc. Dealer couldn’t find anything obvious and said bring it in if it happens again. It did, but as the battery was 7+ years old and cheaper than a diagnostic I changed it for a good quality new one. All problems went away and never came back. I imagine the battery is struggling, especially if it’s been parked up for a long while. Funny thing with modern electronics is they appear very sensitive to the power supply.

No idea on the rumours, but first thing to do is find out if the grant is paid on delivery or order date. Other thing is to look at it and how much deposit you put down. If you paid £500 but stand to save a couple of thousand, then you might as well cancel and reorder. Until it’s released you won’t really know.

Checked where the cable leaves the car into the boot? In many vehicles of all makes that area gets more damage than those outside of flexible trunking. Doors often have the same issues of cracked cables.

Sounds a bit Racist to me blaming chips from South Korea... I mean if it's samsung blame them (Doubt it is). If it's another company name them. Or you might think it's just a particular dealer trying in their own way (which looks a lot like racism) trying to make people doubt the korean car manufacturers. Kind of like people did skoda a few years back.

Press the phone button... Then you can press the gear icon at the bottom. It will probably give you the word bluetooth somewhere in there. This will allow you to manage the paired devices. FWIW with MIB1 it won't be carplay with the screen sync, just bluetooth audio.

Does the radio have a phone button on it?

Don’t get me wrong I know you can do zones on systems like yours. And that internet based temperature compensation is to the nearest area rather than my houses true value. Still better than heating regardless of the temperature in an hour/externally. I was just saying I couldn’t just add it to mine as my piping would require redoing to allow for piping to appropriate zone valves. That would involve much mess and cost in a system that’s in and is likely run to minimise pipe use not allow for upgradability.

So our boiler modulates the flame/gas flow using load and return temperatures. It does have a three way valve, but no it’s not truest local external temperature compensated. (BTW you don’t need to use the internet temperature it can use learned time to heat/cool too) I know temperature compensated systems are standard in Europe, but they’re not common here. What the Evohome gives me is a programmable stat in every room, where I can turn every room into a zone. Each zone/room can have its own temperature set points automatically changing 6 times a day and additional overrides. I can heat only the room I am in automatically based on times or a press of a button to override. The system you describe doesn’t do that without zone valves. It will however probably be more efficient in pure gas to heat terms. As an example the south of the house got to 28 degrees, with the north ground floor at 18 today so the need to zone the house is obvious. If I was putting a system in from scratch I would have an external thermostat, and six zone valves with stats. As a cost to retrofit when it’s built as a single system with no thought to zoning this way is way cheaper. I’m much more comfortable, saved a huge chunk on the gas so far and didn’t have to make any holes in the walls/floors. Total cost including 7 TRV, the controller/gateway, relay, extra remote stat and fitting was about £350. Am I completely missing a point here? EDIT: Just put some clothes away and noticed a cable down the flue which is labelled IFOS. A quick google suggests it may actually be an external temperature sensor on the boiler flue which the boiler uses internally.

So yes different needs/goals. Your way is probably more efficient, our house really required 2/3 zones, so this is cheaper than zone valves. Its a good easy compromise

Weather compensation using online data, so not as accurate as real compensation. The boiler has an integrated thermal store as opposed to a separate tank and I has plenty of flow temperature monitoring as well as a flow diverter to make sure it’s not heating if not needed. No it’s not your system, but every room sets it’s own temperature, switches off if a window is open, has individual set points over a day and monitors how long each room takes to warms up/cool to optimise heat up/turn off. I’d say it’s about as good as you can get in a house that has a standard Uk boiler and just a single stat/zone. That’s of course just my opinion, others may like their way, but it’s done what I needed here.

Moved it to the Mk2 Octy for you. I assume somebody has checked it's diesel not petrol. Far too easily done and also overlooked when you're not thinking about the contents of the tank when doing work. I seem to remember there were some issues with starters that wouldn't crank fast enough to start a warm car and then later at all, but that's from memory so I could be wrong. Worth checking the earth strap and leads to the starter are all in good condition and undamaged/not rusted. I'd suggest looking at fault codes from a VCDS scan if you have somebody local to you who is willing to help. Otherwise this might be helpful if you're in a DIY mood:

Further update in case anyone is looking for a new system. Evohome has been fantastic. All the rooms are individually set based on occupancy time and comfort is much improved. Due to only using what you need when/where you need it, our gas bills were a good third below the previous years and I would say most of that is due to the change. Sadly we don’t have an open therm boiler, but it’s a big jump. We’re actually warmer/more comfortable and have saved energy. Anyone that’s considering a smart stat. Definitely add it to the list to consider 👍

Very old thread, but an appropriate time to update our system. We went evohome and I have to say, it’s fantastic:

Tbh I would remove the screws at the rear only the front liners and pull put the leaf build up. I’d then flush it through from the top with some water check it flows then put the archliner screws back. Even if it’s not that it’s a good place to start and good general maintenance.

Due to a large number of similar threads created by the user, these are locked and the two with most content were merged. The resulting thread can be found: