Monkhai

To be fair most of the internals are well made on mine, although the capacitor mounting/hole design was a bit "interesting". Ended up having to drill out the PCB to go from a pinhole for the eletrolytic to a marginally larger pinhole for the new non-electrolytic caps. Figured I'd do it right and only once, so lucky I used to occasionally rework PCB as part of my day job. I do know what you mean though, with some speakers looking like they were put together by the work experience person on a bad day.

@Lady Elanore Ooops

For the sake of not having hundred of threads, please direct your comments/posts to this e10 thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e10-fuels/

As above, please direct your posts/questions to the e10-fuels thread in General Automotive Chat https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/490693-e10-fuels/

As above, please direct all posts to the E10 thread mentioned. I'm going to lock this thread so we don't have a proliforation of threads on the same subject.

I used to make them for a theatre and I used reels of Van Damme mic/XLR cable. Nothing fancy but decent quality and in various colours for the sound desk, equipment and microphones. Ditto for the speaker to amp connections, but at that power level I doubt anything made much difference This sort of stuff: https://www.vdctrading.com/shop/van-damme-cable/audio/Single-Channel-Analogue-Audio-Cable/ Reasonable cable, may have been mostly OFC, but nothing fancy, neutrik connectors to take a beating and decent quality leaded/lead free solder. I really do not understand how some people can justify the prices, particularly for digital or XLR cables.

I'm afraid you'll need to give more information than that. - Approx mileage - Where is the mixed diesel coolant showing - Pictures of the level of coolant/fuel mix - Are you sure it's fuel and not oil? - Any diagnosis you've had carried out by a garage/mechanic etc. - Which coolant are you using - Any other symptoms, such as leaks etc.

Perhaps worth using this existing thread instead, as it's better to have the information in one place rather than many:

Mod hat on... Perhaps worth using this existing thread:

From reading the government website it's ok for most cars that don't use a first generation FSI engine. For example I read on there that some mk5 golf can't use it. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol If in doubt, I believe super unleaded doesn't have to be e10 currently (But don't hold me to this and check yourself), so perhaps use that until you are sure.

That’s kind of my problem, bass isn’t better and frequency response doesn’t go as low. With the refurbished tweeters treble isn’t either and might actually say maybe the newer speakers round the treble a bit. I’m sure the 702/703 s2 would be better, but not enough I could justify the price tags. That’s the thing with hifi it includes a big dose of person preference along with diminishing returns. 😂

I auditioned the silver 300 and and 603 (got stand and floor mixed up). Not bad, but not a patch on 25 year old B&W p5 B&W suggested the 702 s2 or 703 s2 were the replacements. Too rich for me I’m afraid.

Redid all the capacitors on my old mid range speakers, changed the fluids on the tweeters and inspected the cones which were all in excellent condition. The electrolytics were not leaking, but some were borderline on spec. Was considering an “upgrade” to MA silver or b&w 603, but was disappointed on the test listen. Speaking to both companies they said it was higher range models which were the equivalent replacements. The eye watering costs of these options made a repair of substantially cheaper pair suddenly the only option. Worrying thing was how midrange speakers no longer live up to those of the recent past.

I had no idea that VW had got on the additive train, but then I drive a diesel. It again makes the point of be careful what is in the additive, as they're not all the same. I wonder what the base is for that.

No worries on the information. In terms of fuel, just do what you're comfortable and happy with as you are the owner/paying for it. If you're in warranty read what is said about fuel and additives in your manual/warranty information as a new car warranty is worth a lot more than a few litres of fuel.

Because when you make a car breath it's own farts (eg send the exhaust into the intake), then the leftover exhausts gases and water vapour being cooled and pushed back in act to dilute the cylinder gases. This reduces the ignition temperature of the cylinder. Lower temperature = less NOx formed. Also there is a reduction in the excess oxygen hanging around (Subject to the engine load/gas requirements), which reduces the opportunity for NOx to form. The trade off, and why you need ECU control, is if you inject too much exhause gas or do it at the wrong time, then you can increase CO/particulate matter and can reduce engine power output. A couple of useful links which may explain some of it: https://x-engineer.org/automotive-engineering/internal-combustion-engines/ice-components-systems/exhaust-gas-recirculation-egr-complete-guide-introduction/ https://dieselnet.com/tech/engine_egr_emissions.php https://mbjarvie.co.uk/egr-valve/ On the supermarket fuel front, I would genuinely love to see a double blind study where people and engineers can tell the difference to the car and it's engine. Be nice to put it to bed once and for all. Sure poor quality fuel/off fuel can massively effect a petrol car, but a branded fuel sat in a storage tank for 3 months is likely to be more problematic than fresh fuel in a supermaket tank. Not saying it's all perfect, but I personally am confident it's not what some think it is. Same goes for fuel additives. They have their place, but you need to be careful, as evidenced by the issues I've see on other peoples cars. For a while I used shell almost exclusively (it was cheapest) and it made no difference when I changed away when prices went up. When i tried a few tanks of the v-power derv, the MPG was noticeably down. I've been running diesels for years and EN590 is way above the fuel requirements for some areas where these engines are sold and used, so I'm more than happy with it. The standard has minimum additive quantities and sulphur levels etc. No car I've ever run has had an issue caused by using whatever fuel I get. At the end of the day it's your car and your money, so it's your choice. Edit: Adding a useful link from a lambda (O2) sensor manufacturer, which details red/white deposits: https://www.denso-am.eu/media/10216/dneu-lambda-sensor-poster-420x594-uk-lo-res.pdf

Bingo… Along with high pressures (compression ratio). They seem to have kept it relatively quiet, but I imagine turbocharged DI petrol cars have pretty high NOx too.

I do seem to remember the seam sealer looking as if it was painted over in other cars. Of course that may depend on where it was and it’s always less obvious on silver. There’s a thread here with water in the box section that had some close up pictures.

mumble mumble, that brand sounds familiar. I could be wrong, but seem to remember an older vw group car I had to change the o2 sensors on used something with that base additive in it. Of course it could have been the older car or any number of other factors. No idea about the most modern diesel ones, but the older diesel millers ones used to be great for a pre MOT cleanup.

I’ve seen o2 sensors and cat on other petrol cars damaged by additives, (I don’t believe it was the one mentioned) which left a brown red deposit on them. I’d avoid any additives, at least whilst you are under warranty.

Aparently the adverts being crazy loud vs the show is by design... and bleeding annoying it is too. This same effect is present on DAB too, I assume because it's not compressed, but you end up with volume levels all over the place which is definely not ok at night. I don't have this problem I have to be honest, but then I think there are many variables beyond just the amp at play. Alluding to LadyE, I do have >10kg of PSU in the device and even though it decodes/downmixes more it is designed purely for stereo or 2.1/2.2 output.

I'd be happy with a warning on the dash telling me I've exceeded the limit, but not the car refusing to go if I put my foot down. AI is definately A, but not necessarily I. At the end of the day if you start to couple this with vision tech, such that the car decides when you can accelrate out of trouble then you're going to find it gets it wrong a lot more than some say. Ditto if the car cuts power mid corner. I'm not one for exceeding speed limits, but I am one for letting the human who could die have the final say.

sorry to see it’s not super simple, but also glad you found it. Sadly it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s a bit of a fight as there are so many possibilities in that location. Fingers crossed, but whilst you’re checking with the dealer I’d probably find a decent local body shop too.

If they’re the ones with the screws through or those external rubber seal with holes, they hold the lights in. There should be screw on plastic washers to keep it tight. If they’re missing, you’ll need to get a pair.

At a guess, the easy one is they didn’t set the belt tensioner correctly. It used to be quite easy to get that wrong, so there wasn’t enough or indeed was too much.