Monkhai

From reading the government website it's ok for most cars that don't use a first generation FSI engine. For example I read on there that some mk5 golf can't use it. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol If in doubt, I believe super unleaded doesn't have to be e10 currently (But don't hold me to this and check yourself), so perhaps use that until you are sure.

That’s kind of my problem, bass isn’t better and frequency response doesn’t go as low. With the refurbished tweeters treble isn’t either and might actually say maybe the newer speakers round the treble a bit. I’m sure the 702/703 s2 would be better, but not enough I could justify the price tags. That’s the thing with hifi it includes a big dose of person preference along with diminishing returns. 😂

I auditioned the silver 300 and and 603 (got stand and floor mixed up). Not bad, but not a patch on 25 year old B&W p5 B&W suggested the 702 s2 or 703 s2 were the replacements. Too rich for me I’m afraid.

Redid all the capacitors on my old mid range speakers, changed the fluids on the tweeters and inspected the cones which were all in excellent condition. The electrolytics were not leaking, but some were borderline on spec. Was considering an “upgrade” to MA silver or b&w 603, but was disappointed on the test listen. Speaking to both companies they said it was higher range models which were the equivalent replacements. The eye watering costs of these options made a repair of substantially cheaper pair suddenly the only option. Worrying thing was how midrange speakers no longer live up to those of the recent past.

I had no idea that VW had got on the additive train, but then I drive a diesel. It again makes the point of be careful what is in the additive, as they're not all the same. I wonder what the base is for that.

No worries on the information. In terms of fuel, just do what you're comfortable and happy with as you are the owner/paying for it. If you're in warranty read what is said about fuel and additives in your manual/warranty information as a new car warranty is worth a lot more than a few litres of fuel.

Because when you make a car breath it's own farts (eg send the exhaust into the intake), then the leftover exhausts gases and water vapour being cooled and pushed back in act to dilute the cylinder gases. This reduces the ignition temperature of the cylinder. Lower temperature = less NOx formed. Also there is a reduction in the excess oxygen hanging around (Subject to the engine load/gas requirements), which reduces the opportunity for NOx to form. The trade off, and why you need ECU control, is if you inject too much exhause gas or do it at the wrong time, then you can increase CO/particulate matter and can reduce engine power output. A couple of useful links which may explain some of it: https://x-engineer.org/automotive-engineering/internal-combustion-engines/ice-components-systems/exhaust-gas-recirculation-egr-complete-guide-introduction/ https://dieselnet.com/tech/engine_egr_emissions.php https://mbjarvie.co.uk/egr-valve/ On the supermarket fuel front, I would genuinely love to see a double blind study where people and engineers can tell the difference to the car and it's engine. Be nice to put it to bed once and for all. Sure poor quality fuel/off fuel can massively effect a petrol car, but a branded fuel sat in a storage tank for 3 months is likely to be more problematic than fresh fuel in a supermaket tank. Not saying it's all perfect, but I personally am confident it's not what some think it is. Same goes for fuel additives. They have their place, but you need to be careful, as evidenced by the issues I've see on other peoples cars. For a while I used shell almost exclusively (it was cheapest) and it made no difference when I changed away when prices went up. When i tried a few tanks of the v-power derv, the MPG was noticeably down. I've been running diesels for years and EN590 is way above the fuel requirements for some areas where these engines are sold and used, so I'm more than happy with it. The standard has minimum additive quantities and sulphur levels etc. No car I've ever run has had an issue caused by using whatever fuel I get. At the end of the day it's your car and your money, so it's your choice. Edit: Adding a useful link from a lambda (O2) sensor manufacturer, which details red/white deposits: https://www.denso-am.eu/media/10216/dneu-lambda-sensor-poster-420x594-uk-lo-res.pdf

Bingo… Along with high pressures (compression ratio). They seem to have kept it relatively quiet, but I imagine turbocharged DI petrol cars have pretty high NOx too.

I do seem to remember the seam sealer looking as if it was painted over in other cars. Of course that may depend on where it was and it’s always less obvious on silver. There’s a thread here with water in the box section that had some close up pictures.

mumble mumble, that brand sounds familiar. I could be wrong, but seem to remember an older vw group car I had to change the o2 sensors on used something with that base additive in it. Of course it could have been the older car or any number of other factors. No idea about the most modern diesel ones, but the older diesel millers ones used to be great for a pre MOT cleanup.

I’ve seen o2 sensors and cat on other petrol cars damaged by additives, (I don’t believe it was the one mentioned) which left a brown red deposit on them. I’d avoid any additives, at least whilst you are under warranty.

Aparently the adverts being crazy loud vs the show is by design... and bleeding annoying it is too. This same effect is present on DAB too, I assume because it's not compressed, but you end up with volume levels all over the place which is definely not ok at night. I don't have this problem I have to be honest, but then I think there are many variables beyond just the amp at play. Alluding to LadyE, I do have >10kg of PSU in the device and even though it decodes/downmixes more it is designed purely for stereo or 2.1/2.2 output.

I'd be happy with a warning on the dash telling me I've exceeded the limit, but not the car refusing to go if I put my foot down. AI is definately A, but not necessarily I. At the end of the day if you start to couple this with vision tech, such that the car decides when you can accelrate out of trouble then you're going to find it gets it wrong a lot more than some say. Ditto if the car cuts power mid corner. I'm not one for exceeding speed limits, but I am one for letting the human who could die have the final say.

sorry to see it’s not super simple, but also glad you found it. Sadly it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s a bit of a fight as there are so many possibilities in that location. Fingers crossed, but whilst you’re checking with the dealer I’d probably find a decent local body shop too.

If they’re the ones with the screws through or those external rubber seal with holes, they hold the lights in. There should be screw on plastic washers to keep it tight. If they’re missing, you’ll need to get a pair.

At a guess, the easy one is they didn’t set the belt tensioner correctly. It used to be quite easy to get that wrong, so there wasn’t enough or indeed was too much.

I would get it scanned with VCDS or a dealer style tool etc as it may give more information. There is a before and after sensor on a DPF, so if either are faulty or not well sealed then there will be problems. I'd be tempted to get a garage to take the car out and log the DPF values from the sensors over a drive cold and in the conditions that set your problem off. Even if it's £100 at a main dealer, it's a lot cheaper than playing swap the parts at random until it's fixed.

What about the rear windscreen wash though? I ask as this was a known problem on previous generations of car, which resulted in a hose popping apart at a connector and filling the boot with screenwash. It's also been known to pop off or leak from the wiper motor link to the pipe and run down the inside of the plastic cover/boot lid. Have you tried putting newspaper etc on the boot floor and spraying a hose at the boot on a standard rain type spray pattern? That will quickly help you see even a small leak. One further area that's in my head, is to check the seals of the rear lights, as if these were not properly attached/sealed or screwed into the car, you could probably get a significant amount of water in through there on a rainy day.

Could be a wrap or a badly carried out rear window removal/replacement. I tend to think a good body shop is probably the best bet unless you have recourse to the original seller. FWIW the price of a new boot panel is a joke, so I’d suggest sooner than later to get it looked at is wise.

Definitely get the timing and tensioner/pulley checked. If the tensioner is wrong that could cause issues which would be expensive. Ditto if you had the water pump done check it. Of course it could be something far less troublesome, but checking for the bad stuff makes sense. Hope you get it sorted 👍

That’s really bad and a basic pressure wash shouldn’t cause that. I take it the rear wash/wipe works. If it’s a hatch make sure when you wash the rear screen it isn’t leaking. For that volume of water to get in there, I would suggest the leak it either from a pipe or coming in from the top via a faulty seal.

As small as you can go and still fit over the brakes 👍 Of the two you mention definitely not 19” and if you can get 17” to work, that would be my preferred choice.

Get a better garage! Not being rude, but if you see a leak and they can’t find it there is something wrong with the garage. Changing parts you have, it would have been cheaper to go to a specialist or main dealer than play swap the parts. If it was a head gasket it’s unlikely you’d see a leak but you would likely get exhaust gasses in the coolant. Have you: - looked for crusty pink deposits around the engine? These will be around the leak. - checked the coolant for exhaust gases - checked the various coolant sensors for perished seals/leaks - checked the EGR cooler - checked the oil cooler - checked the pipes/clips - checked the thermostat/housing.

This looks very similar to an error I saw on a friends polo 1.2. The answer in the end was to remove and replace the 02 sensor. Cleaning the sensor worked for a little while, but sadly the root cause was red deposits from a petrol fuel additive, which had coated the manifold, and both 02 sensors. I say both, as not long after fixing the front one (couple of months) the rear one started playing up and had exactly the same coating on it. As the sensors were not expensive the latter was changed straight off, although luckily said friend had a very long breaker bar as it was certainly quite tight in the exhaust.

Scrap yard… Then add a 4 way wheel brace 👍