Monkhai

I get that GB is not UK... But moving away from ISO codes and the rest Of course that's only my personal opinion and I could well be in the minority.

You've met the french police right? (I mean you do live there 😜) British (I guess others too) car in France doing anything at all and it's pull them over and fine them. The UK plate/sticker is required for travelling through Europe, so I imagine it'll be a field day with this change. OT, but I know of sombody who had a renault that needed the bumper removed to have a headlight changed that had gone en route, who got fined because they couldn't change it at the roadside. This was despite them having the correct replacement bulb in the car. To be fair to the French, it was probably just a grumpy officer, as aparantly the local dealer was very accomodating and apologetic. I can't say I understand why they can't just leave it as GB or GB with the union jack. Either way, the page is very confusing and there should be a single standard for all of the UK not a lot of options. That looks a lot better than some of the huge UK/country flag with letters in them mess. Once things have settled, I'd probably get a set for the car to save with a sticker.

When looking at old wheels I seem to remember the MK1 used a PCD of 5x100 and the MK2 onwards used PCD of 5x112. As such to fit your car, it must be a PCD of 5x112. If this doesn't match up, then the bolt holes on the wheels won't match up with the bolt holes on the hub and the wheels won't be able to be attached to the car. As above if the factory fit option is as detailed on the Dorado, I'd find something from a skoda in a scrap yard that is as close as possible to that as a trial set. Condition of the tyres isn't relevant, as long as they're road legal for the purpose of a quick test before deciding.

I've never seen anything like it myself, but have you had the engine mounts all checked?

Just remember to get the right pcd/offset etc as not every car is the same as each other 👍

Be interesting to see how these compare to the current competition.

25 again..... https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/press-kits/skoda-octavia-press-kit/history-60-years-of-the-skoda-octavia/

Next step, design a parcel shelf that acts like a cone to amplify the pressure difference and you're onto something

Suggest getting the wheel bearing and bushes on the front checked whilst it's in just incase. I think you've taken the correct route though as throwing parts at a problem gets expensive really quickly.

Being devil's advocate, that is now an MOT failure. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter

I wonder if the Mk2 Octavia 17" pegasus or 17" VRS would fit. I'd imagine they're quite inexpensive at breakers these days (Ditto for other previous generation models) and if they do fit they'd be a simple way to test with a set of all seasons/winters on over the winter. If you like them you have your answer and if not you can sell them on as winters for a similar amount to your outlay.

On 18 I’d agree, not so much on 17”. I say that as I went 18/16 for summer winter and the difference was night and day.

I could be wrong, hence the check. I had 16" winter wheels on 320mm, so there''s a possibility that 17" might fit on 340mm. These threads suggests 17 might be an option, you just have to be careful which alloys you pick and use slim wheel weights. That's exactly what I had on the 16" winters and even with all the winter crud I never had an issue. That plus 17" tyres are usually a lot cheaper than 18" tyres, so another bonus.

Could have been some crud in the tank. If the same happens again with the no warning, then warning, I'd look at having the tank cleaned and the sensor/pump replaced. It's money, but it's a lot cheaper than running out on the way to somewhere important.

Have you considered if 17" will fit over the brakes? They will add a big comfort improvement with the right tyres.

VCDS or a Garage/dealer with the correct tools. If the smell is terrible on strong, gave you ever changed the pollen filer?

Thanks, good to have it confirmed. I like having the option of 2.4 and 5, so I'm going to look at hardware that's got it on both, be that 2x2 or 4x4. Size plays some baring as many of the 4x4 models are huge. We have cat5e in the walls and I'm debating taking one of the runs to each of the room with cat6a that I have kicking around from another install. Of course the down side is the rigidity of the 6a, but the up side is no cost If you've only got 1Gbit, there's no point having a 4x4 IMHO, but as yet I've not seen enough reasonably priced 19" 2.5Gbit switches with a couple of PoE ports. The more I read, the more I'm tempted to try and massage things back to shape and get it through the next 6-12 months for gen2 silicon.

I think, the U6 pro EA model became the GA U6LR, but I'm happy to be wrong on that. Edit: Hmm on rereading that thread I could well be wrong. Will keep my ears open. It looks like the draytek devices do support AX on 2.4GHz, although at a higher cost that the u6-lite and similar to the LR.

Thank, that’s really useful. If that’s the case with all the ax manufacturers then I will probably have to wait until someone starts producing AP on both ranges. I might actually have to crack the old device open and check for fluff/cooling issues, that and rely on wpa2 enterprise for a bit. Will probably also check the reasonable price draytek and zyxel model to see if they do the same. As you suggested not the best time to need to do this..

Well a bit of digging and there are reviews stating the U6 range has wifi-6 (ax) 5GHz, but the 2.4GHz is still wifi 4 (n). Not sure it's accurate, but if it was it would certainly be a real issue. Anything from any brand that does that makes the upgrade pointless and a temporary solution more likely.

The reason for the AX is the sheer number of users with provider routers that swallow all three main 2.4Ghz channels and randomly grab 5Ghz channels. The user time slot sharing, better beamforming, base colouring and improved encoding are useful. As well as that, the current router WiFi is WPA2 only/being flakey in hot weather and one of the AP is wpa3. So rather than update one AC access point to replace one older one, I was looking at doing 2-3 AP to replace the wireless as a single managed network. It’s more fishing that committed to buy, but I won’t be doing two upgrades. Rather annoyingly, some neighbours (I expect new tenants) keep trying to gain free internet by going after the router keys. Logs are full of various attempts and brute force key attacks. Obviously I block it, but it is easy to mask a Mac. There are wires and wpa2 enterprise to deal with stuff that supports it, but I’m looking at wpa3 as a route to reduce vulnerability on simpler stuff. It’s got to the point that for a while I have used an old AP with a different key closest to the suspected property that is not connected to anything.

Looking at some AX access points and the reasonably priced ones appear to be the Ubititi U6-Lite/LR and the Draytec 960/1060 models. Obviously the U6 models are cheaper, but it appears they need a controller to function fully. Can anyone confirm this and also what level of functionality is available without the controller? If the controller is required is it a one off or subscription model from Ubiquiti? Draytek wise, I'm familiar with their equipment, but if anyone uses either of these models a first hand review is always useful. Finally on the Ubiqiti side, I've heard some rumours of poor product/software updated, but hoping an owner can confirm this is marketing from a competitor or fanboi behaviour rather than a potential issue.

It looks like there has been friction over the bottom of the bootlid. Was it removed for any work etc that you know of? In terms of that depending on how long you wish to keep the car, you could rust treat that, then touch it up with a paint stick. Alternatively a good bodyshop should be able to suitably deal with that. As I mentioned on another thread, the cost of a new primed boot panel is much higher than I'd expect, so it is something I'd deal with sooner rather than later, to nip the issue in the bud.

Nice 👍

Not ok for travel to Europe from some point if I read it correctly. Right mess and plenty of fines ahead at a guess.