Monkhai

Being devil's advocate, that is now an MOT failure. https://www.gov.uk/government/news/new-rules-for-mot-to-test-for-diesel-particulate-filter

I wonder if the Mk2 Octavia 17" pegasus or 17" VRS would fit. I'd imagine they're quite inexpensive at breakers these days (Ditto for other previous generation models) and if they do fit they'd be a simple way to test with a set of all seasons/winters on over the winter. If you like them you have your answer and if not you can sell them on as winters for a similar amount to your outlay.

On 18 I’d agree, not so much on 17”. I say that as I went 18/16 for summer winter and the difference was night and day.

I could be wrong, hence the check. I had 16" winter wheels on 320mm, so there''s a possibility that 17" might fit on 340mm. These threads suggests 17 might be an option, you just have to be careful which alloys you pick and use slim wheel weights. That's exactly what I had on the 16" winters and even with all the winter crud I never had an issue. That plus 17" tyres are usually a lot cheaper than 18" tyres, so another bonus.

Could have been some crud in the tank. If the same happens again with the no warning, then warning, I'd look at having the tank cleaned and the sensor/pump replaced. It's money, but it's a lot cheaper than running out on the way to somewhere important.

Have you considered if 17" will fit over the brakes? They will add a big comfort improvement with the right tyres.

VCDS or a Garage/dealer with the correct tools. If the smell is terrible on strong, gave you ever changed the pollen filer?

Thanks, good to have it confirmed. I like having the option of 2.4 and 5, so I'm going to look at hardware that's got it on both, be that 2x2 or 4x4. Size plays some baring as many of the 4x4 models are huge. We have cat5e in the walls and I'm debating taking one of the runs to each of the room with cat6a that I have kicking around from another install. Of course the down side is the rigidity of the 6a, but the up side is no cost If you've only got 1Gbit, there's no point having a 4x4 IMHO, but as yet I've not seen enough reasonably priced 19" 2.5Gbit switches with a couple of PoE ports. The more I read, the more I'm tempted to try and massage things back to shape and get it through the next 6-12 months for gen2 silicon.

I think, the U6 pro EA model became the GA U6LR, but I'm happy to be wrong on that. Edit: Hmm on rereading that thread I could well be wrong. Will keep my ears open. It looks like the draytek devices do support AX on 2.4GHz, although at a higher cost that the u6-lite and similar to the LR.

Thank, that’s really useful. If that’s the case with all the ax manufacturers then I will probably have to wait until someone starts producing AP on both ranges. I might actually have to crack the old device open and check for fluff/cooling issues, that and rely on wpa2 enterprise for a bit. Will probably also check the reasonable price draytek and zyxel model to see if they do the same. As you suggested not the best time to need to do this..

Well a bit of digging and there are reviews stating the U6 range has wifi-6 (ax) 5GHz, but the 2.4GHz is still wifi 4 (n). Not sure it's accurate, but if it was it would certainly be a real issue. Anything from any brand that does that makes the upgrade pointless and a temporary solution more likely.

The reason for the AX is the sheer number of users with provider routers that swallow all three main 2.4Ghz channels and randomly grab 5Ghz channels. The user time slot sharing, better beamforming, base colouring and improved encoding are useful. As well as that, the current router WiFi is WPA2 only/being flakey in hot weather and one of the AP is wpa3. So rather than update one AC access point to replace one older one, I was looking at doing 2-3 AP to replace the wireless as a single managed network. It’s more fishing that committed to buy, but I won’t be doing two upgrades. Rather annoyingly, some neighbours (I expect new tenants) keep trying to gain free internet by going after the router keys. Logs are full of various attempts and brute force key attacks. Obviously I block it, but it is easy to mask a Mac. There are wires and wpa2 enterprise to deal with stuff that supports it, but I’m looking at wpa3 as a route to reduce vulnerability on simpler stuff. It’s got to the point that for a while I have used an old AP with a different key closest to the suspected property that is not connected to anything.

Looking at some AX access points and the reasonably priced ones appear to be the Ubititi U6-Lite/LR and the Draytec 960/1060 models. Obviously the U6 models are cheaper, but it appears they need a controller to function fully. Can anyone confirm this and also what level of functionality is available without the controller? If the controller is required is it a one off or subscription model from Ubiquiti? Draytek wise, I'm familiar with their equipment, but if anyone uses either of these models a first hand review is always useful. Finally on the Ubiqiti side, I've heard some rumours of poor product/software updated, but hoping an owner can confirm this is marketing from a competitor or fanboi behaviour rather than a potential issue.

It looks like there has been friction over the bottom of the bootlid. Was it removed for any work etc that you know of? In terms of that depending on how long you wish to keep the car, you could rust treat that, then touch it up with a paint stick. Alternatively a good bodyshop should be able to suitably deal with that. As I mentioned on another thread, the cost of a new primed boot panel is much higher than I'd expect, so it is something I'd deal with sooner rather than later, to nip the issue in the bud.

Nice 👍

Not ok for travel to Europe from some point if I read it correctly. Right mess and plenty of fines ahead at a guess.

When it’s hot hot you’ll want strong not medium, but as the weather cools you’ll find it almost headache inducing and will want to get back to medium. Last comment was around the fact that there are sensors for cabin temperature and also there was (at least in older cars) a sensor in the dash to let the car know it was in direct sunlight. If either of these are reading incorrectly you’ll have issues.

I recently got mine regassed, it held a vacuum so it was just slight amounts over time. The other option is to check the AC profile is on strong. Press and hold the setup button until the setup comes up on display. After that check/change the temperature or sunlight sensors?

By the time they’ve purchased two XLR they could have had a number of guitar amps… https://www.andertons.co.uk/brands/marshall-amps/jvm-guitar-amps/marshall-jvm410c-100w-2x12-combo-amp Cable or more amp to tour with… I think I know who wins!

Thieving b stewards and plastic fuel tanks combined with anti siphon devices mean that the preferred method is to drill the tank. It’s possibly splash back, but check the tank for a small drilled hole.

Sadly not true.. (well not here and anymore) I believe the airbags on US models are typically designed to protect including those not wearing a belt. However European cars have a bag shaped to provide maximum head protection for belted occupants. Besides which it’s still not worth the risk even if true. Change it and if a bit of crud is extracted from the old one and it works again, then sell it to recover your costs. Edit: FWIW, I benefited from a wheel airbag a good few years ago. Even as the column is collapsible, the bag still slows the impact of your face. To be fair I’m fairly certain the bulkhead moved in that accident, so I wouldn’t be without it👍

It varies, but the official line i keep hearing is 5 years or... That's clearly not something all dealers do, but an affiliate in what way? If they're owned by the same parent company I'd want something of a guarantee from the parent company Personally I'm running a mile again. But VAG reapairs on VAG cars at VAG dealers attract a 2 year warranty on those parts. Again, this doesn't add up, so I'm running another mile. Nice words and all, but it is either 3 months of 12 and the dealer would need to put it in writing. Also read the smallprint of the warranty with great care. You'd be surprised that a lot of warranties (don't know about this one) don't cover a lot of things you would assume would be on an quick glance. Hmm, but that's a temporary situation, which will likely be resolved in a few months as availability of newer cars come to market. I'd still walk away. Zero scope for negotiation when it's had a rebuilt engine = let somebody else pick up the repair job and pay the money you would for one without that history. I'd walk away. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying they pulling a fast one. They have told you about the rebuild, which is more than many car resellers would do. For me the big question is what got replaced? For example: - Did the exhaust/DPF get replaced after the blown engine chucked oil down it? - Did any of the bouncy engine bits that left via the exhaust damage the turbo? - Did the in head injectors get damaged? It's direct injection and interference design, so with bits bouncing around it's possible there was damage. I'm sure I've missed others, but any of these would be a big bill for you to foot. If you don't need to take that risk, why bother.

Further to my last post.... What a flipping car crash: https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-symbols-and-identifiers Because I want to stick a flag on my reg plate and have many options 😕

Using UK wouldn't go with the ISO country codes and would be a bit close to Ukraine (UA/UKR). The codes for the United Kingdom being GB/GBR https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:code:3166:UA https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:code:3166:GB Can't see how we'd ever get plated with UK on them. I quite liked my GB plates and found them useful, but if it's a GB sticker then so be it. EDIT: No it appears the RAC are reporting it here: https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/gb-car-sticker-to-be-replaced-by-new-uk-version/ What on earth 😕

TBH, get a new one or a good one from a scrap yard and change it or get it changed In the time it's taken us to reply, an accident could happen and without the seatbelt working you're dead or seriously injured. Just not worth the risk, especially for the low cost. Assuming you mean the buckle rather than the belt, this sort of part is not expensive and as an example (May not be the right one for your car). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265260434080 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284187518043 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114940927064 Scrap yards will sell these every day if you ask one that has an Octavia, and the pretensioner is in the other part not this one I believe.