Monkhai

I would get it scanned with VCDS or a dealer style tool etc as it may give more information. There is a before and after sensor on a DPF, so if either are faulty or not well sealed then there will be problems. I'd be tempted to get a garage to take the car out and log the DPF values from the sensors over a drive cold and in the conditions that set your problem off. Even if it's £100 at a main dealer, it's a lot cheaper than playing swap the parts at random until it's fixed.

What about the rear windscreen wash though? I ask as this was a known problem on previous generations of car, which resulted in a hose popping apart at a connector and filling the boot with screenwash. It's also been known to pop off or leak from the wiper motor link to the pipe and run down the inside of the plastic cover/boot lid. Have you tried putting newspaper etc on the boot floor and spraying a hose at the boot on a standard rain type spray pattern? That will quickly help you see even a small leak. One further area that's in my head, is to check the seals of the rear lights, as if these were not properly attached/sealed or screwed into the car, you could probably get a significant amount of water in through there on a rainy day.

Could be a wrap or a badly carried out rear window removal/replacement. I tend to think a good body shop is probably the best bet unless you have recourse to the original seller. FWIW the price of a new boot panel is a joke, so I’d suggest sooner than later to get it looked at is wise.

Definitely get the timing and tensioner/pulley checked. If the tensioner is wrong that could cause issues which would be expensive. Ditto if you had the water pump done check it. Of course it could be something far less troublesome, but checking for the bad stuff makes sense. Hope you get it sorted 👍

That’s really bad and a basic pressure wash shouldn’t cause that. I take it the rear wash/wipe works. If it’s a hatch make sure when you wash the rear screen it isn’t leaking. For that volume of water to get in there, I would suggest the leak it either from a pipe or coming in from the top via a faulty seal.

As small as you can go and still fit over the brakes 👍 Of the two you mention definitely not 19” and if you can get 17” to work, that would be my preferred choice.

Get a better garage! Not being rude, but if you see a leak and they can’t find it there is something wrong with the garage. Changing parts you have, it would have been cheaper to go to a specialist or main dealer than play swap the parts. If it was a head gasket it’s unlikely you’d see a leak but you would likely get exhaust gasses in the coolant. Have you: - looked for crusty pink deposits around the engine? These will be around the leak. - checked the coolant for exhaust gases - checked the various coolant sensors for perished seals/leaks - checked the EGR cooler - checked the oil cooler - checked the pipes/clips - checked the thermostat/housing.

This looks very similar to an error I saw on a friends polo 1.2. The answer in the end was to remove and replace the 02 sensor. Cleaning the sensor worked for a little while, but sadly the root cause was red deposits from a petrol fuel additive, which had coated the manifold, and both 02 sensors. I say both, as not long after fixing the front one (couple of months) the rear one started playing up and had exactly the same coating on it. As the sensors were not expensive the latter was changed straight off, although luckily said friend had a very long breaker bar as it was certainly quite tight in the exhaust.

Scrap yard… Then add a 4 way wheel brace 👍

Note to self swap g13 to g12 evo…

Yes but my point was that elegance was a UK trim level that went with classic and Ambiente. If they were still calling the top one Elegance, then they were still calling the lower ones Classic and Ambiente. S, SE and SE-L all came in at the same time. Hence the if they were calling the higher model Elegance that year, then they were calling the one now called an SE and Ambiente. What I'm saying is that I am pretty sure in the year your car was from, the UK equivalent model was called the Ambiente, not an SE.

I saw plenty of MK3 that were elegance trim, so I'd be surprised (but not certain). As George asked, what exactly do you have? It might also help if you have the build code sticker from the boot or first page of the manual. That will detail (in codes) what the car is/has built into it.

Fuel Conversation has been moved here:

I can see the below thread was also created in the superb section, so I'm locking this thread. As a polite reminder, please only post new threads in one section of the foum.

In the UK on the MK2, as far as I was aware it was still Classic, Ambiente, Elegance and L&K. I believe it changed some time into the MK3, where it became the S, SE, SE-L and L&K. Happy to be wrong.

If you have the paper/plastic it came with or gave a name when you purchased it, then the can get the imei number. 👍 edit: Sorry didn’t see the post saying claim agreed. At this point I’d just get the correct value, especially as second hand cars are at a high currently.

That’s the problem with smart, always need firmware updates for security.

Plug two cars in at end of day, let them do their stuff. Yes it’s pure laziness to a point. We can both have to do decent journeys at the same time, but having both plugged in allows for pre-heat/cool in a morning so no ice scraping and better range. The 7kW plus 13Amp plug might be an option though 👍

Sadly the neighbours who have a hybrid and a charging point had someone do exactly that more than once. It was happening whilst they’re out to work for the day for a couple of hours. I guess the smart ones you can just manually set charging limit to zero or similar though. The rest of it’s interesting though snd certainly worth considering. I have to say the Koreans seem to be so far ahead of everyone else on this.

I think that was my point. You say you read 13V at the battery, but 13V isn’t enough to charge a 12v lead acid battery It’ll be interesting to see what happens, but I was just saying I wouldn’t take it as conclusive.

Interesting then that it’s not automatically a charge the grant amount more 👍 Trying to find a suitable charging pole that will do 7kW or 2x3kW if 2 car are plugged in, then back to 7 when one is charged/turned off by smart. Will also need a secure charger where anyone can’t just plug in and charge their car.

I didn't know it was on the base price, rather than invoice price. So if you add the heat pump option that should be standard, for example, that doesn't count towards the price? If so that's good news. Bad news is there's no way 230 miles would work for me and it's borderline for SWMBO if she has to get to family and back on a single charge in winter. Of course if they can get more like a genuine 230 miles in winter, then that's a different question. Sadly they don't (on last asking). They actually decided to purchase everyone out of the car scheme as it was too much of a headache for the small number of users. I asked because of the zero/1%/2% BIK rates that were appearing. Interesting to know. Luckily when I had some rewiring done for the home heatpump, I had a larger fusebox put in with a couple of spare points for additions RCBO. These could easily be wired out to the front of the house, with almost no difficult routing. Also the 63A input breaker was replaced with a 100A. As such, I get the impression that as a lot of the wiring has been done it could be done for not too much. Would I be correct in assuming you have to use an approved installer to get the government money, and that they charge approximately <grant amount> more than just buying the parts and getting them done by a local spark?

Either of these would help. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kemo-M148A-Battery-Guard-12V-Black/dp/B004AUJ002/ref=dp_prsubs_1?pd_rd_i=B004AUJ002&psc=1 https://circuits-diy.com/low-battery-cutoff-for-12v-batteries-using-555-ic/ Otherwise as somebody else mentioned, a 12V leisure battery, which only charges when the engine is on. You could move the 12V in the boot to a switched live, then put the battery charger onto that. The old 12V socket could then connect to the 12V leisure in the boot and to the fridge.

IIRC the 12v battery would require 14V to charge, not just over 12. Are you sure it is actually charged when it's plugged in. It would be good to get confirmation of this.

Having seriously considered an EV as a second car for a good while, we're at a stage where a car will likely be up for replacment in the next 12-18 months. So I have looked at the grants, and they seem to only apply for low spec/low range cars (£35k). To me that seems very low and 45/50 would have been more sensible to allow a wider range of cars to be replaced by BEV. Does anyone have an idea of or links to what the rules are? At lease on the surface it appears a lot more complicated than it should be.