Monkhai

It’s possible that there was a leaf buildup in the drains. If you let it run freely out you may have cleared it. Also check the seals on the door carriers as that could explain damp carpets.

Worth adding your battery was a bit expensive, as even retail halfords is less: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/halfords--096agm-start%2Fstop-agm-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-548638.html They're made by a reputable company and actually a very good battery. Trade get a discount on that too. As such £179 for a battery, seems a lot since Halfords are not exactly known to be the cheapest. The £25 fitting service even mentions registering the new battery with the car (not saying I'd use it, but if they know, you'd hope a specialist garage would have known). Worth calling a couple of main dealers and getting a price for supply and fit (inc coding) of a new battery and see how it compares to other prices you get. If it's about the same it's usually worth going to the dealer.

I would put a new AGM battery in and correctly code the battery management system. The problem could be as simple as the car thinking you have an old battery, but as you don't know the state of the replacement and it's your income, I'd just start with a known good battery and a known good coding. It could be that the new battery sat for a year almost unused, which would kill it too. The cars here have been on a smart charger once every 4-6 weeks during lockdown. Others who didn't do that ended up with dead batteries that re-charged, worked for a bit and then didn't have enough grunt to start the car. A jump start/charge would fix this and then the same would happen again a little later. It could also be the charging system, but a coding will affect how that behaves, so I circle back to the new battery, correct coding and see how it behaves from there.

It was fairly normal to be able to pour a little bit out of intercooler hoses on older versions of the engine so I can move around especially with an EGR in play. I’m not an expert or normal/not normal, but I do know they won’t be dry.

I think the flushing oil thing depends on a number of factors, including if the car is PD, how long you leave it in and how dirty the oil is. Helping clean a car up that had been “ serviced” every year but the oil filter date was years old and the oil like treacle I did a few things. 1) Immediate change of all filters and oil change. 2) Early second oil and filter after about 5000 miles. 3) Normal oil and filter change at correct interval. By that time the oil was only as dirty as you’d expect on the change. At the next change I warmed up the car a bit, added a can of flushing additive to the old oil, then gently drove the car around the block. Upon draining the oil was filthy, so I put in the cheapest oil of the right spec and a new filter and drove the car for a week then did it again with good oil. It was a huge effort, but since then the oil has stayed thinner/cleaner a lot longer after each oil change and come out in good condition. I’ve not put a flush in since and nor would I add anything to the oil that claims to improve it. However what I can say s a suitable flushing oil used sensibly and only occasionally if required isn’t a bad thing. In your case I’d do (as you suggest) a couple of short oil changes first, but if all else fails it might be worth considering a one off. edit: I didn’t realise it was four months old when I replied. Oops. Did you sort it out?

Have a search and you might be able to find another thread with a vrs owner with this engine snd high oil consumption. I believe it was a damaged piston/piston rings. As for that oil in your turbo pipe… there will always be a tiny amount that can get there. I’d suggest that he amount you have pulled out isn’t that abnormal. I would get the individual cylinders compression tested before throwing money at parts. EDIT: found the thread

If it’s the same as mine, the divider is only suitable if you do not have the variable boot floor 👍 Edit.. Thst manual now says on lowest position only. I’d give them a call as they were helpful to me. As the non variable floor is pretty soft, I imagine you’d want some suitable ply etc underneath to strengthen it anyway before installing any point loads.

If it's just a secure folder, then the above free software will so the same using any USB drive

It has… I’m fairly certain the external light circuits had to have switched live and neutral when we had some work done. I’m guessing there sort of things are your preferred route: https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/switches/cat7320002?smartcompatibility=smart&switchproducttype=light

I'll be honest that last phrase about doesn't fill be with confidence and makes me think more about waiting for "SP1" or the equivalent first major update. I'd be far more interested in what they've done to protect home user security or features to allow recovery from ransomware or similar in home/enterprise environments.

I think I’m a bit confused, what are you trying to add to this new lamp that isn’t there?

Don’t fit them yet brakes don’t warp unless they’re made from cheese. More likely there’s pad material on the brake discs. Try a few fairly hard stops from say 70 to 20 on an empty DC where it’s safe to do so. That might clean off the material.

These be any use? https://www.philips-hue.com/en-gb/p/hue-white-lucca-outdoor-wall-light/1740193P0 Obviously it's relying on Alexa/hue integration, but you could also use the hue to set daylight/nightlight times or let it work with sunset/sunrise times? Or Cheat: https://www.toolstation.com/integral-led-gls-dusk-till-dawn-sensor/p16792 https://www.toolstation.com/electronic-ip44-photocell-kit/p62528 Not sure if the last item will just switch on live or if it needs something out. I'm of course assuming you mean it doesn't have the dawn/dusk feature, rather than it does, but doesn't have smart integration.

Stick them on a train and do a deal with EuroTunnel.... 😉

The please don't post multiple threads in multiple sections still applies. From the site guidelines: Cross-posting is not allowed and can result in the deletion of one or both posts. Cross-posting is defined as posting the same information in two or more separate forums. We understand that some topics might fit into more than one forum. Please try to pick the most appropriate one and stick with it. That said. if you would prefer the combined thread moved to the audio/electronics section, then I'm happy to move it there.

Threads merged, please don’t post multiple threads on the same subject in multiple areas of the forum. 👍

That bit I could accept and more so based on your comment. The walking off with the other guy in the car however....

What I found disgusting about the whole thing was: - Car was obviously up in the air and yet the red bull wheels can be seen to turn. (Assuming you know you're up in the air, that's quite a risk of injury to those below - although I could put that down to trying to automatic reactions.) - Looking at the state of the cars, surely any decent human being would at least walk towards the other driver and make sure they can get out of the car/wait for stewards to be with the car It's all well and good saying he looked fine, but you have two crashed cars, severe damage to both and a driver in a car. Fuel/electrical fires can still happen and whilst you might both be angry, you'd hope neither wants the other gone for good. I do wonder if you should just put the two of them in a boxing ring and tell them to fight the championship out there.

Pollen filters regularly get ignored and are often a chargeable extra. If they don’t get changed they can block up reducing airflow which can allow for bacterial growth. They also start to smell after too long. Suggestion would be to change it and set off an AC cleaner can. There are details of how to DIY if you wish (quick search should reveal it) and the hardest bit is getting the glovebox clip back on. Worth doing if you can’t see it definitely has been done in the last 12 months. Even if it does little for AC temperature it will at least be new and the cleaner should deal with the smells.

I’m not worried, I’m just pointing out the mess after the OPs post. Certainly in Germany there is a fair chance that driving with an incorrect plate/sticker will at the very least have you advised and the rest of your car checked.

My take was they don’t change, but obviously the country could ask the UK to update at the UN to whatever they wanted on their behalf at a future date. I suppose you could take it either way.

It appears that is up to them: https://treaties.un.org/doc/Publication/CN/2021/CN.207.2021-Eng.pdf

I agree it's not hugely likely, but you know... there are international standards for a reason

By standards I mean the ISO international standards as listed here (and elsewhere): https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/iso-country-codes--2 United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland = GB/GBR/826 as the ISO standard country identifier. As you can see Ukraine is UA/UKR/804, and it would be quite possible for people to think as Ukraine is UKR it also is UK. EDIT: Totally agree with you on people messing about with plates for MOT and it should be an instant road side fine for a mis-spaced/illegal format plate.

Fair point, although I'm a believer in keeping to standards when it's possible