Monkhai

As mentioned, freedom members can advertise cars for sale on the forum. Should you be interested the subscriptions details can be found here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/ From a more general point of view, I would say don't scrap it as if it's safe and runs with an MOT it has a value, particularly at the moment. Private sale yes I'd definately declare it, but probably take off 25%-30% off the price of a similar car. If it was one of the big car buying sites, it's up to them to do their homework as they will deduct for every little dent. If they don't ask, I wouldn't volunteer the information as it's all on the records they can see. Obviously if they do ask it's different. The route that's best for you will likely depending on wether you just want a simple quick sale or the best price. You might be surprised by the demand for cheap simple run around cars at the moment, due to people avoiding public transport.

IMHO the **If you don't order it with towbar prep, then you can't tow type line, it a little less obvious than would be ideal and those selling the cars new/used should certainly be given training to make customers aware of this. That said, I seem to remember reading on here that some of the assistance systems rely on the correct electronics telling them when there is a trailer/caravan attached. If there is they can alter their behavior under emergency situations. Should that be accurate, then I could see a situation where the rules may say it's not an option to tow without it and at approval stage it doesn't have it so there is no approval. I guess it's one to keep an eye out for on all brands of vehicle.

Have you tried feeding them biscuits?

The old 8000s is a comparative leightweight and half the amp you have there at only 7.5kg . For curiosity, I weighed the new amp and it's 15kg give or take, so I guess must have picked up a complimentary subscription to the amplifiers by weight package somewhere along the line. Average = 3/4 of the amp you have As for hard to drive speakers sounding good, It's amazing what a good amp can do, particularly where there's high volumes or lots of low end bass to be dealt with. What did you go for in the end? I like the XLR inputs and as they're so much simpler to use than a phono pair, I'm somewhat surprised they never really took off outside of professional circiles. I guess the improvements of being balanced, were offset by manufacturers having the cost of making sure the kit was spot on too.

1) Don't be so rude... 2) I had to moderate a post, offering an activated version of VCDS-lite, which is paid for software. 3) You probably should have read the forum guidlines before posting.

The offering of “activated” licensed software is not permitted under forum rules. Please refer to the site terms and guidelines if you’re unsure. 👍 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/terms/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/guidelines

Would you like the title change to peer pressure? You may be able to edit it yourself by editing the first post if you’re quick enough.

Too late sadly, but FWIW I tried a few of the newer A3 models when it came out a few years ago before using one for long (6-8 hour round trip) journeys. For me the standard seats I found were poor, the sport seats much better, the super sport seats a bit too much for me. All of these came with zero lumbar adjustment as standard and if you wanted it you had to add the 4 way electric. In the end I settled on a manual sports seat (including the pull out leg support at the front) with the electric 4 way lumbar adjustment. That was much better than the seat in the MK2, mainly due to the better leg support and so reduced arse/back ache on longer journeys. The 4 way lumbar was better than the skoda mk2, only because it came further out and could be height adjusted, and you need both not just one to get comfortable. I seem to remember the passat also came with an ergo seat option (as I believe did some skoda in other markets), so if you're still looking at swapping seats these could be a good option to try and locate at a lower than Audi sports seats price.

What year/model type (mk 1/2/3) is your octavia? There are multiple options with different solutions 👍

Glad you got it sorted👍

I wouldn't leave the update.

Is your windows laptop on a work domain ? I would still suggest the Ethernet and the 1x1 will definitely cause issues with achievable WiFi speed which will make it slower than the big network at work can deliver. Ethernet cable and adapter if needed just rules out a potential issue for to a lot of money. If you can download, but it just won’t update, first step would be to try and download the offline windows update package. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 An example guide is here : https://www.itechguides.com/how-to-install-windows-10-2004-update-manually/ I do remember a version being stuck in loops during one upgrade, which required removal of drivers, then update then reinstall, but I honestly don’t remember more than that.

What version of Windows do you have on it? If it's windows 10... the office is out of date sounds like you basically need to do a major update via windows update to a newer version of windows 10 (It's free). The wifi on that laptop isn't one I personally like dealing with, the spec sheet specified "Realtek RTL8821CE 802.11b/g/n/ac (1x1) and Bluetooth® 4.2 Combo" The fact that it's a 1x1 also means it's not going to be as fast as it could be in ac mode, but that's not the end of the world, just a comment. If you have an ethernet port, then plug it into the router and let it do it that way. From what I can see you don't, so I suggest you buy something like this (Make sure it's USB 3 or C and it doesn't require a driver) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Network-Adapter-Syncwire-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B074CDL78M Plus an ethernet cable if you don't have one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/C2G-Booted-Unshielded-Network-Patch/dp/B001U3ZQH8 or https://www.amazon.co.uk/KabelDirekt-Ethernet-Connector-High-Speed-Shielding/dp/B01FHYOX0G Then plug it into the router and do the updates that way.

That is because I moderated the posts in question

Surely it would read There’s no place like ~/

This is discussed in this post

Please can I ask members to keep their posts polite and to avoid using offensive language. I appreciate that what might be offensive to one person, may not appear to be to another, however you do need to consider the wider audience when posting. That doesn't mean having to sugar coat everything, but you do need to pick appropriate language. I do also understand that there can be a degree of lost in translation where English may not be the first language of the poster, but in those cases I would suggest the mindset of if in doubt, perhaps don't say it.

I had the oil every 2 years and inspection every 1. Someone suggested it was to remind for the MOT...Except that’s not when the inspection reminder came up. I usually paella out the oil and replace at half distance anyway, so the extra inspection can wait until MOT time.

As long as they still contain the magic smoke everything will work fine. 😂

No, that’s quite a lot. First test would be to clean it up with kitchen paper or similar, take a short drive with some speed bumps or similar then check again. There was an advisory for faulty shocks that leaked oil prematurely but I don’t know the bulletin number.

Having had to replace a number of PSU capacitors in previous roles... yes they certainly can go bang. Especially when your colleague prods it with a screwdriver to ask if it’s been discharged. 😂

It makes sense... the amp is a 2.2 channel output amp, which can decode many of the Dolby and dts standards, so shouldn’t get it driving speakers that are not there 👍 https://www.avforums.com/reviews/arcam-sr250-stereo-receiver-review.12408 It also weighs a metric eff load... due to said psu😂 The 8000s has a big psu too, and required two hands to lift as the psu on one side was very heavy. No idea if the new ones use the same.

Unless I am missing something, the SR250 being able to decode and if require downmix (which I can tweak) was one of the reasons to get it. FWIW the 8000s, wasn’t super powerful per se, but the power is very usable and controlled. Still sounds far better than modern amps costing 3-4 times the money vs what it cost in the 90s.

Mine was a UK made rather than engineered in Uk made in elsewhere version so I can’t comment on those. The S version you could completely separate the pre/post circuits mind. As to downmixing, the sr250 can decode dts hd, Dolby digital etc then I believe makes it’s own down mix. Luckily though it also perfectly takes a pcm stereo feed too 😂😂

It was the petrol engine (I think 1.8T) that had the plastic impeller that came unstuck. The diesels got a design with a shutter for faster warm up, which appears to be less reliable than originally hoped for.