Monkhai

Already mentioned, but when it's hot, make sure the AC profile is set to strong/Intensive not light/medium.

I've heard of the same "oversight" on other brands of hybrid and EV, which lead me to help my mate out with a cigarette lighter socket to get the 12V up enough to work. I too was amazed they didn't charge the 12v when plugged in. I imagine there are third party options to do it, but it's a daft one for sure if it's the same here.

Can I just confirm this is a 2010 Fabia?

You could use it, but might be better loking at bilt hamber. Regardless of what you use to kill it, you'll want a high zinc primer to reduce the change of future rust, then a suitable top coat to protect against stone damage.

Any use for an encrypted folder on the drive? https://www.aescrypt.com

Maybe the Cooper-S was more of a handful on the road, but the one was easy to be in and live with and we regularly did hundreds of mile motorway journeys in them without pain/issue. What I took from having driven that car, was that actually the power didn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. On a twisty country road you could keep big wagons such as an AMG with oodles of power behind you and even in a lowly diesel you can reach the speed limits far too fast to have any real fun. At the end of the day fun really comes down to what you want from a car, be that super fast straight line, or a go cart. If the Octy 245 doesn't do it for you, I probably would have a drive of a wide range of cars before looking again at similar cars on the same chassis.

I've done it from the 12v socket in the boot regularly and the front lighter socket a couple of times. No idea what your charger (Battery) would do, but it works with a 7A ctek. I'd be surprised how well the 12v battery would do to charge, only because the chargers all do it at around 14v.

Not in the same league, but honestly I had far more fun driving an R57 mini one than anything from VAG that I've driven. Much lower power, but it was basically a go-kart for the road. It was always fun to drive and pretty much as comfortable with only 2 up.

In my experience it should be fine as long as it reacted and dried. Years ago I did exactly as you on a very old car and never got around to putting any paint on it in any way. I didn't see any rust whilst I still had the car. If you want to be sure lightly abrade the surface, then reapply and then prime as per the manufacturers instruction.

I've moved it to the Octavia mk3 section, as you'll likely get a lot more help in there

I'm assuming it's a mk3?

Hi and welcome to the forum Is it a new or used car and if used, which year as this may give different possibilities? Once we know I will also move it to the correct octavia section of the forum, so you can hopefully get more answers

If Australia is 7 years and 105km that's about 65,000 miles. Then split that by 5 years in the UK it's about 13000 miles a year, which is a smidge over the average UK anual mileage. Not really sure how they equate the UK to Aus in terms of dust and other environmentals, although it is funny to see that we're 5 years and depending on where you see it a significantly higher mileage.

Heat pumps just move heat around from A to B, so there is no reason they can't scavange heat from various locations and dump it elsewhere. In winter dump it into the in cabin "radiator" to warm it and in summer scavange it from everywhere including the air coming into the cabin and dump it outside. Why it isn't a standard piece of equipment on VW group cars in some market... well you'll have to ask the local importers

Sounds to me like its probably worth checking the Turbo. It's a big bill to replace, but a whole lot smaller than a new engine Step 1 - To check for head gasket a simple test is to look into the coolant bottle (Cold engine) and see if there are any oil deposits in there or it is an odd colour. Step 2 - Check the dipstick and oil cap for white mayo type deposits in the oil. Either of those signify that coolant and oil are mixing, which is a typical sign of head gasket failure. Smaller failures do happen that don't show this, but it's a simple check. Step 3 - Check for oily deposits around the engine bay/undertray. Before you go anywhere, check the oil level, make sure you have 1L or 4L of the correct oil in the car and breakdown cover. Also keep the revs low, so you're not using the turbo where possible (Below 2000 rpm). Alternatively just call the breakdown cover for a tow to a dealer or VW specialist. It might be worth asking for recommendations of VW specialists in your local area, as if it is the turbo, then it's going to be a sizable bill should you get the work done at the dealer.

Sounds like something that's very open to a number of fake portals with fees, by people designing sites that look a lot like the genuine one. I guess only time will tell, based on what it actually looks like when it comes to fruition.

I admit I’m looking at airflow as if it was a node of a supercomputer, but basic principle remains the same.

That’s the ones. The design I saw there was a plastic semicircular pair of clips for each of the cylinders on the bottom of the tank.

I’d definitely keep an eye on the airflow and would advise against pulling air in from the rear. It’s very strange if I am honest to go top to bottom with big components effectively blocking the air flow. If things start getting warm you might want to look at a heat pipe or a close look liquid cooler for the CPU that sits the radiator under an extraction fan up top. That or a passive heat sink with ducting up to a top exhaust fan. It looks like the GPU could be passive, so if it is that’s good as there are not massive fans messing up the flow. 👍 It’s a very nice build though and I’ll probably do something similar in an ATX format.

That would be a problem, but I do genuinely think the law should be updated. How many times does the country have to fall apart due to a few flakes of snow?

Just wanted to clarify that whilst the TMSC 7nm process is more efficient than the 10nm, it in itself doesn't determine the power use of the chip. Give or take the different methods for calculating it, the TDP is what matters. Why? Just because you can use a 7nm process, if you are to use a different core design that isn't as efficient, then you might need to cram in more transistors and burn the same or more energy for the same performance. Just look at the power used by the 7nm GPU vs a 14nm ARM chip (Obviously very different use cases, but you get the idea). That's a nice tidy build. Can't say I like the shark fin wifi aerial, but that's completely personal preference. For an ITX case it looks well thought out. One question, I can see the CPU cooler with the fan, and the fan behind the HDD, but where is the 2nd P12 fan? I only ask, because as it stands the airflow feels as if it would be a bit weird. I assume the CPU fan is pushing air through the heatsink to the back of the case, but which way is the fan behind the HDD pushing/pulling? Otherwise it will be interesting to see how the case works out for you as I'll look to replace a very old system in a full tower in the future. I'd have done it already it it wasn't for supply issues, but waiting for supply to improve on various parts, now means I might as well wait that small bit longer for the next gen memory and PCIe technologies to appear.

If you want locking nuts, get some McGuard or similar from anywhere or go to the dealer. If you don't just buy 4 of the correct non-locking nuts from a dealer. Locking wheel nuts are not particularly resistant to a determined theif, but as they are standard fit, I can imagine the case where an insurance company could have a problem if your wheels did get nicked and you didn't have them fitted.

It's nice to see, but TBH they should be standard in the UK and an option of a summer/winter set at cost. It would make new cars instantly safer in poor conditions we see a lot of the year and not noticably worse to anyone that isn't a rally driver in summer. Those that want the best in the conditions pay for it, which they're used to doing currently anyway. I can't see most people/fleets paying £180, but if they were standard I can't imagine too many typical buyers not accepting them. I really do think the law should change to state that all cars sold in the UK must come with tyres appropriate for the season in which they are sold or to be used. No point selling a car on summers coming up to winter and no point selling a car on winters coming up to summer.

Sounds like the default firewall rules were set up to be more secure and treat them as seperate networks rather than home users where it's all one. These things happen and hopefully a week later BT have posted an official software update to the affected routers.

I would go to your dealer and ask for a firmware/software update and get the issue logged. If that doesn't fix it then possibly a hardware issue, but if the slider is there and does nothing, my first thought is a firmware "bug/feature"