Monkhai

That just looks like oil to me, but that used to signify a leaking egr valve. If the level is being pulled down then returning, I would ask by how much. If not much then it could just be the pump pulling an effective vacuum on the line. As they’re cheap a new tank lid would be my first check. If it is going down a lot then up, I would still do the cap just to rule it out, but also deal with the egr cooler and find out why is has the oil leak. Also make sure all breather pipes are clear. Far from a complete list but worth checking.

Google apps too... I’ve heard various explanations from it was a quota oops, to it was a state hack to find out which Chinese intelligence agents were being watched. Cloud, all the downsides of a Centralised mainframe with few of the upsides. It is why Hybrid, with critical applications or at least one site under your control is probably a far better bet than all cloud.

A certain PSA owned company did that on a 1980s plastic bodied car with self levelling suspension. It would break and then the fix was to reroute it on RHD cars via another route with different cabling. You would have hoped they would have learned not to do it again....

I fitted the M part

The new VW genuine one doesn’t have g13 or g12 on it.

So can I just ask, g12evo replaces g13? do we know what the difference is and does it still have an extended service life or not? I had a full change with the cam belt change and a swap of an amount when I did the tank swap. Currently I have been removing an amount in the header tank and replacing with fresh every 9-12 months. debating if to use g13 or g12evo come the full coolant change.

All I would say is I wouldn't rule out some casting sand and I wouldn't 100% rule out the silica either. Just seems odd that it's so dark in colour, almost like the clay heavy green casting sands (Not green in colour).

The silica in the bag was clean almost clear in colour, hence the thoughts on casting sand.

Yep that does look a lot more like casting sand or muck than silica. As above, I would consider sending it to a lab to confirm what it is.

I don't own the mk4, but having had a MK1, 2 and 3 plus use of Audi/VW group cars, I can confidently say that the current system has put me off any car in the entire group that uses it. Somebody mentioned Audi have a dial again, do you have a link to that info, as that might make them an option if I can find a non-rubbish dealer.

Thanks for filling the blanks and yes as you said. Currently trying to do interactive work over my fttc connection is poor as kids wake up or people stream over the days. Some fibre providers offer 900mbit packages, which will saturate links if A few are used fully. Trying to gauge if it’s worth a 12month contract to move from 80/20 FTTC (I get top speed there often but poor latency) to 80/20 or 160/30 FTTP. If it’s a 10gbit link with 30-50 customers on it then it’ll be fine until you get a reasonable uptake. Add that a phone line is extra and mobile signal is poor and I really want to know what people experience before signing up to £200 of extra cost.

Anyone using fttp through and isp over Openreach (Not BTR). What is the contention like on the BTW network?

B12 kit was stunning, firm but forgiving. Can’t comment on a b14, but I don’t they’re terrible.

I'm with you on wires and won't use a wireless keyboard myself either. She however wanted something easy to put out of the way, so has different priorities. I like mechanical keys and scissor key mechanisms, but honestly will be with my natural keyboard until it dies and can't be repaired.

I just got the misses a cheap wireless logitec silent touch keyboard. It's not bad to be honest and a lot better than I expected, they keys feel ok for a straight keyboard. I still like the MS natural keyboards, but they're not made any more :( I do know cherry also do a silent/quiet keyboard with a nice feel and they have licenced the key technology to others. Failing that, just get some old 80's IBM keyboards and an adapter and sod everyone else Have a look at the Cherry Stream: https://www.cherry.co.uk/cherry-stream-keyboard.html

You could disconnect the MAF sensor and get comparative readings. The car has a default program which will not have the car running well but will help to diagnose things. If you disconnect the MAF wire and fuel economy improves, you then know that is a good place to start. I take it you have checked the intake is free from obstructions (leaves etc) and also checked the exhaust for leaks/holes? You are getting to the limits of my knowledge here, so the above are based on things I have seen/had on other cars in the past now.

I would change the air filter as I would say it’s due. That will be different to the official Skoda line no doubt. I use Skoda or Mann Filter. Whilst that will give a slight improvement in mpg and generally allow the engine to work more cleanly, I doubt it is all if it. The mpg seems a bit high to me, but temperature and many other things can affect that. Was the car at or above 1000rpm then? If so I do suspect something in the emissions control systems causing dpf regeneration. When the oil was changed was it with VW507 and not anything else? VW507 must be used on all dpf cars as it is low ash.

Thread from the dead... Although on reading I remembered that on the mk2 I had under warranty a leak which came from the radiator which had cracks that opened up at higher temperatures. It just dumped all the coolant one day. I seem to remember the original version of 2.0 tdi also had issues with porous heads which allowed small amounts of coolant into the cylinders.

That's low, the fuel filter isn't due until about 80k miles, so I would think that is one of the last places to look unless the car was sat for a long time with a part full tank and bacteria built up in the tank. That however would show up as other problems. That sounds like it. If you're doing a lot of town driving it may never clear. The shell is fine, but when I tried a couple of tanks, I found whilst it claimed to be cleaner I got slightly worse MPG from it than from the standard shell Diesel. Worth a shot, but you're talking a couple of mpg, not big differences. If you're even slightly competent with a screwdriver then an air filter is easy to do and at 40k miles if it hasn't been done (Unlikely) then it is due a change. Was it replaced as unless you're billed for it, it's not included in a major service until about 60,000 miles. Has that tank of fuel been in the car over lockdown? Has the car battery had a good charge, either through a long run on the motorway etc or on a charger? Again it's a case of trying to narrow things down. Also did the dealer do a scan with your sevice? Same goes if you have or know anyone with VCDS, as that might be able to give some clues.

- Use regular diesel from a reputable brand - Put a new air filter in, it's simple and not going to hurt and a blocked one will certainly increase MPG - Winter diesel or diesel with extra life preservatives in it can cause slightly lower MPG As above how many miles, the fuel filter does make a notable difference, but not as big as above. When I changed mine, I found it easier to get a couple of extra MPG and potentially a bit more responsive/quieter. Certainly nothing like you're seeing and that was at 70-80k miles. Have you checked the temperature sensors? Have the DPF and it's sensors been checked? If the car thinks it's cold, even when it is not, then it will use more fuel. Ditto if the DPF thinks it needs to regen. Check the oil level and see if it goes up. If it does (unlikely) then regens are going on, getting intereupted and the extra fuel is ending up in oil. I will add, I don't think it's a common on VW engines, but I know it happened on other brands.

The new schedule looks like a rather big price hike when you look at an inspection every year

There is a setting under the sat nav options to disable it. Audi versions can talk but mute when on the phone, but the Skoda/Seat versions seem too dumb to cope with it, so I muted mine.

Just found the other extreme, which is the honeywell ecohome with a series of 6 radiator TRV, which would do well for the whole house control.... So I guess I either go super simple or go all out and pay someone to do the fitting if the parts needed are inside the boiler and require a gas safe person to comply with the law.

No but it needs another zigbee to ethernet bridge.. I've already got two zigbee to ethernet bridges in the house and if hive needs another one, I can't be bothered. I'm trying to get rid of the zigbee bridges I already have not add more. Currently I have the boiler on 24/7 and have a Honeywell CM907/927 that does temperature changes 6 times a day to reach a heat profile. The only advantage of a smart thermometer for me, is to be able to easily change the programme times via an app rather than on the device itself as the seasons change. Hive just adds too many components to the mix for me, as I currently have one (Wierd so no receiver) and I don't really want to go to three. Does anyone know of a single package inline mains powered (not a plug), live switching thermostat, which has wifi programmable times? Not fussed about the fancy geolocation etc.

Thanks. No point doing that, I only have so many power points by ethernet ports, so it looks like hive is out. It's a shame as they could easily make a smart stat that connects to wifi and had a 240v to 12v transformer in it allowing the switched live systems most UK houses have. Never mind, will do a bit of digging at the other options out there as well as the programmable stats that you can programme from an app.