Monkhai

Yes... Sell beam car, buy new car with IRS. Question is more if you intend to keep the car are you ready for the cost of the many new rear bushes later in the cars life. Seen a fair few focus and mk2 fail MOT and be scrapped due to the costs of all the perished bushes.

Having driven both, I found the 2 to be quieter, more relaxed and actually more economical...

Pitting of discs was reported on a car 3 MOT ago with new pads and discs the solution. I looked and plenty of meat left so the car was taken out and a few decent slows from 70 to 20 were performed. Rust gone and no issue on any subsequent MOT. The car had been sat for a while before the first MOT and it wouldn’t surprise me if sitting for 2020 would cause a similar issue.

🤢 🤮

Currently running 16” winters and 18” summers. last time round I put all seasons on the 18, but frankly they’re poor on mud/snow compared to the winters and even the same tyres on 15” wheels on another car. For now I will stay 16/18, but when one wears I may get a set of 16 or 17” alloys for all seasons all the time. Anyone got experience on 16 vs 17 for grip for n the crap stuff? Clearly the 18” are too well de to work well on that.

Glad someone found the diagrams... You only need to take the larger piece off to get to the wiper motor. The crash /reinforcing bar make it a little harder to get out and you will need suitably large wiper arm puller tool.

Is the car less than 6 years old?

The EGR is definately seeping oil, as that's oil over it. The purpose of the EGR is to effectively make the car breath it's own farts, so you have dirty and oily air mixing in there (as well as new air). The solonoid valve has been known on older cars to fill with crud (oil and soot) and also have seals deteriorate, which then leads to oil leaking past and out. It's not a oh my god thing, just something which should have attention paid and either cleaned internally and externally, checked and kept and eye on or replaced. There are no oil lines that I am aware of and on the older cars it was just diry and clean air. On the newer cars there are EGR coolers which obviously have pipes from the coolant feed. I didn't think the water pump was failed, I just wondered what the level drop was, because if it's tiny (a couple of mm) I would just keep an eye on it and see if it does it both cold and warm. On the one way valves, I am afraid I have no idea, but TBH if they had failed you'd know about it pretty quickly. The lack of sleeve on the new pump could also cause if it's just a small drop, as the system isn't designed to have significant flow until you have some hot coolant. If you have flowing coolant without warm coolant (which has expanded coming back) then you might notice a very small drop and rise. Again if it's a big drop, I'd probably talk to a garage, as the cost of something serious would far outweigh the cost of a garage visit.

Undo the screw by the handle, then pull/use a trim tool to pull out the plastic panel. it pulls away from the metal/glass and is held in with spring clips. Make sure you don’t lose any. EDIT: In my experience it was easiest to start by pulling the edges up to get the clips lose, then once you've released the clips from the sides work along doing the same at the bottom.

That just looks like oil to me, but that used to signify a leaking egr valve. If the level is being pulled down then returning, I would ask by how much. If not much then it could just be the pump pulling an effective vacuum on the line. As they’re cheap a new tank lid would be my first check. If it is going down a lot then up, I would still do the cap just to rule it out, but also deal with the egr cooler and find out why is has the oil leak. Also make sure all breather pipes are clear. Far from a complete list but worth checking.

Google apps too... I’ve heard various explanations from it was a quota oops, to it was a state hack to find out which Chinese intelligence agents were being watched. Cloud, all the downsides of a Centralised mainframe with few of the upsides. It is why Hybrid, with critical applications or at least one site under your control is probably a far better bet than all cloud.

A certain PSA owned company did that on a 1980s plastic bodied car with self levelling suspension. It would break and then the fix was to reroute it on RHD cars via another route with different cabling. You would have hoped they would have learned not to do it again....

I fitted the M part

The new VW genuine one doesn’t have g13 or g12 on it.

So can I just ask, g12evo replaces g13? do we know what the difference is and does it still have an extended service life or not? I had a full change with the cam belt change and a swap of an amount when I did the tank swap. Currently I have been removing an amount in the header tank and replacing with fresh every 9-12 months. debating if to use g13 or g12evo come the full coolant change.

All I would say is I wouldn't rule out some casting sand and I wouldn't 100% rule out the silica either. Just seems odd that it's so dark in colour, almost like the clay heavy green casting sands (Not green in colour).

The silica in the bag was clean almost clear in colour, hence the thoughts on casting sand.

Yep that does look a lot more like casting sand or muck than silica. As above, I would consider sending it to a lab to confirm what it is.

I don't own the mk4, but having had a MK1, 2 and 3 plus use of Audi/VW group cars, I can confidently say that the current system has put me off any car in the entire group that uses it. Somebody mentioned Audi have a dial again, do you have a link to that info, as that might make them an option if I can find a non-rubbish dealer.

Thanks for filling the blanks and yes as you said. Currently trying to do interactive work over my fttc connection is poor as kids wake up or people stream over the days. Some fibre providers offer 900mbit packages, which will saturate links if A few are used fully. Trying to gauge if it’s worth a 12month contract to move from 80/20 FTTC (I get top speed there often but poor latency) to 80/20 or 160/30 FTTP. If it’s a 10gbit link with 30-50 customers on it then it’ll be fine until you get a reasonable uptake. Add that a phone line is extra and mobile signal is poor and I really want to know what people experience before signing up to £200 of extra cost.

Anyone using fttp through and isp over Openreach (Not BTR). What is the contention like on the BTW network?

B12 kit was stunning, firm but forgiving. Can’t comment on a b14, but I don’t they’re terrible.

I'm with you on wires and won't use a wireless keyboard myself either. She however wanted something easy to put out of the way, so has different priorities. I like mechanical keys and scissor key mechanisms, but honestly will be with my natural keyboard until it dies and can't be repaired.

I just got the misses a cheap wireless logitec silent touch keyboard. It's not bad to be honest and a lot better than I expected, they keys feel ok for a straight keyboard. I still like the MS natural keyboards, but they're not made any more :( I do know cherry also do a silent/quiet keyboard with a nice feel and they have licenced the key technology to others. Failing that, just get some old 80's IBM keyboards and an adapter and sod everyone else Have a look at the Cherry Stream: https://www.cherry.co.uk/cherry-stream-keyboard.html

You could disconnect the MAF sensor and get comparative readings. The car has a default program which will not have the car running well but will help to diagnose things. If you disconnect the MAF wire and fuel economy improves, you then know that is a good place to start. I take it you have checked the intake is free from obstructions (leaves etc) and also checked the exhaust for leaks/holes? You are getting to the limits of my knowledge here, so the above are based on things I have seen/had on other cars in the past now.