skomaz

Should be about 65litres so filling with 43 should have taken it to two thirds full... So that gauge is reading wrong

Mine went on our Octavia 4x4 at about double that mileage but started as a distinct droning noise under load in high gears. Does yours exhibit that sort of noise? If not how have they determined it is failing as I've seen a number of people suggests that it can look in a bad way with the rubber showing some cracking but not actually be failing... Just showing wear.

For reference the Octavia 4x4 we had definitely had a saddle tank with a 'hump' in the middle and a transfer pump to even out the level across it. However i understand it was a sngle tank that was connected at the top so when it was filling up fuel would naturally flow into the far side. Not sure if the Superb is the same but if it is that upper link would mean the level in the filler would drop as fuel was used... So im still betting on a blocked anti Syphon arrangement

I'd be surprised if it didn't... I used it on pretty much everything black on both cars and that would have included the roof bars on my FILs tourer. I think i have a tiny bit left still so if i get the chance I'll try it on a hidden part of the bars on the kodiaq

On the bumpers try some GTechniq C4. I used it on the black trim on two Civics (my old Mk8 and my FILs Mk9) and it brought them up a treat from that sort of condition and lasted a few years. It's expensive but if the trim is cleaned with isopropyl alcohol before the C4 is applied it seems to work and last really well. Plus it's a nice matt natural finish rather than false shiny black like some stuff is.

I'll stick my hand up to that - yes I do - I generally run the Eco (2.7 bar I think) pressures on a daily basis but up them to the loaded ones (3.0 at the rear from memory) when we're doing long fully loaded runs (eg holiday run to Belfast and back or a run to and from Lancaster to Uni with my daughter - both fully laden). There is a noticeable difference when laden as the back of the car is more stable, presumably due to less tyre squish)

Thanks for posting that test... I have the Falken 310s on my Swift and reckon they are pretty good... Which that test backs up.

Do you mind if I ask who by and rough cost? I'm in a similar situation with respect to no towbar and am getting to the stage where I probably need to remedy this so I can start using my bike rack again...

If they do that then it needs to be thoroughly dried before application of the Dynax - ideally through a something like a paint oven. That usually makes it more than a two day process.

Had similar on our old Fabia and Octavia 2 Estate - I simply re sealed over the top of the original using a polysuphide sealant (I think it was Tiger Seal)... You can probably check that your assumption is correct by using electrical tape as a temporary 'seal' between screen and body and seeing if that resolves the issue - if it does then you can re-seal properly

^^ what he said... The white looks much better than the murdered out black.

Niro, grandland or 3008

Qashqai

Level sensor? Actually scratch that... You mentioned the level sensor was working.

I wouldn't be that suspicious - the change in simply bringing the UK into line with VAG guidance that was already present in the rest of the world and the official workshop manuals. If you wanted to be suspicious the situation prior to the change was the time to be, when the UK 'recommendations' were at odds with everything else.

Yes it is - as pointed out by others - simply use the whole fob to press the starter button as per the manual

Chances are it's the seal around the rear light fitting. I'd be tempted to take the fitting off to check the seal and then refit it.

I believe someone on here was after roof rails from an estate... @Dace53

There is usually a small removable trim piece, or access hole that gives access to manually operate the latch. If you check it should be noted in the handbook.

On our Mk1 Estate that didn't have roof rails the fixings and holes for the rails were there - under the black drainage channel trim and covered by a waterproof aluminium tape. I looked at fitting them but decided not to in the end. However, it woudl have been an easy job as the black roof trim just peels out revealing the aluminium tape and fixing holes and etc.

I'd go with Lee's assumption here - If it's the bee sting type aerial there is a signal amplifier built into the aerial base that can eventually suffer from water ingress meaning the circuit board corrodes. Replacing the aerial base is usually the only solution (easily done as you can usually access through the rear hatch and drop the back of the headlining enough to get at the base of the aerial and the nut that holds it on.

I think it's an N80 putge valve...

@J.R.beat me to it... That does sound like a bearing rather than the prop doughnut. Not sure re Cheshire but you could try M&T transmissions in Sheffield... https://www.mandttransmissions.co.uk/ They are a decent bunch and know their stuff

Could you describe your issue... Is it a drone at about 2300rpm in a high gear underoad? If so it could just be the rear propshaft coupling on its way out. Some have also had issues with an internal bearing inside the diff but that's repairable too.

Can't comment on the belt but the key looks like a miniature padlock key... The sort you get on suitcases.