skomaz

Just use the same button - it does both actions.

Hmm... That looks like you put the screwdriver in and push something across the the right to release the light... Tricky!

Looking at the picture of the brake light itself it appears to be held in by clips rather than screwed. Hence putting something through that hole and giving it a good hard push and it should pop out.

Both may be in working order but the resistance on one will have changed and increased due to age / use and it probably being close to failing. The bulb monitoring system will have detected that and that it is above a certain threshold value and has therefore flagged the bulb out warning.

Probably just need to re sync it to the car... Press any button on the fob then unlock the car using the hidden key and lock barrel with a minute of press g the button.

If you look at the centre climate control knob that has 'menu' on it thete is a small round dot in the middle. I believe that is the cabin temperature sensor... Or at least it was in our old Octavia

We had the old Cc on our Octavia 4x4 and I always thought they were a good tyre... In bad weather and snow especially it just dragged itself through.

Yep our mk 2 4x4 was brilliant. We went looking for a direct replacement but they were like hens teeth so ended up with a Kodiaq 4x4.

Excellent... That's one hell of a mileage but it looks in great condition. Presumably it let an easy ish life and the decent weather meant minimal rust.

That looks great! Love the little lockers behind the rear wheels. And the big alloys on it.

You may just need to re sync the key again... I seem to recall the procedure is in the owners manual... Press any button on the remote then unlock using the key in the hidden lock barrel in the end of the drivers door handle.

You got a Ute!!

Sound sensible... I've said before EV manufacturers should be looking at doing this sort of thing instead of going for huge power.

Ahree re the soul... They are very colour sensitive but i know others who have also commented on the Darth Vader look at the front.

The kona is a nice place to be as well, or at least the higher spec ones are. I nearly got the MIL into one a while back.

Take a look at the hyundai kia EVs...

If the ones you have are incandescent then Auxito should do some suitable Led replacements. I've fitted a pair on my Swift and they made a big improvement. Otherwise there's always this... https://reversee.co.uk/

I can't see that casting bending but could imagine it fracturing under a big 'hit'?? Like you I'd expect the bearing to be making a noise though as well if that were the case as I'd expect that would be damaged too. More likely in my mind to have bent is the part of the axle that that assembly bolts to as it won't be as 'solid' or rigid in terms of structure. Having sais all that it really needs someone to strip it down and have a proper look before committing to a new axle?

Yes it should be easily visible by sighting down the side of the car from the back. And I guess a big pothole hit as described could cause it (I notice the camber is out on that side as well?). I'd love to know where its bent though (I'm also trying to think if there is anything else that could cause those readings - like a bent hub for example) and I can only imagine it's close to the hub so difficult to see any dmamge from underneath.

Yep toe in positive. The other bits of your earlier post sounded about right thoug No problem - we sometimes forget others aren't quite as up to speed with interpreting techie stuff so I figured a basic explanation might help. In terms of whether it will fix it... It should do provided the replacement is straight and there are no other issues.

If you don't understand the basics look at this for a basic guide. https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/mastering-the-basics-wheel-alignment/ The issues that those above are pointing out are not the camber values but the rear individual toe values that are way out., especially the left, meaning the thrust angle is wrong and you car is trying to steer from the back. In general toe values should be positive such that the wheels point inwards slightly. As, once driving and play in the suspension is taken up then point forwards. Yours are pointing outwards and the left quite significantly this means the tyres are being dragged sideways slightly as they roll wearing the inner edges. Now given one wheels is worse than the other you'd expect one wheel to wear more than the other but it doesn't as, being on the rear, the back of the car will, instead, naturally crab along sideways slightly to even things out and both tyres will wear thier inner edges. What is causing this appears, as Pete and Jr have said is likely to be a bent axle in the horizontal plane. Jr is right in that it MAY be possible to correct some of the issue and even the thrust angle out by adjusting the axle on its mountings if there is enough play in them but that won't fix the underlying problem. And neither will changing suspension components like springs and dampers. As to how it has occurred we'll probably never know but an accident, clipping a kerb badly, or even just a big pothole could have caused it, as could, say, garage damage such as when on a lift. Either way the damage may not be visible but the resulting toe out issue is. Does that help explain?

Would you be anywhere near an outfit called Wheels in Motion and guy called Tony Bones? Hes well worth a shot and talking to if you are.

Not wishing to set hares running but does your ACC work OK? I only ask as I sure I've read about relatively minor bumps to that area can lead to the radar needing to be realigned and calibrated and it its had a new grille and there's a mark on the radar cover... Well who knows it's got to be worth checking.

I'm pretty sure things like the porsche taycan do exactly that.

Gut feeling is that will have been aftermarket - when we had a factory fit on our old Octavia the foam insert in the spare wheel in the boot had a specific shaped hole to fit the detachable towbar.