skomaz
FREEDOM
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Everything posted by skomaz
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Would you be anywhere near an outfit called Wheels in Motion and guy called Tony Bones? Hes well worth a shot and talking to if you are.
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Not wishing to set hares running but does your ACC work OK? I only ask as I sure I've read about relatively minor bumps to that area can lead to the radar needing to be realigned and calibrated and it its had a new grille and there's a mark on the radar cover... Well who knows it's got to be worth checking.
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I'm pretty sure things like the porsche taycan do exactly that.
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Gut feeling is that will have been aftermarket - when we had a factory fit on our old Octavia the foam insert in the spare wheel in the boot had a specific shaped hole to fit the detachable towbar.
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Yes - very much so... Usually involving something simple (eg like a brick and an old laptop, or a signal repeater) and resulting in far less / cheaper damage to be repaired after the vehicle has ben stolen. As others have pointed out Skodas are pretty low on the 'want to steal' list and, even if they weren't anybody going to that sort of length is probably going to get it regardless and is likely to be the type of person that will not take 'no; for an answer and you'd rather not challenge whilst they were in the process of taking the car. If you're that concerned about theft of your own vehicle then maybe you need to consider additional security / immobilising measures, most probably of the mechanical variety.
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If someone wants to go to that length to nick my skoda they're welcome to it. I really wouldn't worry about it if i were you its highly unlikely and there are easier ways to steal a car.
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Gummed up carbs? If so I've found a decent shot of injector cleaner sometimes works.
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You do realise that figure has been largely debunked now don't you? It's not 'deaths' it's a statistical analysis with very wide confidence levels and an 'equivalence' number. Winton Centre Cambridge
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That 15% will increase as people realise they wont be able to teplace thier ICE vehicle with another one. As to the MX5 comments you clearly missed the raison d'etre as they were never meant to be fast. But each to thier own so I'll ignore that bit Re EV costs... Yes they will come down over time as we move from 'early adoption' to relatively common.
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Not really bizarre - just fact. People will continue to run ICE vehicles (not just cars but LGVs and HGVs too. It's a standard S-Curve response - initial slow take up of EVs that increases and then declines towards a flatline proportion, as those who want to have already done so. As for the Petrol curve that hump approaching 2025 reflects those that want to keep running an ICE vehicle and will purchase just before the ban comes in. It's actually totally logical. Typical example - one of the vehicles I run was first registered in February 1995 (so 28 years old). It's low mileage in great condition and still fun to drive. I wouldn't have dreamt of getting rid of it six years ago and have no intention of doing so for many years... Why on earth would I just because someone thinks it's a bit old and an EV might be cheaper to run - that's totally not the point!? If you think of the situation now - how many Y-Reg vehicles do you see on the road? Quite a lot in some areas as they are cheap and many are very much still serviceable. And that's not forgetting those owning 'classics' or similar. To me your response suggests you are quite out of touch with reality on certain things.
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Name and Shame the dealer?
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For info - latest Govt car mileage forecast splits by fuel from the National Road Traffic Projections of later 2022: As I said - ICE vehicles will be around for many years yet...
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ICE vehicles will be around for a long time yet. Yes the proportion of new sales will drop a bit now but will then increase just before the ban comes in but either way ICE vehicles will still be on the road 25 years from now
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I don't have the circuit diagrams but agree re the pictures showing those colours. And a break like that would cause the issue. Either way it ought to be fixed regardless of what it is.
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Personally I'd go metallic, winter pack and rough road. Anything else is pretty pointless or added complexity for minimal benefits to my mind.
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Fair point... Mine are DIY ones made from high amperage welding cable 😀
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Getting back to the subject matter... Just buy some heavy duty ones rather that thinner light duty ones and you'll be fine.
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It won't be the battery. Just swap the bulbs over left to right and make sure the contacts are clean. You'll only have one fog light on the drivers side at the back that is activated but the factory fit bulbs to both light units so you effectively already have a replacement spare. Even if the filament looks fine and is working it could be that it's starting to fail and the resistance is increasing which is enough to flag the error message
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Graham, Just a very quick example of the potential difference in costs between insurer repairs and non-insurer repairs. I recently had my swift damaged whilst parked. I don't know where t happened and clearly the person that did it did a runner. The damage was a dented front wing above the wheel, a very small 1" scrape on the front bumper down to the plastic in front of the wheel and a tiny scuff on the front drivers-side wheel decal (the car has red 'accents' on the diamond cut alloys. The initial quote from an insurance-based repair outfit I had used before and contacted direct, and not via insurance, asking for a cheapest repair possible was £715 for the paintwork and a further £400 for the alloy plus £175 for a set of replacement decals. So a total cost of around £1,300. Asking around I found a well regarded local bodyshop who did the work for the sum total of £270, about a fifth of the original quote. The work is indistinguishable from the original, unrepaired elements alongside from any viewpoint and in any lighting. I realise your situation is slightly different but it gives you some idea of the true cost of the work vs what the insurers will tell you.
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One simple question... Have you told the insurance company that their write off settlement value is too low and does not reflect market value. If you cannot find a similar car to the written off one for the settlement value they have offered with similar spec and mileage then you need to do the above and show them examples of similar spec and mileage cars in sale for higher prices and tell them they need to match them in thier settlement. From past experience with my dad their first offer will always be far too low. You should not be running around talking to thier assessor etc. However if you've already accepted the low settlement offer your stuffed unfortunately and will need to put it down as a life lesson.
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Yes - I used 25mm wide stuff to tape over the gap between the screen and the bodywork at the sides of the screen against the A pillar down as far as I could to the scuttle panel and then the top of the screen against the roof, making sure the roof tape overlapped the side tape at the top and that the tape was into the roof gutters. It didn't come off even in rain on the motorway and lasted months, as electrical tape is generally waterproof, albeit you need to be careful not to stretch it too much when applying it as it can come loose when it shrinks back.. I'd hesitate using duck tape as there's a risk of it pulling the lacquer off the paint (it shouldn't but why risk it?...). For me the ultimate solution was filling the joint between the glass and the bodywork with a suitable sealant (can't remember what I used but it was probably something like tiger seal or similar from Toolstation/screwfix).
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Apologies i meant electrical tape... Must've had a brain fart with the ptfe bit!
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The PTFE tape trick certainly worked for me and helped narrow down the windscreen issue on the Octavia and also a similar rear screen issue on it's predecessor - a Fabia estate.
