skomaz

Absolute prats queueing. I'd read somewhere it was about six BP stations and a few Esso stations down south that were affected... That's all but eejits will be eejits...

Hmm. Will have to double check again. Given the convenience of the autohold it would be nice to code out if poss, say after a few seconds of being stationary but it seems it's not possible

Indeed... But on the kodiaq its electronic and seems to retain the brake lights on if the autohold engaged when you stopped...

As above does anyone know if the brake lights staying on when the autohold is on can be coded out? I've noticed that the brake lights stay on when stopped and autohold is active, even if I don't have the brake pedal pressed. Its one of my pet hates and is blinding when sat behind others that do it so don't really want to inflict it on the people behind me myself...

Whilst I now use 10 regularly I still reckon XP was the most logical and easy to use... I just hope 11 isn't another 8... Remember that? It was total ****e (and still is on the one laptop we have that still has it on...

Pretty certain it's a stopped vehicle detection radar... Probably at about 500m intervals??

If you want a set I've took a set out of our 2007 Octavia 4x4 a couple of months back. They were working fine when I removed them so would be happy to pass them on for a few quid and postage as I won't be fitting them to the Kodiaq (think I even have some spare burners somewhere). I think these were the ones: XENON HID CONVERSION KIT H1 H3 H7 H8 H9 H11 HB3 9005 HB4 9006 | eBay

Thanks for the info re codes - mines a 2018 with no service book (just an online record) so that may explain why I can't find the sticker in the boot and no book with the sticker in like our old Octavia had. I've tried a few online links to check things but no joy as yet... I guess I'll keep trying!

Quick question - where di you find the PR codes? I can't seem to find my sticker with them on that usually resides in the boot etc.

I would suggest you check with them what they will do as part of the Haldex 'service'. If it is just an oil change, as per the Skoda recommendation, then I'd go elsewhere, or take it to a VAG, or even a Volvo Specialist who knows what they are doing. It really needs the pump removing, the filter cleaning and the oil changing as well as, possibly, a pump relearn. (see the link from Teir above). We had an Octavia 4x4 for 14 years, made sure all of the above was carried out regularly and never had a Haldex problem but, as you and others have found out, they can fail for lack of being looked after properly.

Had a look on Autotrader last night for a laugh... we picked up a low mileage second hand Kodiaq 4x4 in May this year and for something similar now your looking at £6k more than we paid 4 months ago - truly mad!

Try angling the nozzle a bit as well. We found with our bold Octavia 4x4 that we occasionally had the same problem as you but usually managed to find an angle that worked. Also the breather as you called it is just a water drain tube that runs to the wheelarch.

In my experience most 'new' CR batteries push out about 3.4v and kessy fobs stop working as kessy fobs at around 3v.

Just out of interest and for reference, how often are updates issued? We updated our 2018 Kodiaq bolero a few months ago courtesy of this thread but might there be another update in the future?

I stand corrected! that's a retrograde step and puts me off the thought of a newer model (not that I currently have personalisation but it would be nice!)

It may be that the valve element (effectively a disc with a silicon seal arrangement, has also moved and 'rotated' within the drum of the valve preventing you getting it pushed back together. may be worth pulling it apart completely and checking / trying again.

turn the steering full to the right, then you should be able to access the inner wheel arch and it's screws /fixings sufficiently to remove enough and fold the liner back/ up a bit to gain access to the washer bottle and pump. The fixings shoudl all be easy to work out and identify.

yes - that's the diverter valve (the motor spins one way for front and the other for back screen and the valve blocks the pipe to the relevant other screen). In theory you should be able to pop that back in but it might not last... so a new pump and motor might be on the cards

Yes I have seen he deals and I do get that it works for certain people.., you for example if your dar has problems. Its just not for me as I run my cars differently to most I guess...

beleive that is exactly it yes...

Not quite true... some of us live on hills in higher areas (eg the Pennines in my case) and often get bad weather / snow / slush and torrential rain - so whilst I very rarely venture off-tarmac, 4x4, combined with all season or winter tyres, is effectively a 'must' for us to be able to get out and about during winter. Having drive FWD and 4x4's regularly the 4x4 also brings with it a huge amount of additional stability in bad weather.

Having test-drive both DSG and manual, before buying a 1.4 manual, I thought the throttle control seemed much easier on the manual, as did my wife... You could always try the 'linear' throttle response change in VCDS to see if that helps??

Or buy one of these... https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=12v+extension+lead&crid=2FIMR47OPKRCE&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_2

If you've tried three then its likely an issue with the contacts not making contact with the battery or a bad connection on the fob (eg one of the battery contacts having broken loose from the circuit board). I'd start by tweaking the contacts and bending them out a bit to make sure they push against the battery.

Fair enough in your case i guess, but if buying new from stock even if someone gets a good deal i reckon they'll still take more of a hit in depreciation than they'll 'make' due to the current situation?? If someone was going to buy anyway then that's slightly different but selling and buying new 'just because' seems a daft decision to me. Maybe its just me...