skomaz

Check where the gas struts fit the hatch. The studs can occasionally work loose and watervget in. A bit of silicon and tightening them up can usually sort it.

Don't think so - they seem to be backing BEV's with only Mercedes, Honda, Hyundai and Toyota actively looking at Hydrogen fuel cells (Toyota have just launched the new Mirai)

That's not a sumpguard, it's an undertray. A sumpguard would be a much more substantial steel plate / casting.

I'm getting mid to late 30's (so 35 - 38mpg ish) from a 1.4 tsi 4x4, so I'd expect a 1.5 to be similar if not more if its FWD.

I think on an L&K you simply need to set 'travel mode' via the infotainment

Noted and I'll keep a look out in SW Sheffield...

Afternoon all, Just done quick scan of the Kodiaq with Carista before my subscription ran out and it flagged the following codes. None are anything to be too concerned about as far as I can tell as everything seems to be functioning fine but figured I’d ask on here just in case as there seems to be limited info on the web re some of them. The first are from the Central Electrics and the second from the Infotainment. I'm wondering if they may have popped up as I've done a few tweaks using Carista (eg alarm chirp, fogs for CH/LH, cornering fogs / rear lights on when boot open etc. and have updated the Bolero software. Cheers

I third the built chamber auto-qd. Its good stuff and easy to use diluted but still gives a good finish. In fact all ofnthier stuff is spot on really.

Does that have a Merv engine like some of the other older Chryslers? My brother in law has an old 2.2 diesel PT Cruiser that does and it seems pretty bomb proof

That reminds me - I've the same job to do on my MX5 as the leather gaitor is cracking and I probably needs to replace the rubber shift boots below it again as well (last done in the early 00's)...

Depends - if you still need a car are you going to be paying over the odds for one for the same reasons used car prices are high... personally it's hype and I only buy cars when I need to (I don't buy into the 'need a new car every three years on PCP' state of mind) so it doesn't really figure in my thoughts...

This may or may not help but many years ago I had a similar problem and I eventually found it was missing body seal between the rear wing and rear scuttle panel. But the area missing sealant was behind the bumper and difficult to find and see.

I'd suggest that's normal 'wear and tear'... it's nothing like the Dunlop SP01 issue I had a few years back where cracking was within the circumferential grooves and deep enough for the carcass to start showing.

I asked about the Haldex service history on our 'new to us' Kodiaq... It's just over 3 years old and the service record showed an oil change earlier this year at just under 17,000 miles. I've asked the dealer that did and supplied the car whether the filter was cleaned at the same time given it can be a known issue (even though not acknowledged by VAG) and guess what... no reply! A diagnostic check using a VAG specific hand held reader shows no codes but I'm still thinking it needs to go to a good independent specialist to be done again properly...

I have a colleague in a similar position and he looked at various thigs, including seven seat SUV's like a Kodiaq, but eventually settled on a Touran. Other than that we borrowed a Peugeot 807 a few years back and found it was pretty good...

I used cross climates on our 'tweaked' 4x4 Estate TDI for a number of years, albeit in a slightly smaller size (205/55 R16 94V in both standard and XL ratings). I found they were excellent and never had a problem with them - they certainly weren't unpredictable (they were anything but in my experience) and were very grippy indeed. Tyre pressures did need to be a couple of psi higher than recommended though.

If its Bristol Street Chesterfield that's where we got our Kodiaq from and the sales guys were OK to deal with. We pushed hard and they moved to get us a deal. However we didn't take their extended warranty or wheel and tyre package, nor the service package as I've never yet scuffed an alloy, only ever had one puncture in over 30 years of driving and the service package didn't seem that competitive compared to a good Indy we've used before given the car was three years old. The extras are where they make their money which is why they push them. So overall sales were good IMHO. However, it did go back to them for a tailgate leak and the service manager tried to bull**** me it was normal and gave me some crap about the way the car drains which was a load of tosh. I've since fixed it myself but my impression is they didn't really want to know and a subsequent enquiry about whether they cleaned the haldex filter when they changed the oil has gone unanswered, so I get the impression the service dept don't really like dealing with people who have long standing skoda experience and know what they are talking about... As I said though we had no complaints re the sales guy we dealt with. Edit: Forgot to say... The car came very well prepared... Clean, polished with a couple of PDRs sorted, serviced and with four new tyres fitted and the sales guy took us through setting the infotainment up and has since provided a copy of the service record and been generally helpful.

"need to change it"...??? Why?... If you love it keep it.

And beurocratic / government decision making processes...

Could also be a bearing, track rod end or suspension bushes on the way out as well...

My understanding is that R1234yf isn't as good a refrigerant as R134a and is more prone to leaks and hence more is needed and more fuel is used to drive the system as well.??

Our Kodiaq came with Falken Azenis FK510, the SUV version obviously, and whilst I was dubious at first I have to admit to being impressed with them. They grip well, are quiet for a big tyre and seem to be getting good reviews.

I actually think those louvres look OK and suit the lines of the bonnet...

Nice - another one joins the Briskoda MX5 / Skoda sub-owners club! Mines the Mk1 below:

i had an engine steam cleaned a few years back - although I'd call it more of a hot pressure wash really - it didn't cause any long term issues but in the short term caused rough running and needed a fair few connections 'drying out' to resolve. I'm surprised they can't just trace the leak back up the block etc. On my old 4x4 any oil in the engine bay only came from two places - the first was a blown turbo to intercooler hose at the back of the engine and the second was from the cam cover gasket at the front after a cambelt change. The fuel pressure rail had to be moved to gain access and is held in place using the same fasteners as the cam cover, which hadn't been properly tightened afterwards (took me a while to find that one!)