R_U_AFA

Folding, because the spring for the flip blade flip tends to fly out, and is awkward to put back in place. Although the non folding one can be a bit awkward because it has the battery for the little light in it.

I had to go to 3 different locksmiths myself, the locksmith that would do it was a local one man independent locksmith. The big chain locksmiths wouldn't even entertain the idea (Timpsons to name drop weren't slightly interested) That's Part of the reason I sourced parts like the blade and chip myself. Just to prove it can be done here is mine, that has the good quality blade in it as well(you can tell by the colour of the metal. I would show the chip inside, but it's a faf to open the key up. Bought it new or it's a It a modified octavia 3 rear wiper motor, I also had to make a custom mounting bracket, and wire in an extra release relay wiring system.

The Chinese ones are rubbish. Yes, they will eventually snap, it happened to me. Better quality ones are available, and can be swapped over. Mine is the same as this, with the exception that hood isn't alarmed, and there is a motor to actuate the trunk release mechanism when trunk button pressed(pressing trunk button also disarms alarm). This is the way I leave the car now, it allows thieves to open trunk to see there is nothing to steal, and saves them smashing a window.

The way I have it set up, then No, not mechanically. It's hard to explain. There is a difference to consider between the trunk being "shut" and being "locked" Basically if I press the trunk release button on the folding key, it replicates what the release cable at the side of the drivers seat does. So if you imagine the trunk can be locked with the key so no-one can open the trunk by pressing the button where the key fits (as normal with any Felicia/favorit) Now Pressing the trunk button on folding key fob "pops" the trunk the same way the release cable does. Pressing the trunk release button on the key fob again now does nothing, because it trunk is now ajar. Now the trunk door needs to be physically shut. The trunk is now "shut" and "locked" (so long as the key position in the trunk door hasn't changed) During this process I haven't mentioned at which points the alarm is armed or disarmed to make it more simple. So It just locks,1x drivers door, 3x passenger doors. And monitors if there is unauthorized opening of the trunk.

Yes, I've done this aswell, but unlock with just the trunk button. If you look at the truck release mechanism it has 2 locations for the release cable to fit (it depends on if it's LHD or RHD which one is used, and it's just a case of using the non used location for your chosen release method) I must admit there was quite a bit of extra work involved in getting this feature working for not much in return, because I've stopped locking the trunk with the key now anyhow.

Don't forget you would need to buy new blank immobilizer chips to put in the new folding key, and then have them copied/coded from old keys.

Just thinking, if you have the instructions for your current system, you may be able to have it learn the signal from new key fobs.

Yes, I'm in the process of doing this (although I've been doing this on and off for 2 years and still not finished it) The only thing is that I've used a cheap Chinese system, very similar to this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150967239571 Also a warning that these cheap "HAA" key blades will eventually snap, so will need changing for better quality blades. Generally the alarm system has a learning mode to learn the signal from new/additional keys/key fobs (but again that is the Chinese types) It depends if this "better type" of alarm system allows this or not.

What's the minimum thickness for the friction material on rear brake shoes? I can find it for the favorit but not for the Felicia.

No, but I did open the bleed nipple whilst trying to push back, I thought that would suffice for relieving any pressure / giving room for the fluid.

Including new diaphragm spring? Did you put in a new release bearing, something doesn't look quite right here to me I'd also try what Blue8793841 said, and have a play with the cable adjustment, I know other people have issues with the cable after fitting a new clutch.

I'll just tidy up and finish of this thread; So no way I could get the piston to retract, (might even be seized), bought a second hand caliper £30, piston in that pushed back easily, change over was a bit of a pain, brake fluid everywhere but sorted. Of course the pad's metal backing plates have eaten away at the disc, but that's a later job, because the bolts are seized and rusted out. The piston in the other side was incredibly stiff aswell, but at least I was able to use the windback tool on that side all be it with an extender leaver for extra purchase/ turning effort. But without the tool there would've been no chance to retract piston, best £14 spent. Either that or just pay a mechanic.

Be careful when putting in the redex, they have shortened the neck on the bottle, and it no longer reaches and opens the little flap in the fuel filler neck. Result redex all down you bodywork. Happened to me last time I bought a bottle.

Old Felicia's will always only just scrape through on emissions, it's an old engine type with very few sensors to absolute precision regulate fuel / air mix like modern cars. It's got to a point that I just put a new catalyst on every year, because the Felicia's pre 2001, the catalysts don't have to be type approved, so can get a new one for £50-£60. It'll be knackered by the following MOT, but I just accept it as a running cost.

Yeh, though so, otherwise the lugs in the piston would be pointless. Tryed that, but couldn't get any pressure to force it back in, with the caliper still on car. I've see some posts saying that it's possible to use needle nose pliers, but tryed that and there was no way it would work.

Bit of help needed, the rear pads need replacing on my father's 1.2 Octavia (cable handbrake), but because the pads have worn so low (right down to backing plates) the piston has been ejected so far as to not let my wind back tool fit into the space in the caliper. Just seeing if the old fashioned method of using a g-clamp can be used, or is there some sort threaded portion in the caliper bore that means the piston needs a twisting motion to push it back in. Thanks.

Just looked at the paint pdf and there is 7 different whites listed. Knowing skoda all the Felicia pickup's in a certain year range will be the same white, but it's knowing which one it is.

Thought the paint looked in good condition, nearly said in last post looks like it's been resprayed any how.

Yeh, The UK registration document (v5) just has a generic colour listed, so it will just say white.

On the pickup's I believe it would have been on the drivers b-pillar, but that will probably be long gone by now it only being a paper sticker. There's a pined topic at the top of this forum area with all the paint colours. After 20 years the paint won't be a factory match any how. Unless you are wanting the factory colour for a respray.

Yes, there's a plastic cover inside the door. PM'ed

Wouldn't bother, I'd say only use these in an emergency situation. Something on the unit to stop it seizing in place should work, a bit of grease, a little oil.

Have you sorted it?

Does this replace the factory hot air collector. (Which might act as a heat shield). Unless Felicia's sold in Greece didn't come with one.

Mabey on the knurled ring, which secures the cable to the drive unit, there's not much room to swing a hammer down there, is there (a interposed piece of wood as an extender mabey) Think key is to get the unit to spin round a bit, before upwards.