R_U_AFA

I wondered if 3d printing would be possible, but surely having the original gear scanned, then printed, will cost more than a replacement. So I tryed to purchase the one from megaparts.eu I mentioned earlier but they cancelled my order. Just can't bring myself to pay £30 plus postage for one of the eBay ones, which probably will be broken anyway.

This is what happens when you try to use rear wiper when it's frozen to screen. Disintegration of plastic gear.

You could do with cleaning the water drain hole out aswell.

In the UK all Felicia and Favorit (and presumably older models) parts have been omitted from the dealer (ETKA?) parts system, so you have to specify that you are looking for a part for an older skoda, otherwise when asking you simply get told no part exists. Always helps to have correct part number first before contacting them.

The difference is only in the key format being used, later models used HAA type keys, earlier models a more traditional type key. I think your best bet is to source one with a key from a breaker / donor vehicle.

On top of this I sealed all the way around, and between the windscreen wiper plastic cowl and windscreen seal once it was refitted.

I'm thinking of going down route of fitting just the towbar, and leaving the electrics for now, because I've checked and there is no factory fitted towbar prep. It is a westfalia towbar I've seen for sale anyhow, so good to know.

It is the windscreen seal, common problem with the Felicia, lots of threads on here about it, including one somewhere on how to solve it with sealant.

Mine is the same at the same temperature ranges, it can be real irritating, I've tried different things, and took lots of measurements to solve it, but to no avail. Over the years there has been a lot of similar threads with people having the exact same issue, and non have had a solution. It seems only to affect MPI engines, I don't know if it's a flaw in the ECU fueling / ignition timing parameters in those temperature ranges, or if there is common fault (possibly coolant temp sensor or throttle clean needed). But by now I have a feeling when this is happening, so on the first attempted start I can just keep cranking engine with throttle fully open until engine catches and revs up to around 3k rpm.

It's condensate, these engines suffer quite bad with it.

You can still get these from main dealers, I got one 6 months ago, and they are still priced at about £1.

Yes, You can remove them whilst cupping your hand over them to catch them. But a good tip is to put a bit of tape over them then unclip them, then hopefully the clip is still stuck to the bit of tape.

I had my blower motor seize up when I didn't use it over one summer, anyhow a little lubricant on motor bearings whilst spinning it freed it up. The motor bushes can become stuck and stop contacting the communicator, and stop it working that way aswell. Just be careful when removing the motor cover, because the retaining clips fly off to the ends of the earth, never to be seen again.

How easy is it to self fit a tow bar (including 7pin electrics) to a 13plate hatchback octavia. Are the mounting points already drilled in the chassis, or would there be measuring and drilling required, also are the electrics plug and play, or again is that something that needs sorting. When I fitted a tow bar to my Felicia it was easy to do, but I'm guessing it's a different case with the Octavia. Whilst doing some searches I notice that @DanoHosko did it yourself, any advice. Thanks.

Translation is a bit sketchy But maybe admin could consider making this a pinned topic

Solid metal brake lines? The standard ones can be used and bent to correct positions, and the rears joined if needed. Of course you may feel safer having no joints in the lines, and use donor, or newly formed ones anyhow. I haven't got fully into the loom yet, but the majority of ABS wiring can be un spliced and used stand alone, but there is 1 wire to obd port, and 1 to dash warning lamp (if wanted. Also you will need to connect into a current; live,switched live, and earth. I do believe that there were more Felicia's on the continent with ABS than here in the UK. In fact at one point I was trying to purchase the servo unit from Greece, untill seller decided that postage to UK wasn't worth the trouble.

It is possible and has been done. And it's something I've been looking at doing for over 5 years, and the process was speeded up by an accident last year. I've only just this week finally got all the parts needed, after searching for so long. ABS is standalone, only thing is that even though the system is separate it's wires are combined in the cars main loom, for example the front right sensor wires go from the abs pump/ECU next to servo in the engine bay back into the car behind dashboard at the left, across the car behind the dash, then back into the engine bay on the right side. So you would need the loom from a donor aswell. Or you could create your own mini loom just for the ABS. Other parts needed are: Front hub carriers (although standard ones can be reworked, it'd be cheaper to use donor ones) Brake servo Master cylinder ABS pump + mounting bracket Rear brake backplate Rear drums ABS Sensors The previously mentioned wiring loom Also depending on which model you have the rear axle brake pressure limiting valve may need removing.

So after reading your posts, and then the other topics listed earlier by D.fylaktos we need to establish if the issue is in the gauge or not. So as far as understand it you need to disconnect the connector at the fuel pump, then turn the ignition on, you should then get a reading on the gauge of around half a tank( or maybe full).

Just to help here could someone post the wiring diagram like the Haynes one for instrument cluster. @D.FYLAKTOSyou normally have these Thanks if you can post

Got it now for yellow block: 1- yellow - fuel gauge 2 - red - live feed / brake fluid w/l 3 - gray green - lighting feed / dash back lights 7 - yellow or yellow green (diesel) - tachometer 9 - black - clock 10 - brown - earth

I used the "ABAKUS" one from autodoc, and it's still working but, I can see that it's out of stock now.

If you give me the colour of the wires in each connector on the yellow block, I should be able to help. The individual ports are numbered on the yellow connector, just say which colour goes to each numbered port.

Found it, but pictures have disappeared now. The seal can leak even if it isn't rusty under there.

The water inside the car is coming from the windscreen seal leaking (common problem) my Felicia is doing it again, but I've got to change windscreen so will sort it then. It's possible to sort it by using silicon sealant, there is a thread on here with pictures, from when someone else did it.

Might only be the contact points, try giving them a clean up first. You can test the bulb by contacting it straight to the little battery using a bit of spare wire aswell.