R_U_AFA

Sometimes refitting the lockplate and using it as a leaver will help free it up. Either twisting clockwise/counter clockwise, or gently in an upwards direction. First thing they will do is resort to brute force anyhow.

Arh, well the way I understand the wiring diagram (and I could be wrong here) is that that point is after the relay and fuse, so should eliminate those components. Do you mean nothing at the high current connection 30 for the relay? Or nothing at the low current side 85/86 which is controlled by ecu?

I'm not 100% sure where you have tested continuity to, but this wire (arrowed) Is this point/connector in the diagram

So is it now working after cleaning?

You should be able to get 12v on the pin 30 location on the highlighted relay(fuel pump relay), it's permanent live. If not you only need to backtrack to the battery from there. If someone could post Diagram 4: Magneti-Marelli engine management , it might help aswell.

Hope you don't mind me asking, but how much did they charge to reset the airbag light.

As Paws4Thot said, I'm pretty sure (not 100%) you'll need to use an obd tool to reset the light. The airbag control unit is separate to the engine ECU so won't reset with a battery disconnect. I'd do it for you but you're quite a distance away from me.

Unless the radio goes into safe mode, and the unlock code is unknown. That'd be an extra £40 for a de-code.

It's always been loosely fitted on the threaded portion on the ones I've bought. Think you've got the right idea though to remove it, mabey a little lubricant also.

If you do decide to change the ECU. I don't think you need to use re-programmer, or immo delete unit, if you can get a ECU + set of keys and possibly the immo unit, (ignition barrel as well if you don't want to use new key as a immobilizer fob) all would have to be from the same breakers vehicle.

How common are Felicia ECU failures? Can only really remember recalling one topic about it on here. I'd deffo check the hall sensor wiring and connectors for continuity.

Yes that's right you would need this to start the MPI engine with its original key. I believe there are ways of fooling the ECU into starting without that unit, but I don't know how. (Immobilizer emulator?) What engine was removed from the pick up, 1.3 carburettor? Or 1.3 spi fuel injection? If it was the fuel injection engine it should be relatively simple to switch over the fuel + engine management system to the MPI engine.

How much of the MPI engine do you have? Do you have it's ECU? Wiring loom? What about the pick up, do you still have it's engine with its components?

Me thinks somebody's been lying at DM Keith's Wakefield. Just removed these spark plugs from car after it started misfiring. These are supposedly only 2 years old with 7000 miles on. They were supposed to be changed with turbo. But IMHO it looks like they haven't. But failing that they were supposedly changed at a previous service anyhow. I'd say these have never been changed and are the originals. Of course I can't prove that they weren't changed but from years of working on engines I would say they hadn't been.

Well it does work, but doesn't recognise the car as a VAG group vehicle.

Thought I'd jump on the back of this thread. I'm wanting to check for stored fault codes on a 1.2tsi Octavia3 (yr13) This is what I use on my Felicia, and also used it on octavia2 Just wondering if it'll work on Octavia3 REMEMBER I'M ONLY WANTING TO READ FAULT CODES NOTHING ELSE.

Oh, If you've got the rocker cover off, check the push rods. That's another simple one.

I agree this is a puzzling head scratcher, I also agree with your summations as well. You obviously know your way around an engine. I can't really see the engine seizing due to corrosion in such a short period of time but it's possible. My initial thought was clutch friction disc stuck to flywheel, but it can't be that. So, Some thoughts: I nearly suggested this yesterday, but just wondering if it's a ancillary component on the auxiliary belt that has seized, i.e water pump, p.s. pump. Maybe check to see if the belt is super taught at some point, or remove it completely. My other thought is if something is jamming the flywheel, mabey for some reason hall sensor fallen apart? or a clutch diaphragm spring arm snapped off. (Both very very unlikely) Of course there are numerous components in the engine that could jam or seize, too many to list and even if it is one of them, it would probably be cheaper to replace engine than repair. Sometimes going simple is best so I'd Check drivebelt and/or plenty of WD-40 or some Redex down bores. And see what the results are.

I wouldn't try starting it on the starter again untill you can turn the engine by hand How long since you last had it running? Do you mean starter just stopped turning, or the car lurched forward as if the car had been left in gear then the starter stopped. How much can you move the road wheel by hand in either direction? Zero, a few mm, a couple of cm. I'm making an assumption it's the 1.3 petrol engine.

Could be worth checking gear selector shaft, o-rings are known for wearing out.

I'd say it sounds like a 1st,2nd synchro or selector fork issue. But hopefully not. Best way to test engine/transmission mounts is just to grab hold of engine and give it a good shake and rag it around, and see how much movement it has. The square shaped mount doesn't do too much in way of damping, but it is the one that seems to wear the most.

Thought my way seemed way too easy.

Well charged it today, seems to have survived ok. Just out of interest, would my originally proposed idea have worked for a 6v battery?

Ok, I'll use them 2 on the fronts, I'll have to make sure I don't get them mixed up when fitting them.

Wait a minute, I think I may have slipped up and this is a 12v battery anyhow.