R_U_AFA

It's definitely not from the unions, but I'm going to double check that it's not from between the reservoir and MC. Fluid changes at least every 2 years.

Seems that there is some brake fluid getting past the seals Think I already know the answer, but just asking in case someone thinks it could be something else. Not sure if there is a rebuild kit for the master cylinder.

Not sure if that makes me more confident or not, that video doesn't provide any info, aswell as the matrix garage is based in West Yorkshire 200 miles away from the registered address, although as far as I understand it's just somewhere where you can get your purchased parts fitted if you want. I suppose it's a bit like the black circles website situation. Although I nearly did place an order today.

Can you elaborate on what this entails

Has anyone ordered from ML Performance? Are they genuine? I have not seen them before. A little concerned that their registered address is a mushroom farm in Surrey. https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/ If you've used them what was your experience.

The rust can't be that bad if it's passed an MOT test, unless the tester wasn't very observant. The Felicia front mounting points tend not to rust badly, sometimes a little lower down behind the coolant expansion tank, and air filter box. It's the rears you should keep an eye on, these seem to rust out for fun on the pick up. Panels could be cut from a donation vehicle with corrosion free mounts.

It's a a 2nd hand one from a vehicle being broken for spares. It has got a little blooming in corners, and a few very small chips. Ok otherwise. Cost £80 A quick pic of the sealing, it's not pretty but does the job.

Something like the 2nd one. I used Black bathroom silicone sealant from wickes(wickes is a UK builders / DIY chain store) It's what I used as a quick fix 8 years ago when the old windscreen seal started letting water in, and it worked, so I just went for it again. I also only had 20mins before it got dark so had to be quick. The key word is SILICONE, because there are plenty of sealants out there that just melt when they get wet. Didn't think that there was any sealant used from the factory, probably why so many Felicia's ended up with wet carpets. That combined with the 2 little holes under the windscreen seal.

Thanks to people that contributed to this thread. Changed my windscreen today, it is doable by yourself, but I wasn't able to get the old one out without cracking it. That was whilst keeping the old seal intact. I do think some sort of lubricant would of been helpful. Meanwhile I was quite surprised to find that there was only one tiny bit of rust under there. I've also used some sealant round the new screen after fitment just to make sure on the leakage front. @djaychela I don't suppose you've got that pic of how to start off the windscreen/seal removal.

I've found some liquid latex, that I should be able to brush on to my template to make a new undertray to fit the gap. Although I'm not sure about the strength or flexibility of latex.

To me it looks like it's half finished. On most modern cars this bit is also covered by the undertray. I been thinking maybe trying fiberglass

I've fitted this aftermarket wheel arch liner, and I'm somewhat happy with it. But I don't like this gap that it leaves behind the fog lamp. I've knocked up this very rough template to fill this gap. But I need some advice on how to make this in a harder material, preferably in flexible plastic. I don't know if there is something out there that I can dissect to make fit, or whether I will have to manufacture it somehow myself.

@hzoltaan I used this guide when I fitted mine, it's extremely usefull. Yes, Unless someone has cut them off I'm 99.5% sure they will be there. Just have a good look around, it may already be tucked through the hole in the front panel, next to the radiator.

The Italian one from skoda-parts is the exact one I fitted, and I have had no issues so far, it's been fitted for just over a year now. Remember there is some adjustment available from where abouts a you bolt the regulator's arm to the beam axle. What?? It's a Felicia, it's got at least another 30 years in it.😁

That's what I did, I seem to remember that I used 60mm length, the extra 2mm isn't of much concern, because the bolts screw into what are effectively captive nuts on the beam axle which allows the extra length to pertrude. Oh, and I did forgot that the bolts were countersunk, and not caphead.

Just remembered, I had to remove the exhaust rear section to gain enough working space to remove the regulator bolts.

I wouldn't have thought that the threads would be gone unless the pipe bolts were cross threaded or were massively over tightened, I mean 100Nm or more. I found these a quite tricky to get in because of the bend in the pipe is so close to the end it wanted to pull the bolt back out of the regulator as I was screwing it in.

There is 2 allen cap head bolts on the side that run all the way through the regulator. Be careful not to round the allen heads off. When I changed mine the bolts were well and truly ceased in, and I had to weld Allen bits into the bolt heads to avoid rounding them off.

There is a sieve/filter in the neck of the brake fluid reservoir, was you able to remove this to Syphon out the fluid? Just interest to know if it is removable.

Here are the instructions that came with the kit.

Yes, as you can see the clips aren't installed in the photo. With great difficulty, I was lucky in that quite a lot of grease had escaped from the old boot, so there wasn't as much to contend with. The seam gets glued together in stages, after it is stretched over the driveshaft, so it's not as awkward as it would be if it had to be done all at once. But I could have cleaned the grease away first then re-packed the joint after the boots seam was stuck together. I couldn't believe the strength of the glue, there is a note in the instructions that I found comical, that said "do not wrap your hand around the boot/driveshaft, otherwise you may become permanently stuck to the vehicle" and it wasn't wrong at one point the glove that came with the kit became stuck to the boot. Ye the reason for starting this thread was because after searching around I couldn't find any reviews of the long term abilities of one of these boots. So far it's holding up, but that's only 4 days. I keep updating this thread.

Thanks, I see now how they fit. Could be quite handy for covering up the inevitable rust that forms around the arches. I'll have a play around in photo shop to see how they would look on (my) a red car.

@D.FYLAKTOS Do you have a picture of them fitted on your Felicia?

Where are these support to fit? Part 995090b, pretty sure there aftermarket. Can't quite work it out. Not sure if they fit Felicia.

Just fitted this to father's Octavia on monday. By using a split boot I was trying to save time by not having to remove the hub ect. ect. Didn't save too much time because of the limited space caused by components still being in situ. Also I did have an issue in that the joint end of the boot isn't a tight fit over the joint because of the universal nature of the boot, which the slack of which has to be taken up by the clip. But the glued joint seems to be holding up so far. Still probably saved £100 on dealer costs. If I can remember I'll keep updating on the long term reliability, in case others want to fit one.