R_U_AFA

Just bought some 2nd hand 13 inch Felicia steel wheels, and and have noticed a couple are 5 1/2J ET36 instead of the 4 1/2J ET38 ones I currently have, the tyres are same 165/70 13's I've used a wheel calculator and understand the difference in width/offset. I'm just wondering if the car will feel any different on them. I can't really see that there will be any difference in contact patch size, because the tyre width is the same.

I've got a 6v motorcycle battery that I need to charge, but my current battery charger is only for 12volt car batteries. Now if my memory serves me right I can adapt this charger by creating a lead between positive and negative with 2 resistors of of the same value, then taking power for charging from between the 2 resistors, which should be 6volts. Am I correct here? Or have I just made this all up.

https://www.megaparts.eu/en/product/1488668057 Used them before, with no issues. Also keep watching the item, because they regularly have up to 40% off offers, bit like autodoc do. Again no way of knowing if the gears inside are ok though.

Probably cost more to have original one repaired, than cost of a new unit. Also the motors have plastic gears inside, which can be easily sheared of their shafts, so yes you would have to be careful if buying a 2nd hand motor from a vehicle breakers.

@nta16 Posted at the same time as I replied I suppose easiest would be to pull the radio connecters block to see if noise goes.

It was because I've had mine randomly go into play mode, even though theres been no cassette in. And this issue wouldn't be stopped by removing fuses or relays. My only other guess would be that it's the stormtrooper on the dash😆

Don't suppose you have a tape deck radio fitted?

Well you can't get it into the tank now even if you want to.

It's been a couple of years since I've bought some Redex, and when I bought some I thought that the neck on the bottle looked shorter, but thinking that Redex knew what they were doing I didn't question it. Went to put it in the tank today and Redex all down the car's bodywork, the bottles neck no longer reaches the little flap in the fuel tank filler, which stops the Redex flowing in. Not sure what the idiots at Redex are thinking. Must admit car does seem to run better, but that's probably psychological.

I've finally managed to get a refund.

Obviously we can't see how bad the crash damage is (although I could see it being quite bad if it detached the starter) , but I don't think you're going to have a problem starting it after repairs. Reattach the starter, check for any loose fuel lines and wires, check engine rotates freely, then turn the key, It'll probably start first time, it's a felicia.

I've never come across an inertial sensor in the fuel pump wiring, so it would have to be integrated with another component, and there is only 3 of these it could be: 1. fuel pump relay (pretty sure this is just a standard relay, but never looked inside one), 2. fuel pump itself (never took one apart so could be possible), 3.ecu (again ECU doesn't control the pump, just the injector(s) so probably not) I am just referring to petrol injection models.

No such thing on a felicia.

Unbelievable, here's the email I received today. I think it would be an understatement to say that ML Performance are unreliable, can't be trusted, and are not to be used.

It's been a while since I did this, but if I understand correctly what you want, there's a bolt(s) near the power steering pump that will need to be loosened to allow the whole combined alternator/tensioner assembly to be pivoted away.

You said you used easystart, did you have someone constantly spraying whilst cranking, or was it a quick spray into the throttle body then crank.

I wouldn't have thought it is an immobilizer fault. Did you try using original hall sensor with new coil pack.

1 month later and still waiting for parts to arrive!

Yes, just mounts to the dash But I have just seen an element type that heats the coolant. I'm not looking to heat the car to some steamy 30°C heat and be wearing no clothes, just enough to bring the temp up a little, so I'm not freezing cold whilst sat there 5-7° would probably be enough on a freezing day. 6 hours was an extreme case, and any how even then i would be cycling it on off not constantly running it. Looking at a campervan forum 30mins would be good from a standard lead-acid battery.

Not 100% sure but; Aux heater 1250w Felicia Alternator 1000w Are you saying that with the engine running it could damage the alternator, or just that the auxiliary battery would be quickly drained and need long journeys to recharge? The auxiliary heater would only be needed for 5 mins with engine running until the cars engine coolant heating system comes up to temp. (If I've calculated properly 105watts needed) Although after doing some calculations (if correct) assuming a 60Ah battery I would only have 36mins of auxiliary heat anyhow (with engine switched off) As seen as I was sat in my car for 6 hours the other week that doesn't seem a lot. But that is what the VSR is for isn't it, so there still is power left in the cars main battery.

I don't suppose you could recommend one? I found these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315013660143 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134785535193 I was just worried about issues being caused with the cars current electric systems with the switched live active

No heater currently installed. I was thinking just a small 12v aftermarket heater.

So just mulling this idea about at the moment. After having to sit around in the car in that freezing weather we had a few weeks back, I was thinking that I could do with a heater that works when the engine is off. After doing a bit of research it doesn't look like it would be to hard to fit a second auxiliary battery with a voltage sensitive relay, and run the auxiliary electric heater from this second battery. (Obviously using this type of system stops the cars main battery from being drained) So is it as simple as it looks to install this type of system? In every topic I've looked at so far they all deal with this system being used with the engine off, but I would like the auxiliary heater to work when the engine is first started to quickly build up the cars temperature on a cold morning. Can this be done with this sort of dual battery system? I'm guessing that people who go camping/have a motorhome will have more experience with this type of system. The car I'm thinking of fitting it to is a 99 skoda Felicia.

Just placed order, I'll update when/if it arrives.

It turns out that it was a small blob of grease that had flicked up on to the servo body from a previously leaking CV joint boot. The position of it right at the mating point between the MC and servo made me jump to the conclusion of a leaky MC. I'm glad I double checked and hadn't ordered any parts. You can still see some evidence of the old leaking CV boot on the front subframe in the original photo, which I'm yet to clean up.