R_U_AFA

I would order from the UK, but nobody seems to have the parts I want or is breaking a felicia at the moment. As far as I can tell, i think that that megaparts is basically the motorhog of bulgaria? I mean for new parts EU, I could use skoda-parts cz, i've been happy with their service before, even tho their parts can be a bit naf.

Not sure if felicia 1.3mpi alternator has a sprag clutch, I'll have to have an investigate.

Has anyone bought parts from megaparts.eu? https://www.megaparts.eu/ If you have what was your experience? Just trying to work out if it's a legitimate website to order from.

I'll give that a go, but mine being right hand drive car, the clutch arm / cable is a little diffrent, but I suppose the principle will be the same. I changed water pump 3 months ago, so shouldn't be that Tensioner roller I replaced 3-4 years back The tensioner didn't seem too stiff when I changed pump, nor did the belt seem too tight Alternator could be suspect, because I've never done any work on it, and it does look original Removing the belt is a bit of a faf because on the 1.3mpi there is only around 6-7mm of space between the belt and chasis leg, but doing this it would eliminate a few components from the list of suspects .

So today's test was; when coasting downhill, in neutral, clutch released, and engine off, no noise at at all. Now to answer some questions, Yes, for the whining noise, but remember that this noise only happens under load No for the grinding noise. Yes, grinding noise only, and it is fainter at idle Yes, this describes the grinding noise, except it's mor like "KAR-kar-kar"-"KAR-kar-kar", capital letters emphising that it is louder at some points before repeating again Tryed this with screwdriver stethoscope around verious points on engine/ancillary components/gearbox, only problem is I don't have any point of reference to what noisey/rumbling failing bearings would sound like. I will admit though that the alternator is noisier than other components, but it does not have the rythmic noise as described above, it's just rumbles with louder than other components. (I guess this is a possability for the grinding noise)

C/V boots are ok, and there is no clicking noise when reversing on full lock, also there doesn't seem to be any rotational free play in driveshaft / c/v joints It seems to be engine/trasmission related, because as a test today, when going downhill under engine braking both noises were apparant, then I disengaged clutch (i.e pressed the pedel), whine totally disappears, grinding becomes very faint, then I moved gearstick to neutral, released clutch pedel and coasted downhill, again whine still totally gone, grinding very faint(Both times I still had engine running)

Inner, Outer, or both? Do you mean wear in the c/v shaft splines?

I'll try to be a detailed as possiable, Over the last couple of months my felicia has developed a whining noise, and a grinding noise, at the same time. The whine sounds i bit like the whine you would get from a straight cut gear gearbox, and the grinding sounds like the noise you would get from first application of brakes on rusty brake discs. I don't know if both sounds are assosiated or or from 2 seperate issues just coinciding together. The whine only happens when the car is moving, in gear, and with clutch engaged, it becomes more pronounced when under load e.g. when using engine braking in 2nd or 3rd gear going down a steep hill, or whilst climing a steep hill in any gear, if the clutch is depressed i.e disengaged whilst under the above situations it goes away. The grinding noise can be slightly heard all the time, but is more pronounced the faster I drive in any gear, under any engine load. Also mabey related to this issue, sometimes it can be difficult to downshift into 1st or 2nd gear when engine is cold and still moving, and sometimes the car jumps when reverse is selected. The above information leads me to think that the clutch is on it's way out, especially as the age/mileage of the clutch is unknown, but there is no clutch slip at all for example, the car stalls if I attempt to pull away in 3rd or 4th, and engine revs don't rise when 5th gear engaged up a very steep hill. I'm thinking other possibilities may be, other clutch parts worn i.e pressure plate/ pressure plate springs or cutch release bearing OR Gearbox/Differentional issues, like a worn 1st/2nd syncro unit, input or output shaft bearings, or diff bearings. Any one have any theories, or tests I could do to narrow down the possibilities? Things I have already checked are: Gear oil correct level No oil in clutch bellhousing Clutch bite point, it's pretty much still in the same position as when I got the car. No play in driveshafts / C/V joints

Avoid the ATE ones, I got a pair that didn't quite fit. They were about 1mm too big, and fouled again the caliper carrier.

Your car is a favorit is it not, which means that the ibiza belt buckle would not fit, because early felicia's and favorit's used a diffrent seatbelt latching design / style (I seem to remember) Your best chance will probably be a generic china belt buckle with warning wire connector Also you will have to start from the begining with the wiring connector to see if the favorit has a unused connector for the seatbelt warning light

Exact same problem I had, couldn't get the bottom bush seperatly, so had to buy a new pair of dampers Your spring compressors look a similar size to the the type I used, and then found that I didn't need. As you unwind the top nut, it naturally relieves the spring tension, and you get to a point where all the tension is released before the nut is fully off(remember that the nut can allways be re-tightened as long as it remains on the threaded portion)I'll also point out at this point that it's easier to uncrack the tension off the the top nut, with the rear suspension unit still in the car with the weight on the wheels. You could also try, when you have compressed the spring keep the compression in the center of spring by using some exhaust/axle u clamps or something similer, then release, and reset the compressors, and then re-compress the spring, just be very carefull if you try this! I fact forget that, as seen as you have 3 compressors, you can compress the spring with 2 then start to use the 3rd one once you've reached the limit of travel in the first 2, again be carefull if attempting this!

I wouldn't say that this is 100% correct, but I would think that the only differance between factory original 115035004 and a 115035001 parts would be the bounce and rebound rates, mabey skoda decided to change them to give a sportier or smoother ride, depending on the way the settings changed. The change probabally wouldn't be noticable during normal driving. I'd have a go at fitting the spring to your new damper and see how it looks. When I changed mine I didn't need a spring compresser, but my springs may have sagged a little over time Failing that you could keep going with your old set, they don't look as if they are leaking and with a quick spray of black paint would easily pass an MOT test. And if you don't like the thought of reusing old ones, I'm sure a set of dampers from any felicia car or estate will fit (there are some on ebay for £30, just don't get the sachs ones again because they are listed on there aswell)

So, I've been able to retro fit a seatbelt buckle that activates the warning light light on the dashboard. The wiring to the dash may be allready fitted to your car depending on year, and optional equiptiment. The thing will be to see if you can find the connector in the 2nd picture. It's a case of running 2 wires from this connector under the glovebox (the white connector with 1green wire, 1brown wire) to the new buckle and the light on the dash should illuminate when the seatbelt is uncliped. The hardest bit will be finding a seatbelt buckel with warning connector that fits (I used one from a seat ibiza, but had to modify it to fit) I will say that this might not be the case for all models, and that my car is a Mk2 facelift felicia with central locking, and the 1.3mpi engine. And I have since found that it is kind of pointless also, because I allready drive everywhere with my seatbelt on, but It's a nice little function to have on the dash.

1995 Skoda Favorit-Form_-Pickup Czech Republic market Rear axle Suspension rear.htm So etka does say that pre 94 there are different springs and dampers set part 115035001 for damper and part for 115350300 spring insted of, 115035004 damper and 6U6511115A spring I don't know if the attachment will work or help

Just had a quick look and the cup is available seperatly Part 115395210, but again it's from skoda-parts

I don't believe this is a model year issue, because like papez, I think that the dimensions should be the same across all favorits/felicias (bar pickup versions) I think it is a case of aftermarket parts that just don't quite fit Have you tryed fitting the spring to the new damper yet? Also, I don't know if it's just me but in the 2nd picture it looks as if the distance from the spring seat to the bottom bushing hole center is longer on the new one

I agree with J.R. For this job a torque wrench isn't essential, especially as seen as all the screws/bolts will be into or bearing against plastic housings, so high torque figures would just end up damaging the plastic. I would start by testing, and/or mabey replacing the thermostat numbered 15 because I'm pretty sure that this is the one that controls the flow of coolent to the radiator. It's a very easy job to do, half drain the coolant, move some hoses and pipes to gain access, undo a few trx-star screws, and you've gained access to the thermostat.

I would say it depends, do you feel confident working on the car yourself, or would you be paying a mechanic to do it for you?

I've only done this on a felicia but I seem to remember that the lip of the steped portion sits level with the top of the knuckle hole, but this isn't possable with yours because the tang on the location tab is stopping it from dropping any further into the hole, again mabey suggesting an incorrect part. Whereabouts does the damper end in relation to the underside of the knuckle, it should be pretty much level with the bottom of the knuckle hole + or - a few mm. I know it's not ideal but you could try to take up the tolerance up with some steel shim sheet material cut to size, or as J.R. says try find a coller/sleeve to fit.

Just realised that the thermostat number 15 in the diagram is acessable with out removing the waterpump, so like J.R. says if might be worth testing this one first, this would make it a much cheaper/quicker fix (seem to remember that there are a few topics on here featuring this as failing)

I agree it does sound like a thermostat issue, you could try covering up the radiator with a bit of cardboard before setting off with a cold engine, if the engine comes up to temperatue rapidly then it's almost certainly a thermostat, just don't drive for too far/long with no airflow througt the radiator. When our pump developed a leak I seem to remember that dealer quoted £450 to replace pump and the pump alone was £180 of that. Aftermarket pumps and thermostats are avaliable cheaper, we bought an FAI one for around £75 and fitted it ourselves, but that was only part 4 from the above diagram, around 2 hours work, probably came to around £120 with new pump, coolant, belt and clips. You could just replace the thermostat(s) but the waterpump has to come off to replace them anyway, and waterpump reliabilty not a VAG group strong point.

Worked it out now, I had no continuity on the earth between the tow bar bracket electric socket and the rear light cluster Everything works fine now, although the trailer tail or brake lights do dim a little when operated in unison with the indicators If I get time I'll post some wiring diagrams to help anyone in future

Just fitted these: They're the ones from skoda-parts, and don't take too much fitting, just have to remove the old plastic sill end covers and refit these. Should fit other versions of the felicia aswell, van, combi, and pick-up. Not a 100% if they would fit a favorit. I must admit that they don't stop the dirt, just make the dirt/spray more diffuse up the side of the car. Also they scrape on speed bumps if your heavily laden.

Did you get round to fitting the tow bar with electrics, I'm struggling a bit with mine, just wanted to compare notes. I've wired it stright into the rear loom at the left light cluster and seem to be getting some odd results.

Grease the bearing seat under the bearing, grease its internal hole betweeen the seat and bearing, then grease on top of the the bearing between it and the lower bush seat. Also you could gently split the bearing and re-grease it internally(be carefull not to loose the ballbearings though), I have found that new ones sometimes come with not enough internal lubrication. With regards the torque on the top nut, I've always just done it up as tight as possable by hand like in R_Blue's 2nd picture, and never had any problems (you should be reaching between 25-35 NM this way so not that far short of 40Nm anyway)