R_U_AFA

No actual valve that can be actuated. But - It does have a pvc system with a oil catch can on the back of the engine, as seen as you have recently had the engine out, oil could have got into the system if it was laid on its side, and has now clogged it up.

In my opinion they do not feel any different, but I am just driving casually around town, and not in a sports fashion.

This has eventually happened because of the mudflaps constantly scraping across speed humps :-( And on the drivers side the whole protruding area has split away due to wind resistance at motorway speeds.

So no they don't come with the rubber spacer. I eventually got these from wg performance, (they're the same spec as the hel ones), and added the donut myself. Here they are fitted. Well the fronts I haven't done the rears yet. I will say I can't feel any difference in braking feeling or performance, but as I originally said this wasn't my main concern.

Yep, did this job myself a couple of months back, and had to give the inner CV joint some serious Welly with a hammer to get it to engage with the differential gear.

It's very possible, the earth issue mentioned before was due to heavy corrosion on the earth pin in the tow bar 7 pin connector. I don't think the hatchback has that connector, from what I remember the loom runs straight to the light clusters, unless I have not seen it.

It's covered in the Haynes manual, according to them the torque is 60Nm + a 90 degree turn (for the 1.6 engine). They also recommend new bolts and, some thread lock on the bolts. Seems a bit of overkill to me, I wonder what Skoda recommend, someone will probably post an extract from their official workshop page.

I don't know which way to bend it, to straighten it back out. Like I say I can't visually see where it has bent. I've got some lagging, so if it comes to the worst and I can't stop the vibrations, i'll stick some on.

So, just run my mower over a cast iron drain pipe, and now it is vibrating like crazy. It's obviously bent the blade, but i've had a good look at it and can't really see any damage to it. Just wondering if anyone has any tips on this with out having to take it to a mower specialist.

Forgot to mention I did change the indicator relay in the fuse box, to the earlier mentioned realy to allow the light in the dashboard to work.

This is the way I have wired in the tow bar electrics (7-pin) like I say it's straight into the rear loom no extra relays. Although the fog light wiring goes nowhere on the trailer as seen as it has no corresponding light. Those are the connector blocks for the rear light units on the car (post facelift) but I think it's the same on early models. There also is a handy rubber body plug that goes into the boot under the light cluster which saves drilling through the steel boot floor, to feed the wire through.

I've not done this job myself before, but sometimes there will be alignment marks on the pump and tank that have to face each other. Or is it possible that there a seal that is getting traped.

When I did mine all I needed to do was separate the two rear exhaust sections, and remove the rubber hose that connects the fuel tank to filler neck. Must admit it does make fitting the cross body pipe a bit fiddly, and limits working space around the brake compensator.

Felicia has a diagonally split braking circuit, so on the master cylinder whichever pipe goes to the front right, the pipe opposite it should go to the rear left, and vice versa. This is supposedly so that braking is more even and stable in a situation where one brake line or component fails.

I know some people on here won't agree with me, but plenty of copper grease (or similar) on reassembly will make future dismantling a lot easier.

Here is the issue with EPC https://www.eurocarparts.com/driveshaft#fitment-detail , according to them it is the same driveshaft for both sides, which is incorrect, this is what leads me to question their fitment accuracy.

My gear selector shaft seal has started to leak again. So that's about 40,000 miles / 8 years that it has lasted, and that is with the protective gaiter. Also this might be a bit late for wesacosa, but a pair of waterpump / alligator pliers can help getting the pin in.

I looked and wasn't sure if the ones they said fitted actually did, you know what eurocarparts are like for fitment accuracy. Depending on the day and brand they seem to range in price from £75 to £145. There is one one eBay but again I'm not sure about fitment.

So 2nd order has turned up ok, and was well packaged again. I can't fault them, apart from if you pay by PayPal they don't seem to be able to distinguish which payment is yours, so I have had to sent evidence of payment. And if you want an order over 30kg it will have to be split up otherwise postage costs £170, instead of £25. But otherwise I would give them a 9 out of 10.

In the end I bought an aftermarket one from autodoc, the abakus branded one. It seems to be working ok, albeit it seaming like it may be letting a little coolant past when closed resulting in a slightly longer warm up time. But at least it is operating at the correct temperature.

So the grinding noise was the water pump, in fact the pumps shaft had that much lateral movement it was allowing the impeller to foul against the engine block. So wouldn't recommend a vika water pump from my experience with this incedent, but it is possible that it was just a one off manufacturing defect restricted to this part. The replacement pump is a mastersport from autodoc.

So I took the plunge and ordered some parts from them, and they turned up ok and well packaged. I've just ordered again and I'll post again with the result, but I can't foresee any issues.

Yes, was able to get the indicator new, but the only driveshafts I can find are a bit pricey, hence why I am looking for a 2nd hand one.

I'm looking for a right, drivers side driveshaft with CV joints, also a drivers side front indicator. Is anyone breaking a Felicia or favorit, or have these spares stashed away. I know there used to be someone on eBay, in Lancashire with lots of spares, but the listing seems to have disappeared, or I can't find it now.

So had another listen around at idle with stethoscope, and it would seem that the water pump is quite grumbly and loud. Now as mentioned previously I have only changed this a few months ago, so quite dissapointed if this part has started to fail, it was a vika one from skoda-parts, so shouldn't be failing this soon. This wouldn't explain the whining noise which i'm pretty sure is something related to the gears/gearbox.