pdrisc

Oops need to update that. I replaced the 58 with a 67 L&K 2 weeks ago. Thanks for that.

Evening My superb rear window washer is not spraying. The wiper is working but there is no fluid coming out. Its been in my hands for less than 2 weeks so I will contact Skoda in Swansea to resolve it but just in case its not something stupid i thought i would start here. Anything to look out for?

Evening I picked up an L&K 67 reg car on Friday to replace my mk2 car. I was looking through the car documents and there seem to be no log book for service. When I queried this at the dealer he explained that its now logged on line. I bought it from a skoda dealership. I presume this is to tie you into the dealers for service. What do others do to record their services on their cars?

Can't add details like a name or a number but as mine has literally fallen apart i can tell you that the purpose of it is to reduce rattling. The 2 part hard plastic shrouds rattle like some dried peas in a plastic bottle. Its such a specific part you are probably only going to be able to get it from a dealer. However i am replacing my car with a Superb 3 on Friday so I am not bothered about it from then.

i have had this problem. The connections on the battery posts had loosened. Solved the problem that i was having. How old is the battery? normally only last between 3 and 5 years.

I have a similar issue with my car. Its a 58 plate car but in a separate thread someone has commented that they think it may be a body control module issue. My issue is the rear lights on the drivers side and the number plate lights remain on. For the last 2 mornings the car has been flat so i have had to take a boost from another car. I have used a simple code reader which says there is an earth fault but i have arranged to go to a friendly garage and get them to read it and hopefully reset it on Friday. i am going to be replacing it soon so just need it to get over the garage forecourt. Changing to an L&K superb 3. (more stuff to go wrong?)

Thanks. Looking at a video on you tube its buried under the dash. Seems the most logical reason for the fault though.

In the latest installation of "you need to get rid of the car" my offside tail light is not switching off. Lights are in the off position and the the indicator is centralised. Also the front side light is not on. Last week the AFS function on the headlights started faulting with what i presume is a faulty sensor. But any idea on why the lights would remain on in one light cluster of the car? Has anyone seen this before? I have started looking to replace it as the car has over 160,000 miles on the clock.

I seem to remember that on Skodas or VWs its a 2 part cable to connect between the catch and the lever. I certainly had to replace the cable on a VW passat before and also had to clean and regrease the catch on my 2008 superb. i may even have had to replace it before with a part from ebay. As superbdreams said use some easing fluid and relubricate the mechanism and the cable sleeves.

Did you ever get in contact with Rustynuts? He may have repaired units for sale.

I had a problem with my bi xenon lights where the ballast blew on it. They are expensive on their own. if yours is still okay it might be worth getting a new unit from the dealer as they come with a ballast and keep the ballast in the tool box in case it goes again. I looked at an after market headlight because mine had a crack in it which caused the ballast to go and the difference in price between a main dealer and an aftermarket unit was not enough to avoid the main dealer. in the end i sucked it up and just changed the ballast because my car is a 58 plate and i will probably be changing it in the coming months if we ever have to back to the office!!

best way to find out is to park close to a wall, turn the lights on and experiment. Ideally a wall with bricks so you can check that they are level. I had a problem with my skoda and took it to a garage i use that that only does MOTs. They allowed me to check it on their headlight checker gadget. My lights are bi xenon and i should probably have put it into maintenance mode but i havent had any issues.

With 160k miles on the clock the time has come to think about getting a replacement. Question is whether its worth trading in or selling on. Car is an Elegance spec car with all the usual bells and whistles but I have been told there is a leak with oil around the turbo (smell of burning oil occasionally) and a couple of other little niggles. Hopefully will be going back to the office eventually so need a comfortable car for the 100m round trip a couple of days a week. Will probably be buying from a Skoda dealer but what is people's experience of trading in their car? Is it worth going through the hassle of tarting the car up to sell privately or just take the hit on a trade in. Will be going for an updated model of the same car - tall family and i don't like knees in my back! Any thoughts from anyone?

It still sounds like a building battery issue. most batteries only have a life of 4-5 years but certainly with mine it required longer turning time to get it to fire up. I don't think you need to change it yet but just check the model of battery fitted and how long the battery life was warrantied for. Plenty of threads on here describing how the cars needed more time to turn over before it caught. Big cold engines and lots of power demands on the battery with all the toys that come with the cars now.

Check the battery first. Battery is usually the main problem with starting it. The cold can sap the power. i had to replace my battery back in December. If you have a battery checker use that and see whether there is an issue with it. Symptoms start with the engine requiring longer to fire when turning over when its cold.

Happened to me too. Its a fuse problem. Swap out the effected one as suggested by Wino above. Its a very simple fix.

I had this problem many years ago when i fiddled with the LHD option for driving on the continent. I had to take mine to a dealer to recode it and reset it. Occasionally it trips and i get a warning because about the AFS function and it has defaulted to the "home" position but it usually resets. However my problem affected both headights. Its sounds like your fault could be a motor issue. Surprised the cost was that high though for a new one. I looked into replacing mine a few years ago when i had a problem with the ballast which stemmed from a damaged headlight unit. Its only a 58 plate car though. The cost for a main dealer headlight was about £500 and included the ballast that is about £150 on its own.

Same battery from battery megastore is £87.50 https://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/yuasa-ybx5096-silver-high-performance-car-battery-type-096/

The battery should have a manufacturing date on it but you may need to pull it out to look at it. I have read in the past that older cars were under powered in terms of batteries especially with all the goodies on them. I would look to replace the battery with the largest Ah you can get. I bought a 74Ah battery for my elegance model but you could go up to 80Ah.

how old is the battery in the car? what you described with the charger is the same scenario i had. With a booster or another car it started straightaway but as soon as the cold seeped in the battery lost charge. I had a simple battery tester confirm that the battery was knackered. If your battery has been in there for 4 years then you're looking at replacing it or relying on the charger all the time.

I have an older model from 2009 and it doesn't have stop/start. Its the 2L diesel engine. Back in November when the first cold started my battery failed. This has happened before and always in winter. I just replaced it with new battery myself. It only required me to have the battery disconnected for a few minutes and there was no problem with the Columbus unit or anything else. A couple of the sensors tripped but they reset once i drove the vehicle about 1/2 a mile. The battery i replaced was a 4yr battery and it lasted just under 5 years. They don't last as long as you think and stop start driving will play havoc with the cells. If the battery has not been changed in over 5 years then bite the bullet and get a new one. Charging it only works until you have access to a charger or another car. I had to be rescued a couple of times until i got the battery switched out. I also bought a battery online rather than going to a dealer or one of the main auto parts suppliers. Much cheaper. If your not comfortable changing it yourself go to Halfords and they will do it as you wait.

going to a dealer they will only use a local bodywork company and charge you a premium. They won't do the work themselves. See if you can find out who they use and seek them out. Otherwise talk to locals about who they use.

It sounds like it. you need to look at the loom where it exits the door frame and passes through the rubber hose. That will tell you whether or not the wiring is split. That where mine was split. Not an easy job that bit. There are loads of videos on line to assist this. But you probably know that anyway. Good luck.

Don't know why you needed that code. I swapped mine on Monday with minimum time off power and the system didn't need any code at all. suspect there is a hold up battery in the radio to maintain a short period without power supply.

Not an expert on this as my car is an 58 plate and doesnt have S/S but sounds like a battery issue. I know these Stop/Start systems shut down if the battery is low in charge and if you have the original battery it may be due a replacement. I just had to change my battery as it has been struggling to start with this colder and i was stranded a couple of times because there had been too much of draw on it with a short journey. The battery was replaced 4 years ago for the same issue when starting sometimes. See if you can get the battery tested somehow. One thing i can tell you is that batteries are a lot cheaper on line than going through GSM, Europarts and Halfords.