logiclee

Not in Borg Warners opinion. Moving torque rearwards before slip has occurred using input from sensors and lines of code is classed as pre-emptive. It's not reacting to slipping wheel when traction is already lost. That's no different really to the many different modes in more off road biased 4x4's where torque is distributed depending on mode selected and input from sensors prior to wheel slip. As an Electrical Engineer working daily with code Pre-emptive systems are common place whether you agree with the terminology or not. Definition In this case the software Prevents "Forestall" Slip by taking advance action before slip occurs.

Correct. If you are in first and ask for 85% torque with your right foot chances are the Haldex ECU will give you some rear axle assistance before the engine can give you what you've asked for. But some steering lock on a wet low grip road, low grip tyres with 25% torque demand and it may well be reacting to that slip. And even with a 50/50 split of torque front / rear torque you may still get some spin on that inside front that the traction control has to try and brake. We are not talking 3 locked differentials here. On the rollers. Gen 5 vs Torsen Quattro

Gen 1, 2 and 3 were reactive. Gen 4 and 5 are pre-emptive and work with the cars stability systems to pre-empt a loss of traction and move torque rearwards before slip occurs. This can be a high torque demand from launch or launch control activated, input from steering angle, yaw angle sensors and engine torque demand. The parameters are even changed if a trailer is attached as long as it's correctly coded. The post from Muddyboots assumes that haldex is either fully engaged or not engaged. This is not the case. For Gen 4 and Gen 5 the ECU can adjust the pressure on the wet clutch plates which allows slip. This adjusts how much torque is sent to the rear axle and also allows speed differential between the front and rear axle which avoids windup. For the reactive part of the system Gen 4 and Gen 5 can send 50% of the torque to the rear wheels within 1/8th of a revolution of slip on the front wheels. Have a look at this A3 the rear is squatting on launch before the front looses traction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbmenMq7jWU

I'd rather pay for a recommended alignment specialist to carry out the works and insist on a before and after printout of the geometry. Incorrect alignment can destroy how the car drives as well as ruin tyres and stress components.

If you follow tyre reviews on youtube or his website he actually runs Premium Summers in summer and All Seasons in winter. His thoughts are that is the "Optimal" setup for 95% of the UK. Personally I did the Summer and Winter swap for around 15 years but now find premium All Seasons have reached the level of performance that I'm happy to run with all year. But I understand what dale is doing.

Detailed across three pages of the manual. Standard on higher spec 4x4's. Optional on lower specs.

I have Cross Climate on our Octavia, Cross Climate+ on our Berlingo Van and Cross Climate 2 on the Yeti. The one area where I thought the Cross Climate and Cross Climate+ was just average was on snow and Ice. So much so I went with Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons on our other Octavia. (I live near to and drive through the Peak District. I was all set to buy another set of Goodyear's until I saw this years reviews and the Snow performance on the CC2's has been drastically improved, now beating the Vector 4 Season Gen3's and even the premium winter tyre on test for snow traction. Time will tell, I'll find out in the next few weeks.

I paid £460 with £50 cashback offer from Michelin from my local indy. 225/50x17 98V

Cross Climate 2's seem to be winning most of the "All season" tests. Fitted a set a few weeks ago.

There was only one generation of Yeti. Facelift was never a Mk2

Quite possible, I know on adblue vehicles if you had Factory towbar you had to have spare wheel.

1100kg on a 1.2TSi manual would be OK in my opinion. I probably wouldn't on a DSG.

Another sad story and common across all VAG forums. Another diff more than likely killed by inexperience or incompetence.

Well I know it's not bodily fluids. It wasn't pink or greasy, and crystal clear (Rubber mats) One dab on the tongue of antifreeze won't kill you but it doesn't taste very nice. I had one of the first MQB Octavia's and that did dump coolant in the passenger footwell from a cracked heater matrix pipe. That was easily detectable with a finger rub and taste test. As the Fabia is still under warranty and the condensate drain involves several different fittings and a valve it looks like a trip to the dealers. We've had 14 Skoda's and the last 4 have ended up with soggy carpets.

So in the light of day. Scuttle drains are all clear, You can pull off the rubber and lift the plastic up high enough to get your hands in without removing the wipers. Time to go for a run with and without aircon to check if the aircon drains are at fault. The water coming in is clear and tasteless and the coolant level is fine so I doubt it's from the heater matrix.

Plan C I have one of these at work. https://www.dewalt.co.uk/products/dct410d1-gb--12v-xr-inspection-camera-1-x-2ah

Yep that could be plan B thanks.

I've had a quick look with a torch tonight and you can clearly see where the fan is and it drops straight down into the pollen filter which was clogged with leaves and water on the intake side so I'm sure it's the scuttle drains. I'll have a play tomorrow when it's light. Yes the wipers will have to come off but there maybe enough clearance for a clean out without full removal, I'll have a look. The car came with full dealer history bought at 3 years old but this has never had a pollen filter change. Ordered one to be delivered tomorrow. This completes the trio. Our Octavia had the well documented boot leak which is now resolved by modifying the boot rubber. Our Yeti had the sunroof leak and that required a new cassette at a cost of £2400, luckily picked up by the dealer And now the Fabia has a wet footwell.

Thanks for the advice, do you know where the aircon drain is?

Just noticed water dripping from pollen filter housing. Removed pollen filter and it's wet and also leaves and debris in housing. So It looks like I'll have some blocked drains. Anyone have any tips on how to remove the scuttle plate and where the drains are?

I find pretty much the same with Primacy 3's on my Yeti, I live near the peak district and drive through it most weeks. Badly surfaced roads with wet/cold conditions mostly, mud, leaves etc. The Michelin's feel too hard, noisy, skippy, easy to break traction and downright dangerous once the temps drop below 7 degrees and we are getting to that now. So even though they are only half worn they've been removed and a set of Crossclimate 2's fitted. Feel's much better now.

2.5bar is too crashy for me. 2.2 is what I go with unless loaded and towing.

For the 1.0TSi DSG SEL with the few options I want that comes to £23230. That's similar to what I paid for a new VW Passat 2.0TDi DSG Highline with a few options and full leather back in 2011. That's inflation for you.

When you get the new windscreen in, stick a dashcam to it.

I'd say I'm sensitive. Other than the Octavia with error messages probably all the others would just be driven by non sensitive drivers or older second hand models. As these were all cars under warranty there's no way I'm putting up with slip and judder. Our 4 DQ250's and the DL501 we had in an Audi have been faultless and covered many more miles than the DQ200's we've owned. Our Fabia 1.0TSi will be out of warranty next year, so far it's been faultless but I'm wary of owning a DQ200 out of warranty. Also our DQ200 vehicles are very lightly treated and cover low miles. Our wet clutch cars have a much harder life carrying more passengers and luggage and towing a 1460kg caravan.