logiclee

I still don't get why you would go to that much time, effort and expense to try and negate the issues with bypass relays when dedicated looms are relatively cheap. Around the price of a couple of tanks of fuel. For that you get proven reliability. The Yeti doing bulb failure monitoring and foglight switching. Correct operation of parking sensors. And most importantly antisnake adaption of the cars stability control

My Yeti has dedicated electrics as it has a factory bar but our Octavia has a towbar with bypass relay. The Octavia was fine for a year or so but the relay failed and shorted and caused all sorts of issues. I've still got to sort this out, it's all disconnected at the moment.

This /\ . Rip out the bypass and all the current towbar wiring. Fit dedicated wiring and have it programmed. You will then benefit from the Yeti dong the trailer bulb monitoring the parking sensors and lights will work correctly and the stability control will enable "Trailer Stability Assist" when you have a trailer attached

You need a dedicated towbar electrics wiring loom and have it correctly coded into the Yeti's systems. Bypass relays and scotchlocks always cause problems eventually on modern cars. Get the electrics done properly.

Although I am of an age where I did fit Cibies to my Escorts and Chevette's and can confirm how awesome they are I can also say some of the newer LED light bars just on another planet. But they vary massively in performance. Id also add the I've had Xenon's and LED lights in other cars but my current FL Yeti with Bi-Xenon's together with Halogen high beams (H7 Osram Nightbreaker) have the best high beam range of any car I've had.

Are the Xenons doing the up and down and left and right dance on startup? Are they the same level in "On" and in "Auto"? If there's an issue with the system they default to a low leave.

Get dedicated electrics. You will get the Yeti monitoring the bulb failure and switching the parking sensors and fog light. You also get Trailer stability system on the Yeti with dedicated electrics. I've got dedicated electrics on the Yeti but a bypass relay on our Octavia. The relay has failed twice on the Octavia and currently the indicators are not working on the trailer. Also most fitters use scotchlocks with bypass relays and they can damage your cars wiring.

I don't find it any harder than our Octavia's hatch to pull down although you do struggle with the Yeti's hatch using one hand.

There are obviously mechanical differences between engine sizes and 2wd and 4wd when comparing anything in the Yeti range But Monte Carlo is purely a trim level so a 2.0TDi 4x4 will be Mechanically the same whether it's a monty or SE or SE-L etc. What changes is the amount of equipment and the trim etc.

110 to 115 is pretty normal.

Autohold in Skoda's is an automatic foot on the brake pedal. Brake pressure is kept applied to all four brakes. The brake lights stay on. Gearbox stays in D. VAG only fit it on models with Electric Parking Brake as the EPB is used as a failsafe if autohold is disengaged due to one of it's safety parameters (Time, unbuckle seat belt, open drivers door, engine off etc) Only downside is if the brakes are very hot it can increase front brake disc issues if you come to a stop with hot brakes and the front brakes remain clamped on. (Not all VW's keep the brake lights on, my Passat didn't)

99% of the time it will be fine in Drive. If you feel on a hill or overtaking you need a lower gear just drop into sport or manual,

Yes the Yeti was available as a 1.2TSi 110PS Monte Carlo and it will have the 7 Speed, dry clutch DSG DQ200. Check there no clutch judder from start and the changes should be quick and crisp with no clutch slip. They are the two main issues this box sufferes with.

We ran a 1.2TSi Yeti and 1.2TSi Octavia at the same time. The Octavia averaged 10mpg more than the Yeti over our ownership. We still have the 1.2TSi Octavia but now have a 2.0TDi Yeti.

Well, just noticed I have four Michelin Primacy 3's. Two new and two nearly new. All are 225/50x17 and all are 94 load rated. They all look identicle. Three have a W speed rating and one has a Y rating.

Our old 1.6TDi 105PS Octavia came with Y Rated tyres for 186mph.

https://www.mytyres.co.uk/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&cart_id=pqErY6lXgPJCuDbS.110.792282139&Cookie=sea_rd_uk_Froogle_Shopping&sowigan=GAN&Breite=225&Quer=50&Felge=17&kategorie=6&Marke=Goodyear&Herst=Goodyear&m_s=3&rsmFahrzeugart=ALL&Label=C-B-70-2&details=Ordern&typ=R-423063

I run Cross Climates on our Octavia and have run Goodyear Vector 4 Season Gen2's in the past. The Cross Climates are nearly a Summer Tyre which wont leave you stuck in the snow, perfect for the Octavia. The Goodyear's are not far behind for summer performance but are a lot better in winter especially on compact snow and ice. And are better on mud and wet grass. For me the Goodyears are the better choice for a 4x4 Yeti that does some grass/mud/snow work and they have the bonus of being cheaper. I have brand new Primacy 3's on my Yeti but still thinking of swapping them for the Goodyear Vectors, Gen 2's or the new Gen 3's

If I could have bought a TSi with DQ250 DSG I would have gone for that.

As I tow a caravan with Alko stabiliser and a 8x6 box trailer with standard hitch I have a constant battle applying grease then trying to clean it off. I used to use brake cleaner but now use a solvent degreaser from work which is excellent.

Collected Yeti No3 today. Others were petrol 2wd SE's and this is a diesel 4x4 L&K so a bit different. All good so far apart from I missed a small ding which will need to be done and the main Skoda dealer missed a dangerously damaged tyre!

Noisy suspension also affects other MQB Skoda cars, not sure why. The Mk2 Octy and Yeti didn't do it but the Mk3 Octy and Karoq do. A backward step.

No, all 225/50x17

OK, The noseweight limit is slightly higher on the 4x4, slightly stiffer springs perhaps?

There seems to be a much larger wheel arch gap on the 2.0TDi 4x4 compared to the 1.2TSi 2wd. Does the 4x4 have more travel?