Just had the car remapped to Revo Stage 1 but still have the standard TIP, is it worthwhile changing the pipe at this stage or would this really be worthwhile if going to stage 2?

Car seems to drive fine and seems to be OK with the additional boost, just wondering if this is something that others have done?

I did it with the Forge TIP, didn't much like it and removed it. You do get to hear the turbo spooling more but there are no power gains to be had and I always worried that it may come off the turbo. Indeed Rob Clubley has had this happen to his at least once.

Pain in the R's to fit too.

Ian

I did it with the Forge TIP, didn't much like it and removed it. You do get to hear the turbo spooling more but there are no power gains to be had and I always worried that it may come off the turbo. Indeed Rob Clubley has had this happen to his at least once.

Pain in the R's to fit too.

Ian

Twice - but my APR TIP wasn't made properly at the turbo end - hole too small!!

It's okay now that the garage has re-cored the end and I've extended the other end to stop it getting pulled off the turbo:

Just had the car remapped to Revo Stage 1 but still have the standard TIP, is it worthwhile changing the pipe at this stage or would this really be worthwhile if going to stage 2?

Car seems to drive fine and seems to be OK with the additional boost, just wondering if this is something that others have done?

Personally I'd save my money for a performance air filter for the air box, or a decent free flowing exhaust. Replacing hoses is good for maintenance, but it's a bit desperate if your after more power.

Silicone hoses look like more trouble than they are worth. Maybe look at the Neuspeed TIP (proper cast aluminium replacement pipe for the standard aluminium TIP). It bolts on, like the standard one, but is less restrictive. Still, probably naff all gains in it!

Silicone hoses look like more trouble than they are worth. Maybe look at the Neuspeed TIP (proper cast aluminium replacement pipe for the standard aluminium TIP). It bolts on, like the standard one, but is less restrictive. Still, probably naff all gains in it!

I had the ABD tip on mine for this reason (And the fact that it was cheap second hand )

I did it with the Forge TIP, didn't much like it and removed it. You do get to hear the turbo spooling more but there are no power gains to be had and I always worried that it may come off the turbo. Indeed Rob Clubley has had this happen to his at least once.

Pain in the R's to fit too.

Ian

and what happened to the aforementioned Forge TIP? sold on Ebay or on a shelf in the garage?

and what happened to the aforementioned Forge TIP? sold on Ebay or on a shelf in the garage?

Went on Ebay a long time ago, funnily enough I am selling some other items on there now that I got for the car and now have no intention of fitting. Ebay does help recoup some money for other things

Ian

whats goin on there dude?

A Newsouth columnpod and boost gauge. I never got round to fitting them and then got the LG so don't really need to now.

Ian

was starting to think a boost gauge is needed, is that the pod for the cubby hole or the A pillar?(dont like those ones) But would really like an LG instead. no more fishing the laptop out of the boot to check and clear codes...

No it's the pod that goes on the steering column, I think bodge has one fitted in his car.

Ian

I've got a bigger tip on mine and I can honestly say don't bother (for stage 1).

I didn't notice any difference and it was a bit of a pain to fit.

Infact if I could change it back to standard without a ball ache I would.

no difference are you sure the standard intake is so restricted what other mods did you have done as you wont see much gain just by putting one of these on ??

Mods are in my sig

You say they are rescricted but what many people forget is people actually spend quite alot of time developing engines / intake etc... it does the job just fine.

Maybe if you go for a bigger turbo or something a bit more beefy then yeah sure, but mapping a few psi extra into the map etc.. simply isn't going to "require it".

They cost alot, and generally are badly made. Mine had issues.

but they build engines to be within certain criteria i.e emmisions etc

thats why there are so many restrictive parts on modern cars the full potential of an engine is only released when you take away the restrictions..

and as proven the cars engines are actually more efficent when the restrictions are removed

but they build engines to be within certain criteria i.e emmisions etc

thats why there are so many restrictive parts on modern cars the full potential of an engine is only released when you take away the restrictions..

and as proven the cars engines are actually more efficent when the restrictions are removed

This is true, however the main idea of silicon tips at least is not so much as to de-restrict but to avoid collapse under high boost which apparantly the rubber tips can do. I run just shy of 21psi and I have never seen/felt evidence of it happening at that level. Maybe if the filter was clogged very badly it could happen but if everything is free flowing and in good condition I really can't see it happening.

Ian

not talking about the silicone tip mate its a solid same as the original just bigger

not talking about the silicone tip mate its a solid same as the original just bigger

What can I say....It's late, I'm knackered, skimming through threads etc, etc generally losing the plot. I will try to keep up in future

Ian

Well won't bother replacing yet as it sounds to be a bit of a waste of time. Main reason for asking is that I want to ensure that after the remap I have covered all bases and this was one thing that was recomended to be upgraded.

Strange thread this..... back in late 03 before mapping i was advised by mates at AMD (Bicester) before they set up APS to get all these little things done ie, Neuspeed tip, 007dv, 100cel cat and system along with fmic and Carbonio so the custom mapping could take it into account.....Mine like Gerry`s old car consistently give great RR figures...

HTH

Phil

Strange thread this..... back in late 03 before mapping i was advised by mates at AMD (Bicester) before they set up APS to get all these little things done ie, Neuspeed tip, 007dv, 100cel cat and system along with fmic and Carbonio so the custom mapping could take it into account.....Mine like Gerry`s old car consistently give great RR figures...

HTH

Phil

Totally agree with Phil on this one, as these items all add to the overall performance of the car.

No point in mapping if the engine cannot breathe properly, but there again, whats the point of doing all this to the engine, without first doing the brakes and suspension to allow for the extra power.

This last point seems to be lost on many on here, but what do we know?.....LOL

I agree, used to frustrate me after the remap that I couldn't put any extra power down exiting corners. Didn't take long to ditch the standard suspension and now have much more control over the car

Ian

Strange thread this..... back in late 03 before mapping i was advised by mates at AMD (Bicester) before they set up APS to get all these little things done ie, Neuspeed tip, 007dv, 100cel cat and system along with fmic and Carbonio so the custom mapping could take it into account.....Mine like Gerry`s old car consistently give great RR figures...

I cannot see how these are 'little' modifications either cost-wise or when declaring on insurance. They seem to be more for stage 2 than stage 1.

The standard vRS only provides 180bhp compared to a simlar 1.8t engined car of the time (Early Seat Leon Cupra R) which could put out 210bhp standard, I cannot see it worth while at Stage 1 to upgrade the suspension and brakes. The only times the brakes seem under-powered is at silly speeds after repeat braking.

My original question was regarding reliabilty at stage 1, and it seems that most people wouldn't recommend upgrading the TIP as it seems to make matters worse. I'm not to bothered what the RR figures would be rather how it drives on the road.

The standard vRS only provides 180bhp compared to a simlar 1.8t engined car of the time (Early Seat Leon Cupra R) which could put out 210bhp standard,

.

Different engine in that one iirc its an AMK. Possibly with bigger turbo although I'm not 100% on that bit, like the 225 BAM block. A standard Cupra has the AUQ block like us.

I cannot see how these are 'little' modifications either cost-wise or when declaring on insurance. They seem to be more for stage 2 than stage 1.

The standard vRS only provides 180bhp compared to a simlar 1.8t engined car of the time (Early Seat Leon Cupra R) which could put out 210bhp standard, I cannot see it worth while at Stage 1 to upgrade the suspension and brakes. The only times the brakes seem under-powered is at silly speeds after repeat braking.

My original question was regarding reliabilty at stage 1, and it seems that most people wouldn't recommend upgrading the TIP as it seems to make matters worse. I'm not to bothered what the RR figures would be rather how it drives on the road.

If your worried about how it drives on the road, then get a ride in a non mapped car that has had the brakes and suspension modified, and then you will realise that this is worth another twenty bhp on its own, as the car will then let you enter and exit corners much faster than you can now with your Revo stage 1, on the straight it will not roll and bounce about.

Re the tip, I had the ABD racing one on my old modified Octy vRS and the turbo spooled up a lot quicker than with the standard restrictive tip, fact not opinion.