have to admit to a little copperslip on the threads myself too,never one worked loose either:D

I had a flat tyre a few weeks ago. My rear wheels had never been off (53 plate vrs). Had to call break down people due to the wheel being stuck. It took him 25 minutes with a sledge hammer and some wood. Not nice to watch! I now know what to expect when the over rear wheel needs taking off.

The easy way to shift them is to loosen the bolts a few turns only, without jacking the car up, and then either drive a couple of feet (VERY SLOWLY), or give the wheel a good pull. The weight of the car shifts them every time IME.

Then as others have said, clean off the corrosion and copperslip the mating surfaces.

If done up properly there's no reason why they'll work lose! Don't forget that the threads also seize inside the hub, making it very hard work to get the wheels off!

Copper slip is just damn good all round!

If done up properly there's no reason why they'll work lose! Don't forget that the threads also seize inside the hub, making it very hard work to get the wheels off!

Copper slip is just damn good all round!

Agreed.... just nice to know I can get the wheels off easily when required

Thank goodness for copper slip....

I had this problem with my rear wheels not too long ago took me about 20 min to get them off, i put copaslip on when i put them bk on tho

I had this problem with my rear wheels not too long ago took me about 20 min to get them off, i put copaslip on when i put them bk on tho

hopefully after this thread no one will have this problem again.... well annoyed that I damaged 2 of my refurbed wheels.... now will have them redone in anthracite...for a slightly individual look

If yours are working loose, I suggest not letting an 8-year-old girl do your wheel bolts up

120nm done up by an 8 year old girl or by me is still 120nm

copper slip helps prevent galvanic corrosion the chemical reaction between the alloy wheel and the cast hub

120nm done up by an 8 year old girl or by me is still 120nm

copper slip helps prevent galvanic corrosion the chemical reaction between the alloy wheel and the cast hub

ok........... just being confident of easy removal wheen needed is good enough for me.....

Due to experience with a couple of seized-on wheels and overtightened fixings in early years of car ownership,:eek: I have the wheels off any 'new' car as soon as I can!

Check/clean the mating faces and lightly copperslip the centre spigots. I also lightly copperslip the wheel bolts/nuts. Check/redo whenever wheels are off. Never had a wheel come loose. Never had a wheel stuck on. Always use a torque wrench to tighten wheel nuts.

Better done when you feel like it and on your drive than when on a trip and it's raining!

(Another good tip is to fix some wire loosely around your exhaust/mountings so that if a mounting breaks, you don't drop your system on the road...)

Thanks for that Ian.....

In future, I will do the same..... surface check and copperslip as neccessary..

Still bl**dy annoyed that I damaged 2 wheels after they fell on removal... sometimes a wheel-free ramp has disadvantages too!!

Still, am going to have all 4 OEM wheels refurbished again in Anthracite...

Like the tip re: exhaust!!!!

I suspect the reason for stating that no lubricant is applied to the road wheel securing bolts comes jointly from the stated torque being for "dry threads" - as is the norm, AND to minimise the risk of the nuts/bolts slackening off quickly if not torqued up correctly. So its really sound belt and braces advice for a safety critical fixing. I must admit I've been changing pads and discs on my B5 Passat, and the wheel bolts do seem to have some copaslip on them - some must have sneaked up/down the threaded holes in the hubs - I'll probably clean that off once I've gone back in and replaced the flexi pipes.