:thumbup:Not sure if they'll be a huge difference between the two........never know tho

Will be good to get some pics of the "fast taxi"

IMHO the first pic is glaretastic.

As for 6k, because you have projectors they will get an added blue tinge anyway towards the fringes, so once the bulbs have burnt in, I think 6k will prove quite blue in colour.

I have a 6k HIDS-Direct Kit on my vRS and the colour is no different to the OEM xenons on the L&K. The only difference is the vRS ones are brighter as it was a 50w kit.

Yeah, these are 35w kits we have. Great value for money anyway.

The bulbs in the OEM fitment headlights are 35w, 4300 Kelvin

Thats what ive fitted then. Good stuff.

Edited 24 June, 201015 yr by a_waugh

Yes, the OE are 35W 4300K 3200 usable Lumens output.

4300K is the highest output colour temperature. Higher temperature bulbs put out less light. For example a 5000K bulb puts out about 5% less light, and a 6000K about 10% less.

A genuine 6000K source will have a definite blue tint to it. All bulbs will appear to give some tinting toward the edge of the beam pattern. This is down to colour separation due to chromatic aberration and diffraction in the light unit, and not a feature of the source itself.

Don't use the kits with a 'error cancelling' (i.e. a large capacitor strapped across the power rails). Use one of the compact kits that will fit entirely within the lamp unit and then code VCDS for 'HID without shutter'. I posted how to do this on a thread back in March.

TBH i'm happy with the results They're very good at night, alot better than my standard bulbs

Heres another 2 pics from the top and side of the 4300k kit.

white sidelights next then, eh Andy

I like the yellow look if im honest.

yeah right :p i've ordered white numbers

are these plug and play or do you have to mod the wiring on the headlamps-i ask this question as ive got a 10 plate and dont want to start chopping the wiring

There are full instructions with them, but its a case of join the wires and away you go. Instead of the spade connectors on the back of the normal H7 bulb, you get 2 spade connectors attached to the back of the HID bulb Thats the only big difference.

The plug that connects to the light unit is the same.

Yes, the OE are 35W 4300K 3200 usable Lumens output.

4300K is the highest output colour temperature. Higher temperature bulbs put out less light. For example a 5000K bulb puts out about 5% less light, and a 6000K about 10% less.

A genuine 6000K source will have a definite blue tint to it. All bulbs will appear to give some tinting toward the edge of the beam pattern. This is down to colour separation due to chromatic aberration and diffraction in the light unit, and not a feature of the source itself.

Don't use the kits with a 'error cancelling' (i.e. a large capacitor strapped across the power rails). Use one of the compact kits that will fit entirely within the lamp unit and then code VCDS for 'HID without shutter'. I posted how to do this on a thread back in March.

I'm glad you posted this as I wouldn't have been able to explain it as well. Mine show a very slight blue tinge, but the light they produce is amazing. In fact I doubt there is much to be gained from 50watt bulbs. The actuall amount of Lumens output isn't going to be that much more. I'm not sure it will be noticable to the eye?

I bought this kit 4300k and its perfect colour! I'm glad they didn't go for 5400, or 6000k.

As Hauptmann says above, there is a safer way ahead for your car. These "CANBUS" safe kits simply have a large capacitor across the headlights to stop the bulb failure light on the dash coming on, and I'd be very worried about the use of capacitors considering the potential cost of replacing the controller in the car. If the capacitor isn't there, the car thinks the bulbs have blown, with them being 35W instead on 55W.

The standard, non-CANBUS kits work just fine, and show no errors if the car is VCDS coded for xenons without shutters. My non-CANBUS kit has been in for a few months now, and I have never once had a bulb failure error come up on the car, neither with the dashboard warning, not on VCDS scan.

Mike

So from this I take it that a 50w kit won't throw a bulb error warning even if not coded as "Xenon without shutter"? I only ask as I've had a set in the boot for a while that I "inherited" off a colleague that I haven't got round to fitting yet.

My 6000k ones aint that blue tbh i'm happy with the look, just need the sidelights sorted :p

I'm glad you posted this as I wouldn't have been able to explain it as well. Mine show a very slight blue tinge, but the light they produce is amazing. In fact I doubt there is much to be gained from 50watt bulbs. The actuall amount of Lumens output isn't going to be that much more. I'm not sure it will be noticable to the eye?

I bought this kit 4300k and its perfect colour! I'm glad they didn't go for 5400, or 6000k.

so which bulbs did you go for H7C-H7R OR H7RC

the ones i have are 35w

Yes, the OE are 35W 4300K 3200 usable Lumens output.

4300K is the highest output colour temperature. Higher temperature bulbs put out less light. For example a 5000K bulb puts out about 5% less light, and a 6000K about 10% less.

A genuine 6000K source will have a definite blue tint to it. All bulbs will appear to give some tinting toward the edge of the beam pattern. This is down to colour separation due to chromatic aberration and diffraction in the light unit, and not a feature of the source itself.

Don't use the kits with a 'error cancelling' (i.e. a large capacitor strapped across the power rails). Use one of the compact kits that will fit entirely within the lamp unit and then code VCDS for 'HID without shutter'. I posted how to do this on a thread back in March.

As Hauptmann says above, there is a safer way ahead for your car. These "CANBUS" safe kits simply have a large capacitor across the headlights to stop the bulb failure light on the dash coming on, and I'd be very worried about the use of capacitors considering the potential cost of replacing the controller in the car. If the capacitor isn't there, the car thinks the bulbs have blown, with them being 35W instead on 55W.

The standard, non-CANBUS kits work just fine, and show no errors if the car is VCDS coded for xenons without shutters. My non-CANBUS kit has been in for a few months now, and I have never once had a bulb failure error come up on the car, neither with the dashboard warning, not on VCDS scan.

Slightly off topic, mine are 4300K, and I've never once been stopped by the police with them on. They are on all the time as DRLs too.

The only problem I had was the matching white sidelights, I tried 2 different types of LED bulbs, and neither lasted more than 3 weeks, so I've gone back to standard bulbs now.

Mike

Guys, can you confirm the ones GeorgeL has are non-canbus type (below) and can be coded with the VCDS, and therefore the safer type?

I'm glad you posted this as I wouldn't have been able to explain it as well. Mine show a very slight blue tinge, but the light they produce is amazing. In fact I doubt there is much to be gained from 50watt bulbs. The actuall amount of Lumens output isn't going to be that much more. I'm not sure it will be noticable to the eye?

I bought this kit 4300k and its perfect colour! I'm glad they didn't go for 5400, or 6000k.

so which bulbs did you go for H7C-H7R OR H7RC

+1.

The kit GeorgeL refers to is non-CANbus and therefore suitable for the Octavia. The controller must be re-coded using VCDS once the kit is fitted.

For the Octavia you should use the standard H7 fitment.

For the Octavia you should use the standard H7 fitment.

Which one of these is the std H7? H7C-H7R or H7RC

Lee.

Edit: scratch that, think I've just figured it out! cheers.

Edited 26 June, 201015 yr by Pagey1255

Sorry to drag this to the top of the forum again but the pictures look stunning.

Was the kit easy to fit? No hacking pieces of plastic/drilling involved?

Are they okay for a MOT?!

The kit was fitted to mine in less than 15 minutes per side, and with the slimline ballasts, everything fits nicely inside the headlight unit. No cutting of wires of plastic housing at all. Nothing to drill either.

MOT -- the only requirement for MOT is that the lights work, and are correctly angled. When you add an HID kit, you will definately need to get your beams aligned. I had mine done at Skoda agent, and it cost me £14.

Regards

Mike

do you take the headlights out to fit this kit if so do you have to remove the front bumper,a detail of how to fit these would be great if poss

Easier to do if headlights come out, yes. Simply remove white plastic nut from back of lamp unit at top, get hold of hook at bottom, and put hook towards centre of car. Headlight then just slides out. Unplug multiplug, install the HID kit as per instructions (unplug wiring to bulb, remove bulb, put newHID bulb in, and plug igniter between HID bulb and original car wiring. Tidy things away inside the housing, plug multiplug back in, offer headlight to body, push sharply in until it clicks into position, and then replace plastic nut.

Couldn't be easier.!

EDIT Bumper does not need to be removed or touched

Mike

you got a link to the kit you bought,also what about warnings on the dashboard i assume everythink is spot on and problem free