Skip to content

Replacement lower intercooler hose

Featured Replies

Hi guys, currently running a stainless steel top boost hose but im having problems with the connection from the bottom of the stainless pipe to the original lower intercooler hose directly behind the drivers side light cluster.

I have been running it like this for about a year but after fitting a PD150 turbo the extra boost seems to be getting the better of the connection.

Im wondering if anyone knows the degree of the bend of the lower intercooler pipe so i can get on of these and then run some pipe up to the pipes iv got now so i can stop the hoses popping off.

Thanks in advance, Elliott

Not needed!

All you need is 4 large self tappers

Stick them at 90 degree intervals through the collar of the boost hose and intercooler collar!!

Will never come off again and costs peanuts

  • Author

iv heard you talk of this before jase and completely forgot. Great advice mate thanks alot. Gotta be worth a go :thumbup:

Hi Elliott,

I have the entire lower turbo piping in silicone - from the turbo to the lower end of the I/C.

You need 2 90' pieces and a 45' piece plus 2 couplers (300mm length). My piping is 2 1/2 inches diameter (as are the two joiners)The small piece you mention is 90' and you would be best to approach SFS for the 2 hose end pieces which are higher quality than the originals and provide a deeper recess for the horseshoe shaped clips. Think they are about £35-40 for a pair of hose end pieces.They do an upper kit which includes the small piece you mention. I had a 'specialised' piece tooled for the turbo connection in order to allow for a 2 1/2 inch hose connection - the original is around 1 3/4?. I wanted to see the difference in performance but found out today that it costs £60 for a RR print out! There is a positive increase in power and at some points it feels like it is approaching the standard clutch's limit (310 lbf??). I was at 294 lbf.

yeah standard hose off turbo is around 40mm...

i uprated mines all to 51mm throughout

if you take the intercooler out you will see exactly what i mean by the self tapper

easy peasy ....

you could even clean the smic out while your there with some carb cleaner (hit 2 birds with one stone)

I did the screw thing jase suggested and so far so good.

Only out 3 in 2x10 screws then siliconed the top of them.

Even some 1/2 inchers would do

I used mahoosive ones

Probably 12's

I'd advise using a pilot drill bit smaller than the thread of the screw it makes it easier

Screw Schmoo...get a bit of quality on there chaps (SFS hose to intercooler joiner top - Original item bottom)

DSCN2460.JPG?psid=1

DSCN2461.JPG?psid=1

yeah and how much did they cost?

£25 each or something silly?

they are still made of cheese (aluminium) so they wont last forever either

my forge one used to seep oil aswell so not perfect :thumbup:

  • Author

Cheers for the advice guys, the bumper and smic is coming off on friday so il have a good look round it and sort something for it. Its very annoying driving slow everywere just to make sure all the hoses stay on :(

cheers again, Elliott

Don't think there is a 'perfect' seal - unless it was welded. They are about £38 for two couplers - I think. The connection is much tighter and therefor less air escapes - more to feed the turbo - haven't noticed any oil escaping. My originals used to dribble like a Doberman sucking an Opal Fruit. Another benefit of the improved sealing is that there is less noise that comes from the motor. Much of the car/engine is aluminium so should last as long as that.

Edited by Macalan

  • 4 months later...

Has anyone got pics of this on an actual car? I'm trying to sort this on my VRS too but haven't got the foggiest on what you guys are talking about.

  • Author

just reading down to see who has bumped this thread up :)

If your looking at the left hand side of the engine bay, the top boost hose runs out the egr valve with teh 90 degree bend, into the plastic boost pipe that runs to just behind the light, then a bend into the smic. You need to find where your is poping off or leaking from (boost test) then find out which bit has failed i.e which side of the join, then replace that pipe. Most people have issues with the lower intercooler pipe from the plastic boost hose to the smic. If either your plastic boost hose or the top 90 degree bend has failed, i have a spare if you would like it :) hope you sort it mate

Elliott

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.