That's my thinking.

As it was I set to this and after getting the calliper and pads off realised the disks looked in pretty good nick, compared to what i had previously thought.

So I cleaned them up at the edges and measured the thickness, which was well above the 10mm limit (closer to 11.3mm)

After that I cleaned it all up and fitted the new pads without issue.

Things I'd note:

- You have no room down there and no matter how I tried, you couldn't get a ratchet spanner in there without some serious jacking up of the rear hub area.

- 100% they are M14 and they have to come off if you want to get the disk off. No way on earth you can do it without on those disks.

- I'd change them anyway, as the heads are a bit rusty, so you wouldn't wan't to do it after 2 sets of disks.

- The carriers etc get really grubby back there (Far more than most cars I've seen) and you'll need to spend some time with a wire brush and a good amount of brake cleaner.

- The calliper on the drivers side really is a **** to wind back, although the other was quite tough too.

- Do use the new springs and bolts that come with the genuine pads.

Anyway, I've now got a set of genuine disk to find a home for or return, but apart from that, it's all good.

Weather consipred against me doing the brake fluid, so I'll either do that another time, or get a local indy to do it.

Edited 23 June, 201213 yr by cheezemonkhai

Just had my car in for its MOT (which it passed with flying colours of course ) and whilst it was there I got them to fit the Pagid rear pads I bought from ECP recently. Cost was £25+ VAT. One very happy bunny and £30 well spent! Saves me a damp morning of grubbing around under the car on the road.

Caliper bolts were tough, but nothing a push on the wrench with the foot couldn't overcome!

That's all that I did but later added a 2 ft torque wrench to my standard Halfords kit and that was enough leverage to get them on and off no problem. I have reused the caliper bolts a number of times without problem but will replace the next time as they are cheap.

That's a job I'll add to the list of 'I hope I never have to do again'. Fronts were easy but those rear carrier bolts, what a FPITA!.

That's a job I'll add to the list of 'I hope I never have to do again'. Fronts were easy but those rear carrier bolts, what a FPITA!.

Complete b*gger to get to in a way you can get decent leverage, when the car is on the ground IMHO.

Sounds like you managed to get it done though

Mine need doing again, ill tackle it next week.

Complete b*gger to get to in a way you can get decent leverage, when the car is on the ground IMHO.

Sounds like you managed to get it done though

I bought the M14 spline from AVS parts and they sent a 75mm spline,which I thought before I started the job would be too long if I needed to apply a decent torque too. In the end it was too long full stop as far as space available went. What I did was punch it out of the half inch socket fitting it comes in, cut it down to about 20mm and just used that bit on its own with a normal 14mm socket and my 600mm breaker bar. The top one I managed to do by getting the bar out through along the line of the trailing arm. The bottom was a bit comical though but I was thankful I had a gravel drive as I ended up digging a bloody hole so I could get the bar on vertically down and could get it done like that. As for 90nm and angular torque, f*** that I just did it FT and that was that LOL. As a glutton for punishment I changed the gearbox oil too before attacking the brakes. That was easy enough to do though, only surprise was that my reading up on the subject suggested I would need an M16 spline for the drain and refill/level pulgs but on the Octavia it's a 10mm allen fitting.

My advice for anyone doing the rear discs is do it on a ramp, it really is a ballache on the ground.

I hope you put plenty of coppaslip on so they come out easier next time round!

I hope you put plenty of coppaslip on so they come out easier next time round!

I do about 8000 a year max. I'm hoping there wont need to be a next time for the rear discs.

Wondering if they actually are astretch bolt or not.

What are 'Stretch Bolts'?

I'm just being nosey, but when tightened to the correct torque, all bolts will stretch to some degree.

Is there anything marked on them, such as 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9.

If you tighten them too tight you can get stress relaxation which will cause the bolt to become loose over time. I had a problem at work where the locknuts were coming loose on a job due to the torque being too high and deforming the nut, although the torque was within specifcation for the bolt material.

Stretch bolts are single use bolts, that will stretch when tightened and can't then be reused and reliably get the torque.

Some, such as the engine mounts are single use and I've heard of them breaking if re-used.

Can the stretch bolts be replaced with normal bolts.?

This might work to tighten them, BUT they are a part of a very important safety device on your car!

And they dont put stretch bolts on them for nothing.

Normal bolts could break under stress, as the stretch bolts still have a possibillity to stretch.

Different material for different tasks.

The link posted for rear brake pad/disc change by Chr1Staylor (http://www.seatcupra...ad.php?t=225698) is superb. But as mentioned above the piston must be rotated when retracting it AND OPEN THE BLEED VALVE SO THAT DIRTY FLUID IS NOT PUSHED INTO THE ANTI-LOCK SYSTEM!!

I have a Mk2 Octy and Mk1 Haynes manual. It says that the centre console must be removed to release the handbrake cables so that they can be removed at the brake. It was very helpful to see that the job can be done while leaving the handbrake cables attached. My pads came without bolts - Haynes says replace them.

Correction! Bolts are provided with my Ferodo replacement pads.

The link posted for rear brake pad/disc change by Chr1Staylor (http://www.seatcupra...ad.php?t=225698) is superb. But as mentioned above the piston must be rotated when retracting it AND OPEN THE BLEED VALVE SO THAT DIRTY FLUID IS NOT PUSHED INTO THE ANTI-LOCK SYSTEM!!

I have a Mk2 Octy and Mk1 Haynes manual. It says that the centre console must be removed to release the handbrake cables so that they can be removed at the brake. It was very helpful to see that the job can be done while leaving the handbrake cables attached. My pads came without bolts - Haynes says replace them.

This guide doesnt correspond with the octavia, on the octavia you must remove the caliper carrier which is a right pain due to the bolts being tightened to 90NM + 90 degrees and lack of room if your just using axle stands.

This guide doesnt correspond with the octavia, on the octavia you must remove the caliper carrier which is a right pain due to the bolts being tightened to 90NM + 90 degrees and lack of room if your just using axle stands.

Going to tackle those bolts again next week, took plenty of sweat and blood the last time. Should be easier this time...

Edited 5 April, 201313 yr by 07 vRS Taxi

Can you tell what tool you use to remove the calliper carrier bolts on the Mk2 Octavia Bosch BIRIII brakes? It's splined, but what size?

Can you tell what tool you use to remove the calliper carrier bolts on the Mk2 Octavia Bosch BIRIII brakes? It's splined, but what size?

m14

You will have to remove the carriers as the disks won,t come off.They didn,t on my 1.9.Pretty easy though.

 

Just completed replacing the discs and pads all round on my 2009 Octavia 1.9 TDI. I can report that the caliper carriers DO NOT require to be removed on my car (rear disc size 255mm) which I was delighted to discover as by all accounts they can be extremely awkward to deal with.

The only problem I had was on the last wheel (rear) where the caliper piston refused to budge. At one point my rewind tool became stuck and it's restraining plate started to buckle under the pressure. Managed to get it free eventually and got it to move sufficiently (with a wrench attached and much persuasion!) to squeeze in the new pads. It seems OK, car braking evenly and wheel is free to move with handbrake off so think it's working although I'll keep an eye on it.

I just completed this front and rear disc and pad on a vrs 2013.

I can confirm, it's a pig of a job.

Remove the wheel arch liners for a little more clearance for bar extensions and added bonus to remove old leaves from inner wing.

Discs stick to the hubs like nothing else I've done before. Prybars and hammering on the hub more than the disc eventually work.

Rear discs on a vrs do require removal of damper and spring even with a shallow m14 socket and flexi extension. 

I was limited in the distance from the floor so I made sure it was on axle stands and then used a normal socket wrench and extended it with half a jack handle and tightened it first to release corrosion then loosened it with patience and effort...

I was lucky to find a broken spring as part of this job so it's an easy replace job now it's all free and greased up.

When you are done and covered in grime from the brake dust and wheel arm dust,  shower and take a glass of well deserved beverage of choice. 

If if wasn't for this excellent forum I would never believe you need to remove rear suspension to change a disc. Thanks everyone

20 minutes ago, 6carjon said:

I just completed this front and rear disc and pad on a vrs 2013.

I can confirm, it's a pig of a job.

Remove the wheel arch liners for a little more clearance for bar extensions and added bonus to remove old leaves from inner wing.

Discs stick to the hubs like nothing else I've done before. Prybars and hammering on the hub more than the disc eventually work.

Rear discs on a vrs do require removal of damper and spring even with a shallow m14 socket and flexi extension. 

I was limited in the distance from the floor so I made sure it was on axle stands and then used a normal socket wrench and extended it with half a jack handle and tightened it first to release corrosion then loosened it with patience and effort...

I was lucky to find a broken spring as part of this job so it's an easy replace job now it's all free and greased up.

When you are done and covered in grime from the brake dust and wheel arm dust,  shower and take a glass of well deserved beverage of choice. 

If if wasn't for this excellent forum I would never believe you need to remove rear suspension to change a disc. Thanks everyone

 

It is a pig of a job but I didn’t have to remove the damper and spring to get my rear carriers off.  I’m not saying it wouldn’t help the access greatly, just not essential.

Replaced my rear discs (272mm) recently, and yes, it was a carrier off job. Read up and bought the M14 triple square sockets and caliper rewind tool beforehand. Straightforward job, access not too bad for tools with car jacked up far enough to remove wheel. 

After being defeated with the caliper bolts 4 years ago,  I decided to have another go today with a new 18" Halfords breaker bar which was perfect for the job.