It might have been a little bit of heat soak. Had you been driving hard on/off for a while? because the stock IC takes a fair while to recover. You'll notice drop off in power at 5-6k in the higher gears when the car gets hot. Mine used to do it before the IC/rad was fitted

agreed, sounds like heat soak to me.....

'Heat Soak'

in this weather and out for a little blast, i think not!

He was not at a track day or doing 100's of miles with a 26 degree ambient temp.

I regularly do a 120 non stop trip, then back on nice empty roads and over one of the highest and steepest climbing roads,

here is a trip on the hottest day this year in the UK

No heat soak was encountered.

Something far wrong with your car if it is getting 'heat soak' out on the open road when being given a bit of go juice!!

http://forum.diffloc...pic.php?t=68860

cooler day but even steeper climbs.

http://forum.diffloc...pic.php?t=69039

It was being used hard that weekend with a Pro rally driver driving

& at no point was there 'Heat soak'

(foot of the thread)

http://forum.diffloc...pic.php?t=68933

george

Edited 23 June, 201214 yr by sk4gw

your just as likely to get heat soak on a normal road tbh, lower speeds = lower cooling to a certain degree as less air is passing through the IC.. Believe me i have logged my car both on road and track. Heat soak does occur on mapped cars. Even on relatively cool days of 20degree ambient, IATs soar 50-60degrees above that and take an age to reduce back down to 10 degrees above ambient. Until you have physically logged a car with VCDS or VAS and seen the temperatures rising, ignition timing being retarded to compensate, and then boost being pulled back you cannot appreciate the amount it occurs.

Theres nothing wrong with the car at all if yiu get heatsoak. lots of cars get it, especially when mapped. Higher boost = more heat = heatsoak quicker. You can see it on dyno pulls with massive fans in front of them. 3 WOT runs back to back will show drops of 10-20hp. Add an intercooler and theres no drop in power at all with 5+ runs.

I no longer have the heatsoak issue, which was very prominent before both on road when driven spiritedly and of course track temps are also lower.

Most people dont even realise they have heatsoak or there is a power loss, its only when your really going through the rpm band that it will become obvious.

All very interesting,

But like i said, about 'Wilko251088' having a little road test of his re-map and 'Heat soak' , "i do not think so!"

I think he needs to look at when he is shifting up manually.

Thats my 275bhp built to run just on 110 octane LPG engine in the Gallery in the Orange 110,

Same full race engine as they build for the Morgans and Ultimas.

It did a 14.8 quarter mile at a terminal 98 mph.

(it was stripped of the roof rack and winch etc)

i know all about heat soak, cooling and Dynos ,have run a few V8's and others.

http://www.v8engines.com

george

Edited 23 June, 201214 yr by sk4gw

a road test of a remap is never a little test. It would certainly have been getting worked harder than normal daily driving.

I thought that would be getting taken for granted.

Lets see what the man that was driving says and how he gets on.

Here are my times with a Standard car but lightened a little with Rear Seats and Rear Weight removed and my fat 112kg driving.

205/40/17 Bridgstones RE050A & hot and Mobile 1 at over 95 degrees, good grippy road surface & TC on, In 'D' not 'S'.

Recorded using 'V1 Monitor'

Real road surface for real world performance not a sticky strip & not static on a Dyno.

http://www.micromovements.co.uk/Site/pdf/Peiseler/Dbprint_prosp_eng.pdf

0-50 5.1

0-60 6.3

0-70 7.9

0-80 9.9

30-50 2.6

50-70 2.8

george

Edited 23 June, 201214 yr by sk4gw

You need to remember just how sensitive these engines are to heat. 1° increase in IAT's is one Bhp lost. So as sy said seeing increases of 30/40° is reducing the bhp back down to 180bhp due to heatsoak. Not many engines out there even big bhp twin Turbo engines are this sensitive to heat.

I'm not sure as I'm no expert, I'll see if I can explain it to everyone following this a little better. Conditions were wet and rain, was driving a little harder than usual but not like I had stole it. Through all gears power seemed to be there the second the gear had changed, 5th gear not held onto that long, dropping into 6th mid rpm. Cars acceleration felt dumbed down (as if it took longer to change gear), then picks up again. Try to re create several times, trying different stretches of road. This time held onto 5th longer then into 6th and the transaction felt smoother. So doesn't happen everytime, but the day I picked it up the ambient temp was a lot warmer than last night and I didn't get the car doing this.

I went straight stage 2 so you may feel my opinion invalid but what I noticed was before the cars power is very linear in the way there's no part of the rev range that's stronger than the other. However now I'm mapped it feels more like a Turbo car in the way its good upto 4k but then really pulls from 4k onwards. Its not that below 4k is worse its just over 4k is a lot better making below feel slow.

Going out on about 5-10 mins in it down some good straights again. It feels like a definable drop. I feel it might be due to dropping it into 6th to early, like in a manual car if you went 5-6th without letting the revs built up would feel lag until revs build up again.

I spoke to Rainworth Skoda this morning about a Revo remap. They wanted £469, being a dealer that should be negotiable though.

What has everyone else paid for the remap?

For comparison to the stats above, my car is completely standard:

0-60 mph 7.3 seconds

50-70 mph 4.5 seconds

In sport mode, tyres just inflated, TC on, fair dry surface.

I would be curious to learn the 0-100 mph of a stage 1 car. Mine is doing it in the 18's

Also if remapping, would there be benefit in upgrading the engine oil to something that may run a boot cooler (Not sure if this is possible?)

For comparison to the stats above, my car is completely standard:

0-60 mph 7.3 seconds

50-70 mph 4.5 seconds

Have you actually timed your 0-60? Because I also thought the 0-60 time was 7.3" as Skoda suggests and I was always taking with a pinch of salt people claiming they did mid 6's on stock cars. That was, until I timed mine (100% stock) through Torque app with poor Nexen winters on, and achieved an impressive 6.7" with the 1st try... hence probable of getting 6.5" with best conditions.

That was actually a nice revelation and one that's kept me from desperately wanting a remap as of yet. It's nice to know that people think of your car only as fast as 7.3 to 0-60 while you know it can hit it at 6.5-6.7 easily...

Think the 7.3seconds is 0-62

Drove it before got the revs higher in 5th before moving to 6th got a smooth transaction. Think as 6 and 7 are more cruising gears and the cars power will drop off if revs aren't built up before changing? Is this a viable theory? Mike

Think the 7.3seconds is 0-62

No, I did the 0-100 km/h test (which is the 0-62 mph you are referring to) for which the quoted time is 7.3" and got 6.7" easily with winters on as I said before.

And in any case between 0-60mph and 0-62mph there would be maximum 0.1-0.2 seconds more, hence the difference between mine (6.7) which was a 0-100 kmh and the 6.5" which were quoted for 0-60 mph.

Have you actually timed your 0-60?

The times I posted where timed myself.

The times I posted where timed myself.

There's a lot affecting a 0-60 and most important, tyres condition. In case of the Dunlops which a lot of the vRS's come with from factory, they take a lifetime to get properly warmed up. Another time I measured the 0-100 kmh I did a poor 7.1" but had only been driving he car for just half an hour or so, which if its driving on public roads is nothing. Then there's always the condition of the tarmac, the slight inclination which may be there etc. etc. All in all, one's 0-62 can be totally different from another's as almost most affecting factors could be different between them. Apologise for going OT!

All valid points.

But it doesn't change the times I accurately recorded, wouldn't dream of doing these tests unless the car was suitably warmed up either, with a decent clear, flat road surface ahead.

I would say the torque app is questionable, as it's not specifically designed to be used for the above.

There are so many variables, I would just accept two similar cars have posted two similar times.

Try the Renault Sport app - very good timing system on this app.

I'll email my tuner Monday see what they advise, might just be me. Will let you know :-)

Running stock emulated map at the moment, not sure I am enjoying it remapped. Think it's a little harsh on the engine, I know some of you guys are running stage 2 etc. But I just don't think I can settle my mind from thinking something's going to give. Possibly looking to having it returned to normal this week, as the ecu is in a unlocked state they will probably just plug it in and write over the map with the original Skoda one in no time. I would feel a little bad giving how much effort went into getting it done for me, but end of the day it's my car and revo are the ones who offer these guarantees. Mike

Edited 24 June, 201214 yr by Wilko251088

Revo are reniwned for coming in strong rarly. Its why I dont like their maps. Smooth oem delivery is what your after

its nice to drive just normally, but it can get a little too aggressive. shame i'd need a cruise control stalk fitted before hand to get apr otherwise that would of been the preferred choice.