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Ok... it seems ive broken it ...... Quick rack time ?

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Take it somewhere else first Lloyd. If the rack itself was knackered, I wouldn't expect it to quieten down just by grabbing it. Probably the inner tie rods, or potentially even just the rack mount bush. Could be wrong though, since this system is only bushed at one end. It's not the best I've ever seen...

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  • I like it .... needs new rack, ends up with new front end setup !!! This place is dangerous lol

  • some later 180 did have a quick rack believe it or not, but agree go for 225 to be sure.....As will only make Lloyd panic with too much choice.....lol. Bet he is having a sweat already....."shall i f

  • i know, a year ago i logged on to try and figure out a fault code, now i have a car that cant drive through a town near me cos of an aggressive speed bump

+1 inner tie rods or loose nut somewhere

This might be something unrelated but is it worth trying to tighten the rack up? I've not had to do it on mine but I'm sure there's a thread on here (and definitely on ukmkiv's) about a way to tighten up slop in the rack. Like I say, it may not be the issue but it could help..

Ill pm you after work mate. Get better story. Shame i work nights.

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So you guys think a second opinion then ?

Yup def.

Check your pas fluid int contaminated too

Or pink for that matter

If it really does seem to be happening as it's warming up, the pump itself seems more likely. Thought they're usually pretty reliable. How are your PAS levels?

If there is any chance (ie - due to airlocks etc) that the pump can run dry, they cavitate and self-destruct pretty quickly though. Hydraulic pumps are brilliant as long as you keep them wet. Although I would expect the pressure levels required in power steering aren't high enough to cause serious cavitation, but that is just a guess. I'm used to working on proper hydraulics.

  • Author

Fluid level is ok

:(

Getting ratty now cos cant afford to wrongly change it

Fluid level is ok

:(

Getting ratty now cos cant afford to wrongly change it

its almost impossible to diagnose online without seeing the car, however did you get the tie rod ends/balljoints checked too as i suggested before?

  • Author

:( i just gave it to the garage folk and asled to see what was knocking

While i twas at the dentist, it was only on the ramps 5 - 10 mins ??

:( i just gave it to the garage folk and asled to see what was knocking

While i twas at the dentist, it was only on the ramps 5 - 10 mins ??

well seing as we can diagnose it properly, either trust what he says and fit a new rack, or take it to another garage and get another check.either way its no biggy, its just a part, on a car!

  • Author

Its not the part lol

Its the money in my wallet ....... Or lack of :D

A nice credit card and a full TT front set up would be nice ;)

Its not the part lol

Its the money in my wallet ....... Or lack of :D

A nice credit card and a full TT front set up would be nice ;)

do you have another car? i assume you do?use that till you have the money to fix simples!

  • Author

I did think about refunding the tax :D thens its illegal to go get it fixed lmao

I'll try get a second opinion and have proper chat with the lads who peeked

If its the rack.... Is worse case it wont steer and into hedge or bus

  • Author

Soo...

If rack the options are

1 used oem rack £50 "trev said from 100k car"

2 a random TT one from ebay £? " and hope it ok"

3 a recon'd one £250-£300" dunno if would be oe refurbed or a aftermarket as they are sprayed "

4 oem refurbed is £581

5 oem new is nye £700 :(

Anything i shouldnt get ?

Soo...

If rack the options are

1 used oem rack £50 "trev said from 100k car"

2 a random TT one from ebay £? " and hope it ok"

3 a recon'd one £250-£300" dunno if would be oe refurbed or a aftermarket as they are sprayed "

4 oem refurbed is £581

5 oem new is nye £700 :(

Anything i shouldnt get ?

just get a second hand stock replacement or (imo) an upgraded tt one, it a no brainer, why would you spend 581 refurbing yours?

unless it seizes mate youll still steer it just be very heavy.

pm on way, sorry it took so long :blush:

Used rack is fine, don't throw money at it, they are usually reliable items.

I still think its more related to the tie rods, or something loose.

Post up that video you pm'd me as it may shed some light

It wont let me put the vid up :(

I have found these dudes 2 mins up the road :D

http://www.westernpo...o.uk/index.html

Trev offered me his for a bargin 50

thing is seems a shame to go to the effort of taking the rack out and not putting a quickrack in,

though 50 is a great deal for sure...

so go stock, and get his...

or go modded, and get something like this (assuming they are off a 225 tt or a 180 with the quickrack) will save you loads of time, and you get the uprated arb (if you dont have it) the dogbone, wishbones and subframe, then you can swap it all out in one go (will save time and labour cost on doing bushes etc) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mk1-Audi-TT-Subframe-and-Steering-Rack-/140869846808?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20cc7f4718 you might get it for 250, then any bits you dont need/want you can sell on.

get thoe other bits up for sale? they will pay for it mostly!

My Audi is 11 years old, on just short of 182K miles and still on the original steering rack and PAS pump. When I got it the steering was not right, and made some strange noises, took it to a local VAG specialist and they diagnosed one of the inner track rods. After a new inner track rod was fitted on one side, no more noises or clonking.

Before going down the rack route, get the inner track rod ends checked. They cost peanuts in comparison to a replacement rack and the labour charge will also be more wallet friendly.

when people say inner track rod ends they mean the rod?

there is only 2 parts to them, the rod which has the ball and head on it and the tie rod end that screws on the rod and goes into the hub.

the rods are cheaper than the rack for sure but still not cheap, for the miles Lloyds car has done I cant see why the solid metal ball and outer has worn? the outer ends have more movement in them and would wear out first surely?

might be worth a punt tho, but get it looked at again and try find somone with a pit so the car can stay on the floor. that way the preasure is on everything.

am wondering if its the fact he runs 20" wheels, perhaps its put extra stress on them somehow.

it all needs checking for movement with a pry bar too.

Good suggestion getting it done on the floor above a pit too!

my tie rods went very quickly after lowering and bigger tyres

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