PDC OPS advice

[Adamusmani]

On 09/01/2013 at 23:00, KBPhoto said:

That would be such an obvious thing to do

(If only I'd thought of that...)

Hi my Skoda Octavia is mk2 2006 and I have stock rear pdc parking sensors. I am getting a Columbus unit fitted and don’t think it will be compatible and display with the pdc parking system. 

 

My parking sensors are 7H0 919 275C however I changed one of the four as it was not working to 7H0 919 275.

My parking sensor module unit is 1Z0 919 283 B

 

how would I check the address to which my current pdc unit is connected to on the can controller. I don’t have a vag-com VCDS.

[langers2k]

Easy, just google for it as you'll almost certainly find an autoscan including that module.

 

Quote

Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 1Z0-919-283.lbl
Part No SW: 1Z0 919 283 B HW: 1Z0 919 283 B

Component: Parkhilfe 4-Kan H04 0020

 

Comes up as address 76 so is likely to be PDC and incompatible with the OPS display on a Columbus.

[Adamusmani]

On 07/01/2014 at 17:55, KBPhoto said:

When fitting a new controller to a pre-FL car (or when adding front sensors to existing rears) with existing sensors there is some rewiring needed to get OPS working.

It is not really a problem with the wrong protocol but the way it is wired (AFAIK). Although there is a minimum version of CAN gateway needed, I am sure that version K is sufficient.

It has been documented in this forum and on 'My GTi' and is not the easiest if tasks but not impossible for a home 'mechanic'.

Hi I am going to have a Columbus fitted into my pre fl Octavia mk2 2006 and I currently have stock pdc rear parking sensor system and I believe that it is not compatible with the Columbus so I need to upgrade to ops. 

 

The module ops module I have been told to buy is 5J0 919 475 A as I only have rear parking sensors 4K

 

I have found out the address for the module is I have is 76 and has to be changed to 10 by VCDS. 

 

The article which applies to me is this 

 

https://www.my-gti.com/739/upgrading-of-volkswagen-park-distance-control-pdc-to-optical-parking-system-ops

 

 

The only thing is the wiring I sort of understand what the article said I have to do by taking out pin 3, 7 and 14 from the orange connector which goes into the module and taking out pin 2 on the can gateway. 

 

Then I use 000979987 twisted data wire can connect CAN high to pin 6 and CAN Low to pin 15 of orange module connector T16

(Do I remove the current wire in these pins and replace)

 

Then connecting the other side of the data wire to canbus gateway connector (T-20e) which I believe is the blue connector in the attached picture that plugs into the can gateway CAN high is pin 16 and CAN low is to pin 6.  

Then remove pin 2 from the same can gateway connector.

 

Then code the new parking ops module to address 10 with vds 

 

However once that is done what do I do with the wires left so the pin 2 from the can gateway connector and the pin 3, 7 and 14 from the module connector (orange aka T16)

 

I believe they need to be insulated so would using electrical tape work and if not will butt connectors work.

 

Also so in the items list on the mygti website it has a repair wire in the list 000 979 009. What would I need this for ?

 

Thank you

[razor1199]

Hey,

I'm reviving this topic once again.

I want fit OPS in my 2008 Octavia 2 prefl vRS. There I have "1K0 907 530 Q" gateway, front and rear sensors (only checked in ETKA) 7H0919275C, and old PDC xxxxxx283 module and RNS 510 ofc. I want to fit another module, much of them are expensive in poland, but I found that there are cheap one but I need approval or fitable numbers. Can I fit "4H0 919 475 H" (audi a6) instead of "3C8 919 475"?

Or maybe are you able to post which numbers I can fit, maybe I will find then cheap one. 

[Inex]

On 23/02/2013 at 19:50, adamal said:

Cheers lads, I really am well chuffed. The missus can’t see what the fuss is about but I love it.

Firstly a huge thank you to all who helped with this, in particular hell666 whose own posting into retrofitting sensors and subsequent advice helped immensely, but all of you really. To give something back here is a summary of the steps I took to retrofit OPS, already having the front and rear sensors installed at build time with just standard pdc. This I think applies to all pre FL cars, but definitely those with a parking controller with part number ending 283.

There are differences if you have only rear sensors which I will try and explain.

Parts

Parking controller 5K0919475E for eight sensors, 45 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id358.html), or 5J0919475A for rears sensors only, 40 euros (http://www.carsystem...rade,id477.html)

CAN wiring from dealer 000979987, £14 for 10m

Repair wires from dealer 000979009, £2.51 each (I bought a few for various jobs, you'll need three for this)

Webbing tape (the part number from a dealer is 000979950, £6 for 10m, but its probably cheaper in somewhere like Maplins)

Extra PDC buzzer for front sensors if relevant 8E0919279 (http://www.carsystem...9279,id470.html) £10

About £80 total cost for a car with eight sensors fitted already, although older cars may need a CAN gateway upgrade – apparently revision E is the earliest revision for this to work according to the mygti site. I believe Eddie-NL sells them and will know a lot more about installing them and coding them than me.

Steps

On the left hand side of the car, pull the trim off the front sill panel, loosen the trim at the bottom of the b pillar (easiest if you take the top trim off first), and then lift rear seat, undo the plastic screw on the rear sill panel and lift that trim panel a bit. That should give you enough room to run the CAN wiring twisted pair from the front of the car to the back. Also if you have front sensors and want to put the front buzzer in the oem position at the front of the car, run a second pair of wires front to back at this point. I made two mini looms by wrapping the two pairs of wires in tape. In the case of the CAN wiring it needs to be a twisted pair. As Eddie said earlier probably not worth skimping on an alternative to genuine wiring.

In my case, I passed the CAN wires through the grommet above the pollen filter housing under the glove box. If you take the battery out you can see rubber nipples near the battery tray which you can snip the end off and pass a stiff wire through which then comes out in the cabin by the pollen filter housing. I found this quite fiddly, but a straightened old coat hanger did the trick for me. Attach the CAN wiring to the end of the stiff wire and pull it back through to the engine bay.

Next access the CAN gateway from behind the wiper assembly. See this guide: http://www.r32oc.com...cation-removal/, which is for a Golf but spot on for the Octy too. Then run the CAN wiring to the gateway plug (I went through the grommets on the scuttle panel and then cable tied the loom in a few places). Next pull the plug from the gateway and identify the DRIVE CAN wires. These are black/orange and brown/orange. Black orange is CAN high at pin 16, the brown orange is CAN low at pin 6. Use a small screwdriver tip to flick off the catch and take the cover off the plug, and then remove these two wires carefully by pressing on the tabs inside the plug and pulling them out gently. Once the wires are removed from the plug you have just enough room to solder the CAN pair to them. Leaving a little distance from the terminals, strip an inch of the insulation from each of the existing DRIVE CAN wires (fiddly) and then wrap each of the CAN wires you have run to the relevant existing wire, and solder well. Insulate with tape, put the plug back together and plug it in, and then put the wipers etc. all back together. Obviously the new wire has to run under the cover for the gateway so I made sure it ran in at the top of that cover - as there is no screw at the top, I figured the seal wasn’t as important there. It is less likely to see moisture there as you will see when you come to this step.

If you have a pre 2007 car, the gateway is behind the glovebox so this bit will be much easier. Also there may be better places to connect to the DRIVE CAN that involve less work which others can point to.

Now turn the attention to the back of the car and strip away the trim from the left side of the boot. I started by taking the centre trim of the rear sill away (three plastic nuts by spare), then the lower d pillar trim (screws and clips), then the c pillar upper trim, and then the luggage cover support. You need to remove caps from the hooks to access the screws and also there is a screw behind the big hook. Then I pulled the rear seat bolster off at the top (just a good tug), and unscrewed the side trim. The rivet things by the cd changer (if you have one) pull out easily with a long nose pliers applied on the centre pin. This is for an estate, a hatch will be slightly different I imagine.

Now you can see the controller on the inside of the wheel arch, with three plugs, one bigger 16 pin brown plug and two smaller 12 pin (brown and black) plugs for the sensors. Pull them all out and take off the old controller (two nuts), and then put the new one in its place. On the 16 pin plug, take the cover off and extract pins 3, 7 and 14, these are no longer needed, so insulate them off and cable tie them to the loom away from the action. The CAN wire you attached to CAN high should go into pin 6, and the wire you attached to CAN low should go into pin 15. I soldered a small piece of repair wire onto the end of each wire to provide the terminals.

If you have front sensors the new controller requires a second pdc buzzer to be installed (the old one managed with just the one). If you want OEM, the other loom you ran earlier needs to be connected to pins 3 and 4 of the smaller brown plug (they will be empty), and the other end of the loom is then run behind the dash to the speaker which is attached to the ledge just to the left of the steering wheel, and accessible from the hole the top box sits in, or from the hole for the stereo (you needn’t remove the stereo, but its easier if you do). Again you use the repair wires to provide the terminals and solder them to each end of the loom.

The old controller had separate outputs to each of the rear sensors , but the new combines the positive and negative of all four to a common pin. So take the eight positive (blacks) and negative (browns) pins out of the black 12 pin plug, cut the terminals off, join the four positives, join the four negatives, and then solder a terminal onto each join. Plug into pins 8 (negative) and 11 (positive).

Finally you need to get someone with VCDS to code the car to tell it to use address 10 on the gateway, not 76. Then code address 10, I used 100001, but the long coding helper will give the options and you need to choose the relevant ones.

Fire it up, stick it in reverse or press your PDC button, and hopefully Robert is a close male relative....

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Attempting to follow this on a 2007 pre-FL Octavia Elegance. The car is equipped with front and rear sensors and an RCD330+ radio where I would like to get the sensors to show up.

 

I plan to share the results here once finished.

[Inex]

For newcomers who attempt this, I recommend you follow the instructions of these 2 threads:

 

 

I have just done on my 2007 Octavia with front and rear factory fitted sensors and it works brilliantly. What I can add to the existing knowledge here is:

• No need to find a Golf OPS module, one from an Octavia with the same sensors setup (front & back or just back) as your car will do. I have used 1Z0919475E
• If you can't find new wire terminals to solder everything into a single termninal like the guys are explaining, simply reuse one of the existing sensor wire terminals.
  • Example: Remove 3 of the 4 sensor wires, carefully cut away some 20 cm of the wiring loom textile cover, solder or use connectors to join the wires at least 5 cm away from the termination of the 4th one. This way you reuse the termination of one of the 4 wires when joining them.
• If you are doing this alone, se a chair to test the sensors and the beeping while watching the display.
• Remember to code your new OPS unit for trailer support if your car is equipped with an original tow bar. Find a trailer to do a quick test and ensure the car goes into trailer mode and rear sensors are disabled while the radio shows the right animation with a trailer.
• A good spot to stick the front buzzer is just behind the headlights switch. I glued it with a strong double sided tape. Remove the plastic trim below the steering wheel by popping out the decorative trims, the light switch and 5 screws if I remember correctly.