This is really getting beyond a joke now.....

all 4 tyres are wearing out on the inner edges very quickly.

the rears tare not as bad as the front which are nearly bold on the inner edges.

What options do i have regarding adjustable multi link upper control arms.?

i stumbled across these but due to the nature of skoda being a pick n mix from the bag of Vag im unsure on fitment.

http://www.ebay.co.u...6264#vi-content

http://gruvenparts.c...&product_id=408

http://www.futrellau...m-Set-P133.aspx

http://www.034motors...s6-p-20218.html

any opinions/ideas/suggestions..?

Check full geometry first. Did your car have a service/tyre change etc prior to the problem? If yes, there's always a chance some numpty put a lift under the rear suspension beam and bent it. Used to be a common problem years ago.

Also, is the car lowered and by how much?

Edited 4 February, 201313 yr by dieselV6

Check full geometry first. Did your car have a service/tyre change etc prior to the problem? If yes, there's always a chance some numpty put a lift under the rear suspension beam and bent it. Used to be a common problem years ago.

Also, is the car lowered and by how much?

yes, this has been happening ever since i fitted the kw suspension kit.! the kit lowers the car 30mm.

ive had the car on the ramps god knows how many times to check the rear beam and also ive had 4 wheel alignment via a hunter machine about 3 times, ive attached the reading from my last check.

i know somethings not right as the car feels far too crashy when going over the shallowest pot holes or repair patches on the roads, im hearing crunching and creaking noises from the front, more so from the passenger side. And yes i know lowering the car will give you more road feedback,but trust me this is something else.

ive also just noticed today when turning right just before i get to full lock the steering gets very stiff to turn, whereas if i full lock it to the left its smooth all the way to full lock up until you get that little bounce back feel.

the car is also VERY loud, its like im sat in a drum. the hollow sound is unbearable, and the rougher tarmac only loudens the hollow drum noise.

i dont feel safe driving the car as it seems very twitchy which notice more on the motorway.

also to add im getting what i can only describe as micro vibrations(almost numbs your hand) through the gear stick and steering wheel and abit of a shudder going through the vehicle.

OK, so in static position alignment was checked to be OK (again question, did they check "raised toe" alignment tha tis also needed)

Another question: has the car's track been widened (with spacer adapters), or radically different offset wheels been used? Since wear is on all 4 wheels and on the inside, widened track is one thing that would cause it.

Before adjusting anything, I'd double check all ball joints, with steering at full left and then at full right. It could be you have a play in one or more ball joints that messes geometry up while the car is running. There's a lot of them to check, each arm has 2, there are ones in anti-roll bar and steering rod too..

But to be honest, before throwing lots of money on that problem, I'd go back to stock suspension first. Just to eliminate the risk that that KW setup is dodgy .Plus I can see from its website pictures that it allows far less suspension travel, so will stress all suspension arms far more, the"crashiness" that you experience could be the short travel springs/shocks bottoming out. Front of the Mk1 Superb is quite heavy.

I have good results with front factory sport suspension springs (-20mm, for auto 2.5TDI), rear factory HD suspension springs (+20mm), and a set of Bilstein B6 Sport monotubes all round (at 100k+ miles and they still feel like new). Rear factory sport suspensions springs would have been OK too, and would result in -20mm all round ride compared to stock. But I prefer slightly raised rear suspension as it makes car more stable at high speed and allows to load more stuff in the boot / on towbar.

I have spent money on Koni shocks and Eibach springs in the past (on the Octy), and would not do it again. Initial ride was good, but Konis rusted through after ~5 years/60k miles and the Eibachs sagged further 20mm+ in that time. Bilsteins and factory springs seem to be much more durable, currently nearing 7 years / 100k miles.

Why dont you try this forum, really helpful when it comes to geo issues

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/

i only have limited time the car can be off the road as its my work horse.

to answer a few of you questions,

yes i have spacers fitted (hubcentric) - front 15mm, rear 5mm.

wheels are staggered amg's - front 19x8.5 et44, rear 19x9.5 et44.

i could get the control arms checked but they are All relatively new meyle HD arms.

yes i have spacers fitted (hubcentric) - front 15mm, rear 5mm.

wheels are staggered amg's - front 19x8.5 et44, rear 19x9.5 et44.

That's likely your problem then, both the wheels quoted and the spacers quoted increase track. Try without spacers if at all possible, and stock wheels. If the problem is gone you have the answer

Widened track results in increased camber and increased force on the inside of the tyre as the forces on wheel mount are much larger.

Edited 4 February, 201313 yr by dieselV6

That's likely your problem then, both the wheels quoted and the spacers quoted increase track. Try without spacers if at all possible, and stock wheels. If the problem is gone you have the answer

Widened track results in increased camber and increased force on the inside of the tyre as the forces on wheel mount are much larger.

ok, but surely this day and age there must be a remedy for these issues. do you think the adjustable arm links i posted would help?

The adjustable arm links (posted earlier) should help even out the wear, but I doubt they will fully address all handling problems. You would need to even out, or even over-compensate camber.

I think it is going to be a pain to set up though, even standard suspension without adjustable links is a pain on account of raised toe.

I bet after changing the links the required raised toe setting will also change. I take it you either DIY or have a workshop that likes a challenge

Does anyone happen to know if adjustable top mounts are available for the superb? and audi/passat of the same variant if the top mounts are the same as std..?

ended up purchasing eibach adjustable uppers - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EIBACH-Front-Multi-Link-Arms-Volkswagen-Passat-97-05-/160838186264#vi-content

that will hopefully cure the front camber issue. i guess im going to have to live with the rear issue.

I think there exist nylon shims for the rear camber, Eibach makes them, Passat B5 ones should fit, but double check with Eibach.

I think there exist nylon shims for the rear camber, Eibach makes them, Passat B5 ones should fit, but double check with Eibach.

Found them - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290725383322 .

are these plug and play? i mean would they not interfere with calipers etc?

Haven't used them, just know they exist, perhaps someone else can help?

Im about to go for something like that as well but just don't have time to doit

But yes it will give you more camber for sure

I have spoke to venom motorsport before and they confirmed

It would fit and give you more.....

Go for it

Ok so i thought sod it.! and bought a few things that i thought could do with a refresh -

POLY BUSHES

EIBACH ADJUSTABLE TOP ARMS

ENGINE MOUNTS

SNUB MOUNT

INJECTOR HARNESS

ALTERNATOR PULLEY

COOLANT TEMP SENSOR

THERMOSTAT

CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH

BG244 INJECTOR/ENGINE CLEANER

DECAT PIPE

still thinking about purchasing the n75, n18, n239 valves, but im sure that if you have deleted the egr you can also delete the n18 and n239 valves??.

Hopefully the car will want to behave after all this :think:

How much have you spend on the car so far? £1 million? Almost everytime i logon to here, you've changed, bought or aquired something new for your car... hehe

How much have you spend on the car so far? £1 million? Almost everytime i logon to here, you've changed, bought or acquired something new for your car... hehe

lol, your probably not far off.

well its only got 1 year left as a taxi, ill be thankful when that day comes as me and this car just dont seen to get on no matter how much i throw at it.

i seem to be getting inner tyre wear on the rears to the point that the inner edges on both rears are smooth but the rest of the tyre is near perfect.

So im assuming that lowering the car does effect camber on the rear, which leads me to the question of -

1. Who is lowered all round? mine is lowered 30mm on the kw street comfort kit.

2. Who has wheels the same/similar fitment as mine?

front 19x8.5 et44 with 15mm spacers = et29,

rear 19x9.5 et44 with 5mm spacers = et 39.

3.Are you having these same issues regarding inner rear tyre wear.?

4. Has anyone fitted camber/toe Shims to correct this issue.?

id be surprised to hear that nobody is having issues.

As usual its probably bad luck finding me.

I guess the Superb, like many cars, prefers modding in a way that stock configuration is more or less kept, but the components are replaced for higher quality ones. Suspension mods I did to my car are not visible unless you look for them, and mostly done using parts that were once factory fit. In the long run, it works out to far less hassle.

Still, perhaps rear camber still needs fixing? Have you had these camber shims fitted?

Have you had these camber shims fitted?

No V6 tis why im asking. Hopefully someone out there has fitted shims as i see there are many folk with large wheels along with lowered suspension.

Hi

Im running 18" 8.5j et35 front

___________ 18" 9.5j et35 rear

And lowered on JOM coilovers (very low)

Took it to wheel alignment people and they have only done front toe , thw rest they said can't be adjusted

....

Was thinking of going for rear shims to get more camber

But this means more £ spending which I don't have right now

Hi

Im running 18" 8.5j et35 front

___________ 18" 9.5j et35 rear

And lowered on JOM coilovers (very low)

Took it to wheel alignment people and they have only done front toe , thw rest they said can't be adjusted

....

Was thinking of going for rear shims to get more camber

But this means more £ spending which I don't have right now

i dont want more negative camber, i need to add a little positive camber to the rears. ive purchased a pair of rear camber shims and am looking for someone that is familiar with them to fit them for me.