jacking point failure; advice please?

[bomski]

Well after a successful coolant swapout and getting the car back on the ground; I gave the car a turnover and a little revs... only to find that i popped one of the air charge hoses (securing clip wasn't in lock properly)

Went to put the car back in the air using the standard scissor jack (a.k.a. the widowmaker) and boom...

After a lot of cursing and swearing, and a few deep breaths being thankful I wasn't under the car... does anyone have some good advice as to what's the best course of action to repair this...?

[FriendlyFire]

It's hard for me to see, but that looks to be forward of the jacking point. There is an arrow marking the point. It's visible on the inner will when you open the doors.

I would suggest a lump hammer and some underseal to cure rt he damage and then change where you jack up.

Costco, for example, do great floor jacks and jack stands at good prices. I would use the rear wishbone mount for jacking and stands. Inward of the damage on the underside of the car there is a small plastic plate held by a couple of screws. I understand this is a jacking point. There is a thread on this forum you could search for relating to Audi sports jacking point mods. Apparently there are plugs that fit in the holes under those plates that take a floor jack.

Hth

[bomski]

Thanks for the advice; I hadn't checked the actual locale of the actual jacking point!

Given that it seems to be punctured; is this an MOT failure?

Am actually off to Costco this week so will snag a decent trolley jack; already have some axle stands!

[mannyo]

I don't think its an MOT failure, but you have punctured a key load baring structure. Water will get in and will rust the inside, the hole needs taking care of ASAP before it rains otherwise things will get a whole lot worse.

Never had any issues with the factory jack, the actual jacking point must 4 inches or so rearward than where you placed it.

[bomski]

I'm off for some underbody sealant at lunchtime; any suggestions as to what i can use to plug the hole? was thinking of removing all the frayed underseal, straightening out the bent parts as much as possible, using some P40 to backfill the hole; then treating it with some Waxoyl undersealant...

Edited 4 March, 2013 by bomski

[FriendlyFire]

Just a suggestion, if there is a hole requiring a plug, then before any filler you might use some expanding foam. It will provide a water seal and support for the filler/sealant.

[bomski]

Just a suggestion, if there is a hole requiring a plug, then before any filler you might use some expanding foam. It will provide a water seal and support for the filler/sealant.

Top suggestion! i've opted for some EvoStik Hard and Fast Metal Putty; coupled with the rust inhibitor, expanding foam and underseal i think i can relax once it's done... glad we're in for a dry week too!

Will post some pics in the guide thread when i complete the job... cheers peeps!

[meta55b]

It would be silly to use expanding foam to seal a hole up in the sill, you would stop an water that gets in from getting out and cause the sill to rust from the inside out.

[m0bov]

Would be better to have it welded up with a patch. Then painted and coated with underseal.

[andyvee]

Don't use foam filler - it will hold water as others have said and you will have a major rust problem..........

[FatblokeVRS]

I would spray waxoil inside if you can get it in without getting it all over the outside. A few taps with the hammer to straighten it out. Maybe some type of hard setting filler to seal it and then a couple of coats of shutz underbody sealant (make sure no waxoil on outside or sealant wont stick).

Ideally strip the sealant back. Weld it up and reseal with shutz sealant.

Dave.

Edited 4 March, 2013 by FatblokeVRS

[meta55b]

You don't put under seal on a sill, you use stone chip. Under seal offers no impact resistance.

[bomski]

Well after another venture under the car; it turns out the pic above doesn't actually show a hole; seems its a bit of the stone shield stuff is casting a wierd shadow (as I quickly looked at it in poor light in my works car park i took it that it was a hole)... I've cleaned down the offending area; applyed some waxoyl (local parts shop was out of stone chip shield); i've got some on back order so will remove the waxoyl i've applied and then put the stone chip stuff on...

thanks again peeps for all your advice; its what makes this place awesome...

[Stevoraith]

Here's a guide I put together for installing jack pads to the Octavia;

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/221240-fitting-s3-jack-pads-to-octavia/page__hl__+jack#entry2616377

[blackspaven]

Just playing devil's advocate, be aware that a lot of people think the jack pad mod should only be used with a four or two point jack to spread the weight. I'm on the fence about doing this (although it WOULD make it handier!), but am opting to stick to the sill jacking point and a puck with a slice cut out instead.

Best to know all the views.

[Stevoraith]

Absolutely, and that is covered in my thread above.

It's up to the individual to assess the risk themselves- I personally think there is no risk but as you say, best for people to be aware of various opinions and decide themselves.

[giandougl]

From the p

Well after a successful coolant swapout and getting the car back on the ground; I gave the car a turnover and a little revs... only to find that i popped one of the air charge hoses (securing clip wasn't in lock properly)

Went to put the car back in the air using the standard scissor jack (a.k.a. the widowmaker) and boom...

After a lot of cursing and swearing, and a few deep breaths being thankful I wasn't under the car... does anyone have some good advice as to what's the best course of action to repair this...?

From your photo you have rust showing from beneath that black sealant.

You will have to clean that off to see how bad the rust has extended,

Looks like it will involve welding to restore then filler to finish off.

Sorry, only my opinion.