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I do not how do you do your maths but it is nothing like mine :D

According to the figures from VAG 2012 Annual Statement out of 4 mill cars sold 75k were equipped with 1.4 twinchargers making it into 1.8%.

Thake that 1.8% into the Fabia sales (for the lack of any other data this transposition can be justified) and you get 4050 vRS sold in 2012 globally. Out of that 5.6% (according to TUV stats) had engine failure eqating to 72 (72.9) cars sold worldwide... Then factor in what eccshill wrote about what constitutes engine failure and the figure will be even lower.

That is rather low in my book.

@cheezmonkhai

The reason is mpg's and emissions to use the "thinnest" oil possible. I want to try at some point 10W-60 Castrol Egde Sport, as M_Sport beemers use and as I used in karting. JerryT here used 5W-40 Castrol but not seen any comments from him

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  • Probably because it's a completely different engine known to be far more reliable.

  • Just by reading this forum I wonder why anyone would risk buying a Mk2 vRS? It's almost like playing russian roulette, ok you may get a one that doesn't use any oil, on the other hand you could be ar

  • Invalidated the warranty ? Skoda technical contacted me direct to apologise about the issues I had had as the REVO software was being offered at certain Skoda dealerships when I bought my car. They k

I can tell you one thing. My car has used around 1.75litres of oil in 5,0k. then I dropped the oil,changed filter to the original VAG one and filled with the correct 5W-30 Castrol Edge Professional Long LifeIII oil. in 1000 miles since it has not used a drop, checked this morning. Mind you, I run in the engine properly, race motor tuners way.

Just wondering, Tesco do their own brand of oil, couldn't see if it had the correct numbers on it (eg 505.01, I'm not sure without looking in the manual), what would happen if this was used for 'topping' up an oil drinker instead of buying expensive stuff to burn? Cheers

To be honest you can dress it up how you like.

But I think a lot of people on here would be woried about owning one out of waranty.

I have come very close to buying on two occaisions, when they first came out, and again 3 months ago. If the boot on the estate had been slightly bigger then I would have bought instead of the Octavia in Feb, in the belief that the new engine was cured. I was still thinking about getting a hatch for swmbo in a few months when her car needs replacing. Now I would be worried about owning one in waranty!!

Are the issues with the thp PSA engine solved with the upgrade to 155 from 150> quite like the DS3 failing that it might be an ST fiesta.

My oil for the Twincharger oil changes was £6.99 a litre in Home Bargain'. 5w-40 Castrol Edge. (VW 502 00/ 505 00)

Oil is not expensive so no point mixing good or not so good IMO.

5w 30 or 5w 40 is fine and if you have a non oil user, thats great.

If you have an oil user, best get it fixed & not try sticking plasters with 'Thicker Oil',

You have a faulty engine not some V8 Classic that likes Classic Oil.

Full support of the terrific Skoda (Volkswagen Audi Group) Customer Services to see you OK if there is a problem.

(get Skoda to provide the oil until they get the fault fixed, they do for others.)

george

My oil for the Twincharger oil changes was £6.99 a litre in Home Bargain'. 5w-40 Castrol Edge. (VW 502 00/ 505 00)

Oil is not expensive so no point mixing good or not so good IMO.

5w 30 or 5w 40 is fine and if you have a non oil user, thats great.

If you have an oil user, best get it fixed & not try sticking plasters with 'Thicker Oil',

You have a faulty engine not some V8 Classic that likes Classic Oil.

Full support of the terrific Skoda (Volkswagen Audi Group) Customer Services to see you OK if there is a problem.

(get Skoda to provide the oil until they get the fault fixed, they do for others.)

george

I'm arranging for mine to go in for a consumption test sometime when I'm not using it, it's eased a little since having a good run on the mainland so I'm in no rush but was just curious, thanks for your reply George :-)

I joined before getting my vRS - and had engine failure at 22k which is most peoples mileage for 3 years (took me 7 months). It used a bit of oil, but so did my Scirocco twincharger (about 1.5 litres for the first 20k, then none). That also had issues, but that was a failing in the VAG parts system, not an inherent fault. Mine was valve failure, which has been observed in TSI engines across the board (seemingly due to injectors) - faulty batch(es) of injectors apparently to blame?

You didn't take any photos of the failed bits by any chance? Bores, pistons, head?

didn't get to see the old engine that was gone before i collected the car less than 3 days later

To be honest you can dress it up how you like.

But I think a lot of people on here would be woried about owning one out of waranty.

Some people are worried about owning one IN warranty as well .... :blush:

PS - Had the oil breather done on mine 2 weeks ago. Up to now, it seems OK but it may be a false reading.

When I received the car, I checked the dipstick and there was so much oil in it, it covered the entire bottom section of it !

I was under the impression (and so is the owners manual) that it should be between the upper and lower section of the hatched area.

Edited by jonny boy

dont know about statistics but im on my second engine and this is drinking oil, what are the odds on getting two duffers???

dont know about statistics but im on my second engine and this is drinking oil, what are the odds on getting two duffers???

Don't know about 2 duffers,but here's 2 words ....

NEVER AGAIN ! :wonder:

  • Author

Rite I'm going to take a hammer to this car of mine, it is going in on Monday for the oil usage test and I have driven another 600 mile since I first posted and the car has used NO oil. I'm pretty sure the car has a personality like kit and is messing with me!!!!!

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2

How did you drive it? Was just pootling along or using the car as it was designed to be used - with a vengence ;)

Last nite I had a prolonged spirited drive back from a killer 2 hr squash session. The day before ( and earlier) I had choppy cold start idle. This morning all gone, perfect cold idle - nothing better than cleaning those sparkies :D.

In general I think people are overreacting and overfilling their cars with oil. The correct oil level on the dipstick is not as per manual - that is too much!

Why I say that? If the correct amount of oil for the engine is 3.6 litres then it will show on the dipstick as per below photo - 2-3mm below the top of the hatched area. I know because I dropped the oil and put in exactly 3.6 ltrs of fresh one. That included oil filter change.

OilCold_23Apr2013_zps9194bb1a.jpg

If you keep filling it in above that level engine will be burning it off as an excess and you will be filling it back in and the only conmclusion will be that it is an oil drinker... I was doing it myself at the beginning...

That is my personal view on things

The car was not designed to be driven in any particular way. You shouldn't have to thrash it to stop oil usage.

How did you drive it? Was just pootling along or using the car as it was designed to be used - with a vengence ;)

Last nite I had a prolonged spirited drive back from a killer 2 hr squash session. The day before ( and earlier) I had choppy cold start idle. This morning all gone, perfect cold idle - nothing better than cleaning those sparkies :D.

In general I think people are overreacting and overfilling their cars with oil. The correct oil level on the dipstick is not as per manual - that is too much!

Why I say that? If the correct amount of oil for the engine is 3.6 litres then it will show on the dipstick as per below photo - 2-3mm below the top of the hatched area. I know because I dropped the oil and put in exactly 3.6 ltrs of fresh one. That included oil filter change.

OilCold_23Apr2013_zps9194bb1a.jpg

If you keep filling it in above that level engine will be burning it off as an excess and you will be filling it back in and the only conmclusion will be that it is an oil drinker... I was doing it myself at the beginning...

That is my personal view on things

I found the same with my first Octy TFSi vRS I'd fill It to the dipstick max then it would drop quickly to mid dipstick and I'd keep refilling. Then once when finding it at the mid dipstick level I didn't have any oil, I then forgot about it and on checking a few weeks later it was still at the same level... I didn't need to put any more oil from then on!

Disagree. It is a high performance motor, it was designed to output 128 bhp/litre of swept volume. To put it into perspective the fire breathing monster of an M3 producing 414bhp from 3999cc produces a meager 103.5 bhp/litre of swept volume...

ANY engine if not taken through its paces on regular basis will coke up and will be down on performance. Those deposits usually lead to higher oil consumption eventually. If you bought a vRS and are not willing to run it as she needs to be run then I dare say you bought a wrong car. 1.6 105PS diesels are excellent as many members will testify here :). Believe it or not it even be mapped ;):D.

Petrols are not well suited to steady driving by the sheer nature of them. Petrol injectors work ar 2-4PSi where diesels run at 2000PSi! Easy to to keep the diesel ones clean. Diesels run extremely lean in cruise mode and petrols are not able to unless Stratified Injection is used, which complicates intake manifold desing - Geroge linked to threads where vacuum actuator fails and whole manifold has to be replaced.

I never thrash my car either, I just drive it the way it was designed to be driven :)

This is a daft idea, but for all the effort must be worth checking.

How long is the Dipstick that came with your vRS?

Just because we all trust that they are manufactured and installed in the engine and read correctly.

(I have bought used cars or cars with replacement engines with totally the incorrect dipstick stuck in the engine.)

This is dipped cold with 3.7 litres of 5w 40 in and when cold with the car on the flat, it is right up to the top orange marker.

I will check it later as per the Hand Book and it will be at the top of the Cross hatched area.

george

If that was true Jabo they would put something in the manual saying rev this engine to avoid oil woes

whether the man speaks the truth or not, doesnt help us that show no oil on the dipstick, now thats never normal regardless of how you drive it

Edited by the mad monk

http://www.evo.co.uk...n_polo_gti.html

It should not come down to the luck of the draw if you get a drinker or not. IMO

'Volkswagen Audi Group' have known of the failures from the first cars hitting the road.

Re

the Manual.

Is there a new Published Owners Manual for the Fabia since 2010, when the vRS cars was not yet being driven by customers?

The translations to English of the Skoda Manual is not good IMO.

The oil checking procedure in the Skoda Manual is worded differently from the VW one for the same engines.

The thing about the CAVE engine is that VAG should have learned by now the problems owners are having.

THe CAVE engine has now been replaced by the CTHE engine and customers are still having problems.

re

Checking the Oil level in a vRS Twincharger.

Different Skoda Dealership Technicians seem to check and sends cars out with varying oil levels and oil showing on the stick.

Just running the correct level and being aware if that drops differently from expected to how the vehicle is used,

is a start to getting to the bottom of things.

george

If that was true Jabo they would put something in the manual saying rev this engine to avoid oil woes

That would be good if they did... there's only one manual issued for all Fabia models... there're sections there dealing with particular model differences but only one short paragraph re running in etc. It is pretty obvious that oil chuggers need different running in than petrols, just by the virtue of different rev ranges.

If there's no oil on the dipstick there are two possibilities, your motor drank it all up or your dipstick is too short :). Too low oil level to the extent where oil pickup is not possible for recirculation triggers oil pressure alarm as this is terminal. before that you have yellow oil light informing you that oil level is low.

For me it doesn't matter where it shows on my dipstick. What matters is put in the correct 3.5 ltr of oil in and read hot oil level after it got to temp. It was 2-3mm below the top of the hatched area. To me this indicates where the correct oil level on the dipstick is and that's it.

As stokey wrote, I now believe people put too much oil in their cars, it is being burned down to the correct level, they top it up again and ad infinitum vicious circle continues. Thing is, overfilling with oil is much more dangerous that having bare minimum. If valve guides are covered with oil it will be getting into the combustion chamber no matter what you do…

there is no perfect seal to valve guides except from specialist silicone compound but this is expensive and needs head rebuild.

This is a daft idea, but for all the effort must be worth checking.

How long is the Dipstick that came with your vRS?

Just because we all trust that they are manufactured and installed in the engine and read correctly.

(I have bought used cars or cars with replacement engines with totally the incorrect dipstick stuck in the engine.)

This is dipped cold with 3.7 litres of 5w 40 in and when cold with the car on the flat, it is right up to the top orange marker.

I will check it later as per the Hand Book and it will be at the top of the Cross hatched area.

george

George, I will measure my stick for you ;).

I'd find absolutely gob smackingly astonishing if this was the case, however, not so hard to believe in such possibility knowing how much rubbish Skoda "techs" can sometimes drown us in...

Also, from your experience you always had different cold and hot readings. I always had exactly the same readings no matter cold or hot... As you suggested, this might be a difference between CAVE and CTHE motors - ETKA check should confirm sump part numbers. IIRC CTHE had changes to the lube system compared to CAVE, but I think it was with the oil pump or thereabouts...

Here it is, a respectable 22"!

Dipstick_sml_zps050a9678.jpg

Nice.

that will be the total length, end to end?

Because mine is 22" ish, actually. 560mm

But the important length is from the top stop. to the bottom. 50o mm.

Top Stop to the top of the Cross Hatch is 475mm , 490mm to bottom of cross hatch.

They should all be the same, but just wanted to be sure.

george

How did you drive it? Was just pootling along or using the car as it was designed to be used - with a vengence ;)

Last nite I had a prolonged spirited drive back from a killer 2 hr squash session. The day before ( and earlier) I had choppy cold start idle. This morning all gone, perfect cold idle - nothing better than cleaning those sparkies :D.

In general I think people are overreacting and overfilling their cars with oil. The correct oil level on the dipstick is not as per manual - that is too much!

Why I say that? If the correct amount of oil for the engine is 3.6 litres then it will show on the dipstick as per below photo - 2-3mm below the top of the hatched area. I know because I dropped the oil and put in exactly 3.6 ltrs of fresh one. That included oil filter change.

OilCold_23Apr2013_zps9194bb1a.jpg

If you keep filling it in above that level engine will be burning it off as an excess and you will be filling it back in and the only conmclusion will be that it is an oil drinker... I was doing it myself at the beginning...

That is my personal view on things

See that picture of the 'supposed' level, well when mine came back from the dealers you couldn't see the filed off area :giggle:

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